PASSPORT

1. Class. Second ascent. (First ascent was made by V. Maltsev's group in 1999.)
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Rossiya XX veka peak via NE ridge.
4. Proposed category: 2B.
5. Height 3100 m, elevation gain 550 m, length 1180 m.
6. Pitons: 6 ice screws.
7. Moving time: 6 hours from glacier to glacier 12 hours from base camp to base camp.
8. Overnight stays: not required.
9. Leader: Drakin A.V., Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: Mokhova V.M., 1st sports category; Shlyakhovoy A.A., 2nd sports category.
10. Coach: Drakin A.V., category I.
11. Date of ascent: July 28, 2000.
12. Organization: Barnaul Alpine Club. www.alpfederation.ru↗

Rossiya XX veka peak via NE ridge

From the base camp located in the middle reaches of the Karabak river, move along the river, bypassing the lakes, to the glacier tongue (2.5–3 hours). Approach the eastern slope of the NE ridge of Rossiya XX veka peak via the glacier. A couloir is visible in the lower part of the ridge; approach it via large scree. The couloir is straightforward and leads to the ridge. The lower part of the ridge is easy. Move simultaneously with protection via a protrusion. The ridge leads to large scree shelves. Rockfall hazard! The shelves lead to a 20 m wall, which is climbed via an inner corner or a chimney with a plug to the right of it. Movement is alternating. Next follows a series of walls and shelves (category 2B), which are climbed simultaneously with occasional alternating movement. The series of walls and shelves ends with an ice ridge. The ridge leads to a 200 m snow-ice slope. Move along the ridge and slope alternately with protection via ice screws. Further, there is a snow-ice ridge with a steep 50 m ice pitch. Climb the pitch alternately with protection via ice screws. The snow-ice ridge leads to the summit. Ascent time: 4–5 hours from the glacier.

Descent is via the ascent route.