Ascent Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Region 2.10, Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
3. Shalbuzdag Central, 4142 m, via the center of the SW wall, through the cornice, rock route.
4. 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 48
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the route — 280 m, wall — 150 m (from 3860 m to 4010 m), average steepness of the route — 53°, wall — 77°. Route length — 575 m, wall — 180 m. Section lengths: 2 – 100 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 90 m, 5 – 97 m, including 24 m on artificial climbing holds (ITCH), 6 – 38 m (on ITCH); total climbing on ITCH — 62 m, with difficulty: A1 — 8 m, A2 — 36 m, A3 — 18 m.
6. Equipment used on the route:
   • rock pitons 34/18
   • including 7 at belay stations
   • chocks 57/40

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

I. Climbing category — rock. 2. Region, mountain range — Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur mountain range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — U. Avetisyan peak, 3685 m, via the eastern ridge. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B. 5. Route description: height difference — 220 m, length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 5 m, average steepness — 45°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay — 18 (0); rock pitons — 2 (0); ice screws — 4 (0); chocks — 3 (0). 7. Total climbing time — 11 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak of brothers Alakhanyan, 3710 m, via the right couloir of the northern wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 13 m, average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered in: for belay — 41(0); rock — 11(0); ice — 18(0); chocks — 12(0).
7. Number of travel hours — 9.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangезur ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — peak of the Alihanyan brothers, 3710 m, via the right counterfort of the north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 420 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 80 m, average steepness — 65°.
6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent region, ridge — Lesser Caucasus, Zangezur Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pik Brat'ev Alikhanyan, 3710 m, via the right edge of the north face.
4. Proposed category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 110 m, average steepness — 65°.
6. Pitons hammered:

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ALPINISM GROUP ALP/KLUB "KUTH"

Material on the first ascent of the route: "peak Kozelsky via the western edge, category 2B difficulty" The peak "Kozelsky" is located 20 km from the city of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky in a group of three peaks:

• peak "Koryakskaya sopka"
• peak "Avachinskaya sopka"
• peak "Kozelsky" at 53° north latitude.

Ascent plan for peak "Kozelsky"

Traversing Kozelskaya Sopka from northwest to southeast with ascent to Zub Kozelsky via the northwest wall – category 3A (Figure 4)

From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, overnight stay in the Kozelsky Creek valley (see description for Zub Kozelsky – 1). On the right side of the canyon, across the moraine-covered glacier, bypassing a rock massif on the right (in the direction of travel) lateral moraine, exit into a wide snow-ice couloir with a slope of 30–35°, descending from the false pass. Staying on the left (in the direction of travel) side of the couloir, exit to the false pass in 2.5–3 hours. Movement is in teams. In the upper part of the couloir – 5 ropes, alternate belay. It is advisable to wear crampons, as there are sections of dense firn and ice in the upper part. From the false pass – ascent via a ridge leading to the western summit below a large gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left in the direction of travel:

• 3 ropes
• step cutting
• piton belay (it is possible to drive pitons into the gendarme wall) After bypassing the gendarme, exit onto a ridge leading to the western summit of Kozelskaya Sopka via a cleft (1 rope, belay).

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Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area, mountain range: Avachinskaya volcano group
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: Kozelsky peak, 2170 m, left buttress of the western wall, combined
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 1070 m
   • including the crux: 320 m
   • route length: 1730 m

Koryakskaya sopka from northwest to southeast — category III (Figure 6)

From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky along the Yelizovo highway to the 31st kilometer, then turn right towards "5th Stroika" and left from "5th Stroika" along the river through the bridge in the direction of the pass between Koryakskaya sopka and Arik along the forest roads of old logging sites, orienting towards a clearly visible spur leading to the summit, into the valley of a nameless dry river. On foot along the dry river to the lower part of the spur, which begins not far from the pass between Koryakskaya and Arik, at the forest boundary. Overnight stay. Nearby stream and firewood. Time taken to approach — 4–5 hours. From the dry river valley along the northwest spur (landmark — in the upper part of the spur, a plume of smoke from active fumaroles is constantly observed) in the direction of the summit. Rocks of medium difficulty, many gendarmes, most of which are bypassed. Overall steepness of the spur — 40–50°. In the middle part of the spur, three 5–6 m walls are traversed directly with piton belay. From the upper part of the spur, exit along a snow-ice slope (40–45°, 3 ropes) into a small depression near the pre-summit saw (southern edge of the old crater, filled with ice). Second overnight stay. Open areas, strong wind. From the second overnight stay along the pre-summit saw, exit onto the summit dome. Rocks are solid. The middle section of the saw is traversed on horseback (2 ropes). The saw gradually turns into a ridge, which drops off at the base of the summit dome with a 3–4 m wall (rappel). Exit to the summit 2–3 ropes — ice covered with a layer of fine volcanic scree (piton belay).

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

• right — upwards 35–40 m,
• then left — upwards,
• exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further: