Ascent Log (Second Ascent)

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Caucasus.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Chatyn Glavny, 4368 m, via the diamond on the North face (Grakovich).
4. Proposed category difficulty — 6B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1000 m
   • average steepness — 75°
   • length of sections: 2 — none, 3 — none, 4–5 — 450 m, 6 — 550 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creating RPE.

Throughout the entire route, chocks were used.

7. Number of climbing hours — 16:00.
8. Number of overnight stays — none.
9. Full names of participants: Turkevich M.M. — Candidate Master of Sports, Belousov S.V. — Candidate Master of Sports.
10. Team coach: Sirtsov B.G. — Honored Coach of the Ukrainian SSR.
11. Date of departure and return: July 16, 1980. www.alpfederation.ru↗

Protocol

of the разбор восхождения on peak Chatyn Glavny via the diamond on the North face, 6B category difficulty — second ascent, made by the group consisting of:

• Turkevich M.M.
• Belousov S.V.

Attendees:

• Head of training, releasing — Sirtsov B.G. — CMS.
• Head of rescue training — Rusanov V.I. — CMS
• Head of "Elbrus" rescue camp — Ostrovsky V.M.
• Observers — Kedry A.V. and Vidrin V.V.

Speakers:

Turkevich M.M. On July 16, 1980, at 2:00, my partner Belousov and I set out from the overnight stay, on the ridge of Shchurovsky peak, below the Chatyn False pass from the NE, under the wall of Chatyn peak. In the dark, with flashlights, we reached the bergschrund by 3:00, which was in poor condition, heavily broken. It took about an hour to cross the bergschrund and approach the rock wall.

On the ice, we needed:

• many pitons,
• crampons,
• ice axe.

The lower part of the rock wall was iced over, so we had to climb about 40 m on crampons. Climbing the entire "diamond" presented certain difficulties; we had to use RPE. Movement through the "diamond" was alternating, with belay on a double rope. For belay organization, we used pitons, chocks, and loops with carabiners. Throughout the route, control cairns made from bivouac sites and hung under cornices were clearly visible. We retrieved notes from the first ascendants from the upper two cairns. Movement across the "roof" was simultaneous until the summit, except for some sections. We reached the summit at 18:00, where the observers were already waiting for us. Throughout the ascent, we maintained constant radio contact with the observers. We greatly enjoyed the route. It deserves a high category difficulty. I was pleased with my rope partner.

Belousov S.V. This is one of the most challenging routes I've undertaken. Its complex section is very extensive. All 500 m of the diamond are climbed under constant tension. One must employ the entire arsenal of rock climbing techniques. I'm satisfied with the ascent.

Rusanov V.I. The pair completed the route confidently and quickly, demonstrating high mastery, physical, tactical, and psychological preparation for such complex ascents. I believe that the Chatyn "diamond" will not be climbed again in one day for a long time.

Ostrovsky V.M. The guys made a classy ascent, tactically competent; I consider it one of the best ascents in our area.

Sirtsov B.G. The group's ascent is confirmed.

Debriefing led by: Secretary:

Brief explanation of the table.

R0–R1 Crossing the bergschrund, heavily broken, with a very steep upper edge, and approaching the rock wall "diamond" via a steep ice slope.

R1–R2 Beginning of the route to the right of the central chimney, straight up. Initially on monolithic slabs, then the terrain becomes more varied. In the middle part of the "diamond," there are places suitable for overnight stays. Throughout the route, there is a danger of falling rocks.

R2–R3 Exiting the wall onto the "roof":

• heavily broken rocks alternate with ice sections,
• move straight up.

Descent from the summit via the 3A category difficulty route through the Western summit of Chatyn to the Uzhba plateau and further down the Uzhba icefall to the Ikheldinsky overnight stays.