1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Chatyn via "Romb" chimneys of the Northern wall (Myshlyaev's route).
4. Difficulty category — 6B.
5. Height difference — 768 m, route length — 1175 m.
6. Length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 575 m. Length of sections with 6 diff. cat. — 515 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 86°.
7. Pitons driven: | rock | ice | protection elements | bolt (used) | | :--: | :-: | :-----------------: | :---------: |

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Central Caucasus
3. Peak Chatyn Main — 4368 m, "по ромбу" North wall (route by L. Myshlyaev)
4. 6B category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 770 m, length — 880 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 83° (3600–4040 m), including 6B cat. diff. — 95° (3825–3860 m; 3935–4030 m)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Chatyn — 4368 m, route along the diagonal of the "diamond" on the North Wall, combined (10. Chernoslivina).
4. 6B difficulty category.
5. Elevation gain — 800 m, length — 990 m, length of sections with 5B–6B difficulty — 560 m, average steepness — 63°.
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Log (Second Ascent)

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Caucasus.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Chatyn Glavny, 4368 m, via the diamond on the North face (Grakovich).
4. Proposed category difficulty — 6B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1000 m
   • average steepness — 75°
   • length of sections: 2 — none, 3 — none, 4–5 — 450 m, 6 — 550 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creating RPE.

Ascent to Peak Chatyn (Main) via the "diamond" on the wall (Grakovich) 6B category of complexity by the AUSB "Shkhelda" team led by M.E. Danilchik as part of the AUSB Championship and KSP of the All-Union Council of the VDFSO trade unions in 1989.

1. Class: technical.
2. Region: Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye.
3. Object: Peak Chatyn Main via the "diamond" on the wall (Grakovich) 6B category of complexity (4368 m)
4. Route characteristics: | Route elevation gain | 795 m. | | :--------------------------------------: | :----: | | Route length | 950 m. | | Length of the "diamond" wall | 435 m. |

239

REPORT

On the ascent to Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak via the northwestern counterfort from August 2 to 4, 1972, approximately category 4B difficulty, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society.

1. Approach to the Initial Bivouac

From the Dzhatugan alpine camp, follow the road along the Adylsu valley. After 300 m, turn right across the river via a temporary bridge onto the Koshey clearing. Then, follow the trail up to the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash glacier and along its ridge to a large rock — 1 hour. From here, turn left and ascend via a steep trail to the Turii Lakes — 40 minutes — the location of the initial bivouac.

2. Geographical Information

Cheget-Kara-Bashi — 3667 m — is the outermost peak of the northern spur of Ullu-Kara. To the east of the peak lies the Bashkara glacier, and beneath the western slopes — a small Cheget-Kara glacier with Turii Lake beneath it — a bivouac site. Several routes to Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak have been established, ranging from category 2B to 4A difficulty. The area around the peak is considered well-explored by climbers; ascent routes are popular among alpine camps in the region. The northwestern counterfort of the peak was first ascended in July 1970 by a group of instructors from the "Elbrus" alpine camp led by N. Korzhov, who rated it category 4B difficulty. This route has become popular among sports groups due to its:

• logical progression,
• safety,

138. Chegetkara via the South-Eastern counterfort (B. Garf's itinerary, category IV).

4. Chotchat Main via the Northeast Buttress - East Ridge

(combined route, category 2A difficulty, fig. 1, 2). From the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) cross the Adyrsu River by bridge, turn right and down, and follow the trail to reach the Koyavgan stream, cross it, and follow the right bank trail, passing through green areas, to approach the right-bank moraine. Along the moraine, bypassing the tongue of the Koyavgan glacier and its broken part on the right, reach the upper plateau of the glacier. From here, traverse the glacier up and to the left (closed crevices) and ascend the steep ice-snow slope to the saddle (cornice) of the long East Ridge of the large Black pillar standing in the Adylsky Ridge between the peaks:

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Baksan Valley, Main Caucasian Range, Donguzorun valley cirque. 2 Peak 3650 m (Stalingrad Battle), via the North Ridge.
2. Proposed — 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
3. The route is ice-snow.
4. Height difference of the route:
   • from the Bezymyanny pass — 400 m;
   • from the bottom of the valley — 900 m; Route length — 900 m; Average steepness of the route — 30°;

ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS HIGH-TECHNICAL CLASS 2024

Report on the ascent of Dalar peak (3988 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder (Yu. Porokhnya Route, 1978), 5B cat. diff., combined. July 29, 2024 – July 31, 2024.

Ascent Passport