- Bubis (4428 m) via North Ridge-slope (the route is combined, cat. 2B, fig. 20, 29).
The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (a group of 4-20 people) to the Tsey-Karaugom pass with an initial bivouac on the North branch of the Tsey glacier or on the Karaugom plateau below the pass is described in route 83.
At the pass (when ascending from the Tsey glacier), turn left and approach the crevasse in the North Ridge-slope of Bubis Peak via a snowy slope. Having passed the crevasse over a snow bridge, ascend a steep 120-150-meter ice-snow North Ridge-slope, to the right of the rocky ridge (avalanches are possible - piton belay) with two rocky outcrops, then ascend easy rocks to the summit of Bubis. 2-3 hours from the pass.
Descent is via the ascent route. Descent from the pass to the Tsey glacier in the second half of the day is rockfall-dangerous.
Duration of the route:
- 3 days.
Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., “Fizkultura i sport”, 1976.