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First ascent of Shalbuzdag Northeast Peak (3500 m) via the right bastion gully on the south face, March 3-4, 1998, category 5A.

Ascent Passport

  1. Winter ascent class.
  2. Region 2.10 mountains of Dagestan, Chekhychay gorge, Shalbuzdag ridge.
  3. Shalbuzdag North-Eastern, 3500 m, via the gap in the right bastion of the South wall.
  4. 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference: route — 230 m, wall — 210 m (from 3270 m to 3480 m), average steepness of the wall — 70°, route length 506 m, wall section 246 m, section lengths:
    • 1 — 250 m
    • 2 — 20 m
    • 3 — 38 m
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First ascent of Shalbuzdag North-West (4000 m) via the Western wall terrace, category 3B difficulty level, in Dagestan.

I. Category of first ascent. 2.2.10. Dagestan Mountains, South Dagestan, Shalbuzdagsky ridge. 3. Shalbuzdag Northwest, 4000 m, via the terrace of the West wall, rock route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, category 3B complexity (first ascent attempt). 5. Route characteristics:

  • Elevation gain: 300 m.
  • Length of sections:
  • 2nd category complexity — 550 m.
  • 3rd category complexity — 200 m.
  • 4th category complexity — 90 m.
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Description of a 3A category complexity mountain route to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4142 m) via the Western Ridge in the Eastern Caucasus.

I. The route is combined 2. East Caucasus 2.9. 3. Mt. Shalbuzdag (4142) via the Western ridge. 4. Proposed category of difficulty 3A. 5. Route characteristics a. Height difference: 750 m b. Average steepness of main sections: 40° c. Length: 1340 m. (I category — 580 m; II category — 560 m; III category — 120 m; IV category — 80 m) 6. Pitons driven: - rock: 9

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Shalbuzdag Main (4142 m) via the south wall, difficulty category 4A, Eastern Caucasus.

I. ASCENT REPORT (2nd ascent)

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, northern spurs of the Main Caucasian Range
  3. Peak — Shalbuzdag Main, 4142 m, via the south face
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A
  5. Height difference — 300 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 65 m, average steepness — 63°
  6. Rock pitons hammered in — 9, chocks placed — 26, runner protection loops hung — 8
  7. Number of moving hours — 8
  8. Korenn A.V. 2nd sports category, leader Konovalov Yu.V. 2nd sports category
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First ascent via the SW wall of Shalbuzdag Central 4142 m, cat. 5B, in winter 1998.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class of winter ascents.
  2. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
  3. Shalbuzdag Central, 4142 m, via the center of the SW wall, through the cornice, rock route.
  4. 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 48
  5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 280 m, wall — 150 m (from 3860 m to 4010 m), average steepness of the route — 53°, wall — 77°. Route length — 575 m, wall — 180 m. Section lengths: 2 – 100 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 90 m, 5 – 97 m, including 24 m on artificial climbing holds (ITCH), 6 – 38 m (on ITCH); total climbing on ITCH — 62 m, with difficulty: A1 — 8 m, A2 — 36 m, A3 — 18 m.
  6. Equipment used on the route:
    • rock pitons 34/18
    • including 7 at belay stations
    • chocks 57/40
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Ascent record of U. Avetisyan Peak (3685 m) via the Eastern Ridge, complexity category 3B, Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur Ridge.

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

I. Climbing category — rock. 2. Region, mountain range — Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur mountain range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — U. Avetisyan peak, 3685 m, via the eastern ridge. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B. 5. Route description: height difference — 220 m, length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 5 m, average steepness — 45°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay — 18 (0); rock pitons — 2 (0); ice screws — 4 (0); chocks — 3 (0). 7. Total climbing time — 11 hours.

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Description of the 4A category complexity route via the north wall of the Brothers Alakhanian peak in the Lesser Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock.
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak of brothers Alakhanyan, 3710 m, via the right couloir of the northern wall.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 13 m, average steepness — 50°.
  6. Pitons hammered in: for belay — 41(0); rock — 11(0); ice — 18(0); chocks — 12(0).
  7. Number of travel hours — 9.
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Ascent record of the peak Brat'ev Alikhanian (3710 m) by the right counterfort of the north-eastern ridge, category of complexity 4B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangезur ridge.
  3. Summit, its height, ascent route — peak of the Alihanyan brothers, 3710 m, via the right counterfort of the north-eastern ridge.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 420 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 80 m, average steepness — 65°.
  6. Pitons driven:
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Climbing certificate for Peak Bratyev Alikhanyan (3710 m) via the right edge of the Northern wall, 5A complexity level.

ASCENT REPORT

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent region, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pik Brat'ev Alikhanyan, 3710 m, via the right edge of the north face.
  4. Proposed category — 5A.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 110 m, average steepness — 65°.
  6. Pitons hammered:
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Ascent to the summit of Perednyaya Chotcha via the North-West ridge, category 4B difficulty level, route description and recommendations for climbers.

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

  • right — upwards 35–40 m,
  • then left — upwards,
  • exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further:
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