Ascent Log
I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height "Slovakia" 3700 m, 3 ascent route - ridge 4. Expected difficulty category - 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 390 m average steepness - 68° length of sections: II–90 m, III–80 m, IV–230 m, V–80 m 6. Pitons driven: rock - 22 chocks - 20 bolted - 7. Duration - 6 hours 8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics - none 9. Full names of participants and their sports qualification: Melnikov V.G. - 1st sports category Rezaev I.V. - 1st sports category Pismenny S.V. - 1st sports category Rafikov Sh.R. 10. Coach - 11. Date of ascent and return - September 12, 1989 12. Organization - SKF "Altex"
V. Slovakia
R11 90 m, 35°–40°, 1 R10 10 m, 80° R9 20 m, 65°, 4- R8 40 m, 75°, 4+ R7 80 m, 60°, 3+ R6 5 m, 80°, 4+ R5 35 m, 65°–70°, 4- R4 5 m, 90° R3 65 m, 65° R2 20 m, 95°–80° R1 110 m, 70°–75°, 4+
Brief description of the route
The "Slovakia" peak is located in the Ugam ridge (Western Tian-Shan), southwest of the peak "Sairam" - the highest point of the area.
From Chimkent city, take the asphalt road to the Kask-Su settlement and then the dirt road along the Sairam-Su river to the base camp (see the area map).
From the base camp, follow a good trail along the Kergely river for 4.5 hours to reach the overnight stay site near the upper lakes.
Then, follow the wide moraine leading to the Kergely glacier (stay on the left side) to the start of the route (1.5 hours).
Descend from the peak along the 12th ridge to the saddle, then move left and down to the upper lakes.