Report on the First Ascent

Jarlam

Via the center of the southwestern wall Bogdanov A.V. Estimated difficulty: 2B 2023

Climbing Passport

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: combined
2. Ascent area: Dagestan mountains
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Adдала-Шухгель Mt., 4151 m, via N ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 850 m
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections:
     • I difficulty category — 590 m

1. Ascent class
2. Climbing area
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Estimated difficulty category
5. Route characteristics
6. Number of pitons driven
7. Number of travel hours
8. Number of overnight stays
9. Names of team leader and participants, their sports qualification
10. Team coach

I. Category of first ascents. 2. Region 2.10, Dagestan Mountains, Bogossky Ridge. 3. Addalashukhgelmeer, 415 m, via the right gully of the North-East face, combined route. 4. Proposed category 3B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 700 m, route length: category 1 - 450 m, category 2 - 450 m, category 3 - 120 m, category 4 - 195 m, category 5 - 15 m, total route length 1220 m, average slope of the gully 45°. 6. Pitons used: rock - 6 pcs, ice screws - 17 pcs. 7. Climbing time - 7 hours. 8. No overnight stays. Overnight stay at the base camp, at TDS "Sulak-Vysokogornaya" (2953 m). 9. Leader: Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Team members: Ivanov Alexander Petrovich, 2nd sports category; Maximov Vladimir Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category; Fomin German Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category.

ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: №2.9 (East Caucasus, Bogossky Ridge)
3. Peak, its height and route: Addala-Shukhgelmeэр East, 3970 m, via the northern counterfort
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 770 m, average steepness — 50°, section duration: R1–500 m, R2–250 m, R3–250 m, R4–220 m, R5–120 m
6. Number of driven pitons:
   • rock: 3
   • ice: 1
   • bolt: –

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: combined
2. Ascent area: 2.9.6 mountains of Dagestan
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Addala Eastern, 4025 m via N ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 800 m
   • average steepness — 50°
   • length of sections: III cat. diff. — 170 m, II — 690 m, I — 450 m
   • 7 ice, 2 rock, 2 screw anchors

Ascent Passport

I. Rock Route 2. 2.96 — Dagestan Mountains (Eastern Caucasus) 3. Ascent to peak 3903 from the SOUTH (first ascent) 4. Proposed category — 2B cat. diff. 548, part 9. 16/4–85 5. Characteristics of the summit: * route length — 1230 m * total height difference — 780 m * average steepness — 40° * length of sections: I cat. diff. 625 m

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification combined
2. Ascent region Eastern Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route (Peak Chkalova (Anchobola)), 4111 m, from the south and along the western ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 1B
5. Route characteristics

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I. Climbing category — Combined 2. Climbing area — 2.9. Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak, its height and ascent route — Bazardyuzi (4466 m) via N ridge 4. Expected difficulty category — 2B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2338 m average steepness — 45° section lengths: I—2500 m, II—200 m, III—70 m, IV—40 m, V—200 m, VI—250 m, VII—40 m, VIII—350 m 6. Number of pitons driven: for belay for creating belay stations

Photo # 2. General view of the route. Shooting point # 2 of the diagram. Shooting height 3800 m, distance 1200 m, lens "Helios-44M" f=58 mm. The photo was taken on June 10, 1985. Peak BAZARDYUZI. 4466 m. PHOTO-1. General view of the peak.

1. Bazardyuzi via the Eastern ridge from the "Kurush" pass — 1B cat. difficulty,
2. Bazardyuzi via the Western ridge from the "Vakhchag" pass — 2A cat. difficulty,
3. Bazardyuzi via the Northern ridge — 2A cat. difficulty,
4. Bazardyuzi via the Northern pillar — 4A cat. difficulty,
5. Bazardyuzi via the Eastern couloir of the Northern ridge — uncategorized,
6. the described route, via the Eastern edge of the Northern ridge.