3. Ascent to the peak of Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass 2A cat. diff. 3610 The path to Kichkinekol Pass see the description of the ascent to Kichkinekol from Kichkinekol Pass. From Kichkinekol Pass:

• Descend down and under the slopes of the peak Kich-Kinekol by traversing snowy slopes in the direction of Chugur Pass.
• In case of difficult snow cover on these slopes from Kichkinekol Pass, descend directly to the Zamok glacier plateau and approach the slopes of Chugur Pass along the plateau. Ascent to the ridge slightly to the left of the pass point — between the right big gendarme and two rocky “sails”. Without going to the ridge between them, move left along a wide grassy shelf bypassing the next gendarme. From it, descend 10 m and bypass the second gendarme along the shelf, after which exit to the ridge. The entire bypass is about 150 m. Belay! From the ridge, directly through the rocky ascent of the ridge and along the ridge with small gendarmes to a smooth gendarme 10–12 m high with shelves. Pass either directly head-on (belay! pitons!), or bypass from the left (if there is no snow and flow ice on the shelves!). After the gendarme, approach the summit tower along the ridge, which is passed along a rocky groove — 30 m. Belay! And exit to the summit.

Kichkinelkol from Talychat Pass, combined, 2B

Route Description

From the ice bivouacs, cross the Sredniy Kichkinelkol glacier plateau to reach the slopes of Talychat Pass, located to the left of Kichkinelkol peak. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Cross via a bridge or the rock shelves of the island adjacent to the left edge of the bergschrund (rocks are heavily damaged, beware of falling stones!). Then, ascend the left side of the snowy couloir, with a steepness of up to 45°, to reach Talychat Pass (beware of stones!). In the second half of summer, fine and loose scree appears in the upper part of the couloir. Traverse close to the Talychat rocks or leftwards via shelves and individual rock outcrops («live» stones!). From the bivouac to the pass — 3–4 hours. From the pass, move to the eastern side of the ridge, then traverse 40 m via shelves, followed by an ascent up two internal corners to the left of the large rock wall R1 to an inclined shelf between R3 and R4. From there, ascend short walls and blocks to reach the main ridge at R5. Alternative ascent from the pass (if there's no snow):

• Ascend an internal corner past the ridge line to an inclined shelf.
• Then, climb a steep wall to reach the main ridge and proceed to R5 along it. From R5, ascend the ridge and slightly below it, which is composed of inclined slabs, to reach the summit. From the pass — 3–4 hours. Descent follows the «Kichkinelkol from Kichkinelkol Pass» route.
• Begin the ascent to Talychat Pass at 5:00–6:00 am.

The peak B. Nakhar 3780 m is located in one of the spurs of the Greater Caucasus Range. The climbing area is characterized by a significant distance between the base camp and the nearest settlement. From Uchkulan, a mountain road goes along the Gondoray valley to the reserve. This road often becomes impassable for vehicles in bad weather. It takes 3 hours to drive from Uchkulan to the reserve. Then the road goes to the Makhar valley, to the right and up to the tourist camp "Globus" and further to the narzan springs, then through a swampy lowland to the logging area, near which there is a large clearing ending with a log across the Makhar River. In good weather, a car can drive right up to the clearing, which becomes impossible after heavy rains. Our car was able to pass along the road through the swamp after five days of excellent weather. From the bridge, the trail goes along the right bank of the Makhar River to a side valley leading to peak Nakhar. From the point where the stream flows into the river, the trail follows the stream and moraine through:

• sheep's foreheads,
• glacier, to the base camp location on a lateral moraine. It takes two days to travel from the bridge to the base camp. This time depends on the amount of gear for the planned number of days. It is convenient to set up the base camp in the upper part of the moraine, where it flattens out noticeably. The route to peak B. Nakhar was first climbed in 1974 by a group from L.O.S.D.S.O. "Zenit" via the northeast wall, category 6B. The team consisted of:
• I. Korablin — captain

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship, Technical Class

2018

Description of the Ascent to Mt. B. Nakhar (3784 m) via the Right Part of the SE Wall (First Ascent)

Proposed category of difficulty: 5A

The route was completed by a team from St. Petersburg

Team captain: Viskov Igor Vladimirovich. Team coach: Timoshenko Tatiana Ivanovna.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

1. Nature of the Ascent

1.1. Class of ascent — rock climbing. 1.2. Area of ascent — Western Caucasus, Nakhar region. 1.3. Peak — B. Nakhar, 3780 m, northwest wall (B. Koralin route). 1.4. Category of complexity — 6B. 1.5. Number of pitons driven: 1) for belaying — 23; 2) for creating artificial climbing holds (ITCH) — 5; 3) rock pitons — 23; 4) ice pitons — 0;

Report on the First Ascent

To Peak 3400 — Peak Raspopova (Western Caucasus, Uzunkol, August 2010) The ascent was made by climbers from Rostov-on-Don with the goal of naming the previously unnamed peak 3400 after Raspopov Sergey Alekseevich, a Master of Sports, a pioneer of Rostov mountaineering, and a dedicated organizer of mountaineering events and mentor to climbers in the Rostov region.

Contact Information

All inquiries related to the report should be directed to:

• 344029, Rostov-on-Don, ul. Pervoy Konnoy Armii, 4a
• Club of Tourists and Climbers "Planeta"
• Phone +7 (863) 242–35–10, Phone/Fax +7 (863) 223–86–12
• http://www.club-planeta.ru
• e-mail: clubplaneta@aaanet.ru

ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF PELYCHACHAP from the west — I.6Б.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Uzunkol Valley. Section number in the 1999 classification table - 2.3
2. Trapezia Main via SE wall (3743 m).
3. Proposed 5B category of difficulty. First ascent.
4. Route character - rock.
5. Height difference: from the assault bivouac to the summit: 580 m wall section: 350 m.
6. Length wall section: 430 m.

2. Ascent to the summit of Filtr via the northwestern edge Cat. 3B See the path to the bivouac in the description of the Cat. 2B route From the bivouac:

• along the stream on the right-upwards, under the rocks of the NW edge of Filtr peak;
• traverse the snowfield to the right-upwards and then along the slabs and "ram's foreheads" to the gorge (in rope teams!);
• from the gorge, exit to the snowy slope (35–40°) and along it to the rocky outcrop and beyond it along the snowy exit to the ridge. From here:
• left-upwards 330–350 m to the snowy couloir;
• bypass the couloir to the right-upwards via the rocks to a large slab (protection! Hook!);

M93. Chat-Bashi Western peak via the northern spur

(rock route, category 3A, first ascent by P. Zakharov, 1960) From Chat bivouac, head left towards the talus slopes of Chat-Bashi peak. From here, traverse diagonally up and to the right at an angle of 35-40° to reach the western ridge of the peak. If you ascend too high along the ridge, the descent into the cirque of Chat pass will be challenging, involving rappelling down steep walls and rock fractures. After descending to the cirque via simple slopes, ascend to the pass via snowy and talus slopes. From the pass, descend to its eastern side and approach the base of the northern spur via a snowy slope - it's the right-hand spur relative to the large couloir that runs from the summit ridge down to the pass. Then, ascend leftwards via ledges and short walls to reach the shoulder of the spur. From the shoulder, follow the ridge, tackling an 80-meter wall (R2, bypass on the left side), a rocky "saw" (R4, ascend directly), and then ascend via rocks to the left of the ridge and a difficult 7-meter wall to reach the main ridge of the spur. Continue along the ridge to a grey inclined slab (R7). Ascend via a crack that leads to a small depression, and from there back onto the ridge. If the slab is icy or covered in snow, ascend to the depression from the base of the right edge of the slab via a section of overhanging rock (tense climbing). Follow the degraded 200-meter rocky ridge to reach the Western peak. The ascent from bivouac takes 7-8 hours. Descend from the peak via talus slopes in the direction of Chat campsite. The descent from the peak to bivouac takes 2 hours.

• initial bivouac - Chat campsite, departure time - no later than 5:00 AM;
• avoid entering the couloir to the left of the route - rockfall and avalanches!
• the route is generally safe from rockfall, except for the lower section before reaching the ridge;