Ascent Passport

1 Region — Altai Republic, North Chuya Range 2 Peak — Kyzyltash 3486 m via the northwest slope icefall 3 Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent. 4 Route characteristics — ice and snow. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain of the main part 480 m, route length — 740 m. length of sections

• 5th category of difficulty — 110 m.
• 4th category of difficulty — 190 m average steepness of the main part 55°

6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 74

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REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN THE CLASS OF "TECHNICALLY COMPLEX" CLIMBS Peak MaaShey-Bash via the northwest wall. Altai. (5B + 1 - approximately) Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the Soviet State. Team of the Leningrad City Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations of the RSFSR. 1967.

1. Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the climb object.

Peak MaaShey-Bash (4200 m) is the highest point of the North-Chuya mountain node ("Bish-Murdu"), one of the most picturesque regions of Mountainous Altai. The node is formed by the North-Chuya ridge, stretching in a latitudinal direction between the rivers Chuya to the north, Karagem and Chegan-Uzun to the south. The MaaShey-Bash massif is located in the western part of the ridge. Its northern slopes give rise to the MaaShey glacier, the second longest in Altai (10 km). The MaaShey-Yul river flows out of the glacier and runs north until it meets the Chuya. To the east of MaaShey, the North-Chuya ridge is composed of the peaks Karagem, Bars, Tamma, Burvestnik, UPI, and Snezhnaya. The northern spur of the ridge at peak Burvestnik separates the MaaShey and Ak-Tru glaciers. MaaShey-Bash drops to the north with severe walls that capture the attention of climbers. The classified route (4B) to the summit follows the northern ridge, which separates the Left and Central MaaShey glaciers. Routes on the northeast wall (snow and ice, with small rocky outcrops) are objectively hazardous due to the hanging snow cornices above. Their formation is likely facilitated by heavy precipitation and strong southwest winds this year.

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Ascent Passport

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
2. peak Nadezhda, from Maashey cirque via col Nadezhda
3. proposed route 3A cat. diff., presumably first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain — 633 m. Route length — 2040 m. Section lengths: | | | |

Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Maasheyskoe gorge, 1.2
2. Obzornaya via the northern slope. Height 3150
3. Proposed category 1B (route previously climbed)
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference 300 m. Route length 860 m. Average steepness of the main part 26°, total route 21°.
6. Pitons used: not used.
7. Climbing hours — 4.5 (from foot to summit).
8. Leader: A. Drakin — Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: N. Astafurova — 3rd sports category, V.

As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate №1 Re­gion — Re­pub­lic of Al­tai, Se­ver­no-Chuйsky ridge Moun­tain — Snezhnaya 3800 m via the cen­ter of the north­west slope Sup­posed — CA cat. dif., first as­cent. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route — ice and snow. 5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route: dif­fe­rence in height of the main part 540 m, length of the route — 870 m. Length of sec­tions 4 cat. dif. — 340 m, 3 cat. dif. — 360 m, 2 cat. dif. — 170 m. Av­er­age steep­ness of the main part — 45° 6. Used on the route: ice screws — 80 7. Num­ber of mov­ing hours — 7, days — 1. 8. Leader: Iv­liev An­drey Vla­di­mi­ro­vich 1st sports rank

The summit of Spasatel via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, 1.2

Passport

1. Category: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Spasatel peak, via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel, ice-snow.
4. Proposed — category 3B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 420 m; length — 730 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty — 10–15 m. Average steepness of the route — 30–35°.

ASCENT

To v. SHAVLA-12 from the Abul-Orek pass (approximately 36 km tr.). Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition.

Group Composition

1. Bunyaeva V.S. 2nd sports category
2. Kuznetsov N.A. 2nd sports category
3. Achkasov Yu.I. MS
4. Parshennikov A.A. 2nd sports category
5. Sannikov A.I. 2nd sports category Group Leader: BUNYAEVA V.S.

Route Description

PASSPORT

1. Class. Second ascent. (First ascent was made by V. Maltsev's group in 1999.)
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Rossiya XX veka peak via NE ridge.
4. Proposed category: 2B.
5. Height 3100 m, elevation gain 550 m, length 1180 m.
6. Pitons: 6 ice screws.
7. Moving time: 6 hours from glacier to glacier 12 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. Overnight stays: not required.

Ascent Record

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Range, Korumdu valley, 1.2
2. Rakhimova and Sibiryakova peaks via the south slope of the southeastern counterfort, 3823.1 m. Coordinates: southern summit — 50°06′43.7″ N, 87°39′46.9″ E, elevation 3855 m according to the navigator, 3823.1 m on the map. northern summit — 50°06′52.0″ N, 87°39′45.3″ E, elevation 3845 m according to the navigator, distance between the summits — 250 m.
3. Proposed — 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice and snow.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT, ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT KZYLTASH 3486 M VIA THE ICE SLOPE OF THE EASTERN PART OF THE NORTH-WEST WALL, CATEGORY 3B COMPLEXITY FOR THE PERIOD MAY 4, 2022

I. Ascent Passport