4. Chotchat Main via the Northeast Buttress - East Ridge

(combined route, category 2A difficulty, fig. 1, 2). From the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) cross the Adyrsu River by bridge, turn right and down, and follow the trail to reach the Koyavgan stream, cross it, and follow the right bank trail, passing through green areas, to approach the right-bank moraine. Along the moraine, bypassing the tongue of the Koyavgan glacier and its broken part on the right, reach the upper plateau of the glacier. From here, traverse the glacier up and to the left (closed crevices) and ascend the steep ice-snow slope to the saddle (cornice) of the long East Ridge of the large Black pillar standing in the Adylsky Ridge between the peaks:

  • Vnatau (right)
  • Chotchat North (left)

From the saddle, descend the steep ice-snow slope to the Chotchat glacier, traverse it (closed crevices), and approach the right slope of the Northeast Buttress of the East Ridge of Chotchat Main. From the glacier, ascend the steep ice-snow slope to the Northeast Buttress to the right (above) of the small III pillar.

Here, turn right and follow the gentle 180-200-meter ice-snow (cornices) Northeast Buttress to approach the wide IV pillar. Overcome the pillar directly via a 30-meter ascent (piton protection), then follow the long, destroyed, simple rocky ridge. Beyond the pillar, traverse the gentle ice-snow (cornices) Northeast Buttress to reach the snow shoulder of the East Ridge.

On the shoulder, turn right and follow the gentle ice-snow East Ridge of the shoulder (cornices), then ascend the 200-meter snow-covered rocky, местами ост­ro­му and steep (cornices, "live" rocks, protection) East Ridge to reach the summit of Chotchat Main. From the Ullutau alpine camp, 8-9 hours.

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment