Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangезur ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — peak of the Alihanyan brothers, 3710 m, via the right counterfort of the north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 420 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 80 m, average steepness — 65°.
6. Pitons driven: for belay — 33/0; rock — 22/0; ice — 2/0; bolt — 0/0; chocks — 11/6.
7. Duration of ascent — 13 hours.
8. There were no overnight stays on the route.
9. Leader — Khachatryan Gagik Norikovich, 1st sports category. Participants:
   • Arutyunyan Suren Gurgenovich, 2nd sports category
   • Tonoyan Hayk Danelovich, 1st sports category
   • Khachatryan Garik Norikovich, 1st sports category
10. Team coach — Tamamyan N.G., 2nd sports category.
11. Date of departure and return — October 13, 1984.
12. Organization — Republican Climbing Club “Aragats” Armenian SSR, Yerevan, Paronyan str., 13.

To the ridge 4A

Peak of the Alihanyan brothers via the right counterfort of the North-East ridge

The route is rock climbing by G. Khachatryan on October 13, 1984, category 4B.

Route scheme:

Peak of the Alihanyan brothers №3

• R0
• R1: 80 m, 40°, ice
• R2: 35 m, 55°, III+
• R3: 20 m, 65–70°, IV+
• R4: 40 m, 80°, V
• R5: 20 m, 60°, IV
• R6: 20 m, 30–40°, III-
• R7: 30 m, 40–45°, III
• R8: 30 m, 60°, IV-
• R9: 40 m, 50°, III+
• R10: 6 m, 10°, II-
• Ridge
• R11: 40 m, 55°, IV
• R12: 40 m, 55°, IV
• R13: 15 m, 40°, III+
• R14: 20 m, 10°, II
• R15: 40 m, 80°, V+
• Gendarme Tooth
• R16: 30 m, 70°, V-; I–III-
• R17: 100 m, 20°, II
• R18: 60 m, 40–50°, III
• R19: 100 m, 30–40°, II–III

Other elements:

• North-East ridge
• West ridge

Explanations to the UIAA scheme

1. Section 1 (ice gully) must be traversed with safety precautions — rockfall is possible.
2. The first crux section 4 (40 m wall) is climbed via a narrow diagonal crack from right to left, located in the middle of the wall (micro-cracks — use petal pitons).
3. The second crux section 15 (40 m wall) is climbed directly, as the apparent passage to the left leads to a smooth overhanging wall.
4. The control cairn is located under the second crux wall (section 14) on the counterfort saddle.

Ascent to the north-eastern ridge of the peak of the Alihanyan brothers. Sections R12–R16.