Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Peak — Pik Yunost, 4300 m, ascent route via the South ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 454 m, length of sections with 3–4 difficulty category — 850 m, average steepness 55°
6. Pitons driven: for rock protection — 22, ice — 0, bolted — 0
7. Number of climbing hours — II

133 51 To the classification of Kyrgyzstan mountains Teskey Ala-Too Range Compiled by Veryasov G. FPTI

Location

Novotny Peak is located in the watershed ridge of the Jargylchak spur of the Teskey Ala-Too Range, i.e. the spur that separates the basin of the Malaia (Kichi) and Bolshaya (Chon) Jargylchak rivers. The southern slopes of its eastern buttress are covered with scree, which descends to the Zaporotzky Glacier cirque. The watershed of the Jargylchak spur runs almost meridionally through the Novotny Peak:

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ASCENT DOCUMENT ASCENT DOCUMENT

Category: Rock

Region: TIAN-SHAN, Ugam Range (7.II) Peak: ALTUS Height according to "KMGV-99": 3200 m BARS-I 3800 m First ascent routes and proposed complexity categories:

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category: rock
2. Ascent area: Western Tian-Shan, Sayram-Su gorge (base camp 1700 m)
3. Peak, route: Peak 20 years of Assembly of the People of Kazakhstan 3552 m (20 years of APK), via the southeastern ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B category, rock, first ascent
5. Altitude difference according to altimeter: 852 m
   • total route length: approximately – 3000 m;
   • length of the wall section – none;
   • steepness: on difficult sections up to 40°;
   • average steepness of the wall section – none;

Ascent Log

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height "Slovakia" 3700 m, 3 ascent route - ridge 4. Expected difficulty category - 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 390 m average steepness - 68° length of sections: II–90 m, III–80 m, IV–230 m, V–80 m 6. Pitons driven:

№ 558 p. 12 January 14, 1986 2A category 58 ASCENT PASSPORT I. Ascent class: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Sypuchaya" 3900 m via NW ridge

7.14.15

Mt. Teke (3870 m) via North Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty (from "Nefertiti" campsite) Depart from "Nefertiti" bivouac — 2866 m. Cross to the opposite side of the Terek river, follow its left (orographic) bank downstream to the beginning of the rightmost, straightforward rib, and start ascending to the watershed ridge. Climbing in a rope team is required in the upper third of the rib; simultaneous insurance is used. There are sections a few meters long where alternate insurance is necessary. Reaching the ridge: beware of snow cornices! The ridge consists of severely degraded rocks. Move simultaneously, securing the rope to rock outcrops as needed; there are rock gendarmes on the ridge. All are bypassed on simple to moderate rocks to the right. Ahead lies the summit cairn near a geodetic trig point. From the summit, a panoramic view to the southwest is available. Western slopes are talus. Eastern slopes drop steeply with rugged ribs and couloirs. Descent: — Retrace the ascent route across the massif; — Then descend into a broad snow couloir between Mt. Teke and "4011" (35 let Pobedy);

ASCENT LOG 23

1. Type of ascent: rock climbing
2. Area of ascent: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge, Archa-Kanysh gorge
3. Peak, route: p. 4300, via the center of the Eastern wall (1st left)
4. Difficulty category: 5B / 2nd ascent /
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 750 m

Ascent made on Peak "Krugozor" (conditionally) 4000 m

1. Class: Technical
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay
3. Ascent route: p. 4000 m (Krugozor) via the northern ridge
4. Ascent characteristics: Elevation gain 600 m. Length of difficult sections 200–200 m
5. Pitons driven: rock 16 pcs.
6. Number of climbing days: 1
7. Number of climbing hours: 12
8. Number of nights: —
9. Team name: s/k "Polytechnic"

32. Western summit of Elbrus via the Western shoulder (route category 2B, fig. 8–10). From the village of Terskol, ascend first along the road, then along the trail on the right side of the Azausue valley and, after 4 hours, reach the initial bivouac at the Old Panoramic Viewpoint (Stary Krogzor) located on the southernmost (southeastern) spur of the Elbrus massif. From the Panoramic Viewpoint (departure at 2–3 am) turn left and via the moraine, and then along the Maly Azau glacier, reach the snowy plateau. Across the plateau (covered crevices!), then along a small, gently sloping snowy slope, reach the rocky ridge to the right (north) of the Khotiu-Tau pass and the Nameless avalanche glacier descending into the Ullukam valley. From the Old Panoramic Viewpoint, 4–4.5 hours. Here, turn right and along the simple rocks of the ridge, reach the rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the avalanche glacier. Traverse this ridge and along simple, in places moderately difficult, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge, ascending in the direction of the Western shoulder, reach the snowy ridge. Along the sharp (cornices!), then wide snowy ridge, ascend to the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. On a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder — bivouac. From the Khotiu-Tau pass, 3–5 hours. From the saddle, ascend northeast along the snowy fields with gradually increasing steepness, traverse left to avoid the Western summit of Elbrus and reach below the northwestern rocky ridge of the Western summit. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow beside the rocks — a steep ascent to the Western summit of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder, 5–6 hours.