126. Bu­bis (4428 m) via North Ridge-slope (the route is combined, cat. 2B, fig. 20, 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzina­ga (a group of 4-20 people) to the Tsey-Karaugom pass with an initial bivouac on the North branch of the Tsey glacier or on the Karaugom plateau below the pass is described in route 83. At the pass (when ascending from the Tsey glacier), turn left and approach the crevasse in the North Ridge-slope of Bubis Peak via a snowy slope. Having passed the crevasse over a snow bridge, ascend a steep 120-150-meter ice-snow North Ridge-slope, to the right of the rocky ridge (avalanches are possible - piton belay) with two rocky outcrops, then ascend easy rocks to the summit of Bubis. 2-3 hours from the pass. Descent is via the ascent route. Descent from the pass to the Tsey glacier in the second half of the day is rockfall-dangerous. Duration of the route:

• 3 days. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Di­goria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., “Fizkultura i sport”, 1976.

Traverse Bubis – Songuti, category 4B Bubis, Double Peak (South, North), Krasnoflotets, Krasnoarmeets, 1 2, Tsей-Karaugomsky pass. TsDSA, Uilpatinsky pass, Uilpata, Songuti pass, Songuti.

21. BUBIS — CHANCHAKHI, traverse (combined route, cat. 4B)

Ascent to the summit of Bubis via the normal route (cat. 2B) from the Tsey-Raug pass. Descent from the summit of Bubis along the southeastern snowy ridge to the saddle below the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Ascent up a new slope (40–45°) to the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Descent from the summit of Tbiliza-Mta initially along a gentle (30°) snowy ridge, then down an ice and firn slope (120 m, 70°, piton belay!) to the ridge before a large "gendarme". Bypass the large "gendarme" from the left (in the direction of travel) from the north along a steep (60°) firn slope, followed by an ascent (50 m) onto the ridge. Bypass all encountered "gendarmes" from the right (in the direction of travel) and along a heavily damaged rocky ridge to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass. From the pass, ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi via the normal route (cat. 4B). Descent from the summit of Chanchakhi to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass via the normal route (cat. 4B). When traversing the summit of Chanchakhi in full, the category of the Bubis—Chanchakhi traverse is 5A (approximate).

V. Burjula via Eastern Edge, 4A cat. diff.

R0–R2 100 m 35° 2 R2–R4 120 m 40° 3 R4–R6 100 m 40–45° 3 R6–R8 150 m 45–50° 4 R8 180 m 40° 3

Burevestnik-Tseyskiy

The rocky tower of the summit is located between Malaya Songuti to the west and Spartak-Tseyskiy to the east. The summit is technically simple, with only one route laid by V. Tsiruk and V. Markarov in 1953. 159. Burevestnik-Tseyskiy via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2B, Fig. 33). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac at the sites near Turye Lake under the Maly Songuti glacier is described in route 156. From the bivouac, ascend via the scree, then via the Maly Songuti glacier in the direction of the col between the summits of Malaya Songuti to the right and Burevestnik-Tseyskiy to the

ASCENT REPORT

I. Climbing type: rock climbing 2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Tsey Gorge 3. Proposed difficulty category: 2A 4. Peak 3960 (p. 10. Vizbor) via NW ridge 5. Elevation gain: 960 m Average slope: 30° 6. Pitons driven: 2 7. Total climbing hours: 9 hours 8. Number of nights spent: none

Route Description

From the sites under the buttress, along the talus shelves in the direction of the buttress with a large sharp ledge (150 m). The ascent to the buttress begins along a wide internal angle ("live" stones - belay) through rocks of medium difficulty. Further on, along simple rocks, bypassing the large sharp ledge of the buttress on the right side. Here is the control cairn. From the control cairn, traverse to the right with an exit to a small site under a 40 m slab-like wall. Along the 40-meter wall (pitons belay, key point of the route). Ascent to the buttress to a large boulder lying separately, which is bypassed on the right. Further on, along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the buttress in the direction of the "triangle" formed by the depression in the buttress. The "triangle" is bypassed on the right along simple rocks ("live" stones). Further ascent to the buttress and along rocks of medium difficulty (belays through ledges) with small walls upwards in the direction of the saddle between the buttress and the ridge of Peak Vils. On the saddle, there is a large site (there is a place for a tent). From the site upwards along the talus (there may be snow) ascent upwards and to the left (150 m) in the direction of the destroyed north-western edge of Peak Vils, representing 3 large "gendarmeries". The "gendarmeries" are bypassed on the left along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the couloir ("live" stones, belay). From the third "gendarmerie", exit along simple and medium difficulty rocks ("live" stones - belay) to a large snow site under the summit. From it, along the talus (possibly snow-ice) slope, ascent to Peak Vils. Estimated time to complete the route is 6–8 hours. Descent along the ascent path. From the large boulder lying separately on the buttress, 40 m rappel. Descent along the South ridge of Peak Vils, category 2A, is also possible.

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

Report

ON ASCENT TO PIK Vil'sa VIA NORTH-WEST EDGE, 5A CAT. DIFF. TEAM OF MGS DSO "ZENIT" LEADER V. Tyninkin Moscow 1972

Brief Characteristics of the Ascent Area

Tsey region is one of the main alpine centers in the Caucasus. It is distinguished by an exceptional variety and beauty of gorges. The height of the peaks in the region is over 4000 m. The highest point of the region, Mt. Uilpata, has a height of 4648 m. The height of Pik Vil'sa is 4100 m. Most routes are combined, significant glaciation of the region (Tsey and Skavish glaciers) determines the presence of complex snow and ice sections on the routes. The weather is comparatively unstable. This to a certain extent complicates ascents.

Appendix No. 2 to the Unified Requirements for the Report for Classification REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK VILSA VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, 5A CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY by a team from RSO-Alania from 3:00 to 5:00 September 2024

I. Ascent Passport

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: