Description

First ascent to v. Sofia via the western ridge, approximately category 3A. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the Sofia River (orographically) until the confluence with the Ak-Airy River. Then, move left and upwards along the left (orographically) bank of the Ak-Airy River to the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour of movement. The belt of "ram's foreheads" is bypassed from the right along a small stream. Then, move left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. After the meadows, move along the middle talus to the shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy River valley. Here, there is a green, flat clearing with a stream of clear water nearby. A suitable location for the initial bivouac. From the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour. From the initial bivouac, move upwards along the Ak-Airy River across talus to the Ak-Airy glacier. The glacier ends in an icefall, which is bypassed from the right across a rocky outcrop. Then, ascend a snowy slope with a steepness of 35-40° - 150-200 m upwards, exiting onto the glacier. From the initial bivouac to the glacier exit - 1 hour of movement.

PASSPORT

1. Class: combined
2. Western Caucasus
3. Peak Сочи (Sochi) by couloir and D.gr.
4. Proposed 2A category, first ascent
5. Height difference: 483 m, length: 680 m average steepness of the route: 45°
6. Pitons hammered: 0, used protection elements: 3
7. Team's moving hours: 9 hours and 1 day
8. Leader: Ivanchenko Vladimir Alexandrovich, 1st sports category

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit "Peak 3231" (Eastern), made by a group of climbers from the Stavropol region on May 4, 1980, in the Arkhyz mountain range (Western Caucasus), Stavropol region, west of the "Marukh" pass, Sofiysky ridge. The Arkhyz mountain area is located on the northern slopes of the Main Caucasian Range between the Kardyvach area (Krasnodar region) to the west and the "Marukh" pass to the east. The area is entirely within the Stavropol region and is situated at approximately 43° north latitude. North of the Main Caucasian Range lies the Sofiysky ridge, where this unnamed peak with an elevation of 3231 meters above sea level is located. The base camp was set up at an altitude of 1320 meters above sea level, 1.5 km from the "Glacier Farm" on a clearing. From the base camp:

• up along the Sofia River
• to the tributary from the Ak-Ayry glacier
• along which to the right up to the "Barańi lbov"
• then to the right into a wide couloir leading to the firn fields
• up the firn fields to the "Stolichny" pass (3 hours from the camp) The "Peak 3231" summit is a section of the Sofiysky ridge crest (its northeastern part) with two peaks of equal height, located close to each other (200-250 meters along the ridge). Further northwest, the ridge continues with the Mingi-Kyol-Bashi peak. And to the southeast - with the following peaks:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. ASCENT CLASS: Rock
2. ASCENT REGION: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, KTMGV – 2.1.
3. PEAK: "Pik 3231" (Main), its height is 3231 m above sea level, ascent via the South-Eastern ridge through the peak "Pik 3231" (Eastern) from the "Stolichny" pass
4. ANTICIPATED DIFFICULTY: approximately 2A category of difficulty
5. CHARACTER OF THE ROUTE:

• Height difference between the base camp and the peak — 1911 m
• Between the "Stolichny" pass and the peak (Main) — 181 m
• Total route length from the pass to the peak — 845 m
• Average steepness — 40°–35°

41

Description

The first ascent of an unnamed peak with the goal of naming it "Столетие освобождения Болгарии" (Bulgaria's Liberation Centennial), via the "islands" from the north and the western ridge, approximately category 3B complexity. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk residents to Sofia Glacier, exiting under the northern slopes of peak Столетие освобождения Болгарии, located east of Sofia peak — 4 hours. The route passes through four rocky "islands" on the northern slope of the ridge connecting these two peaks. Crossing the glacier, we approach the I rocky "island". Before it lies a 5-meter-wide bergschrund, which is overcome by descending onto a snow bridge that leads to the rocks. The ascent begins with a 30-meter wall at 70–75°. Climbing is moderately difficult, with piton protection. After the I rocky island, a 30-meter snow-ice slope at 45–50° leads to the II rocky "island". It is climbed to the left, as the rocks on the right are covered in glaze ice. The rocks are moderately difficult, with piton protection. In some places, there is glaze ice that does not hinder progress. The length of the II rocky island is 70 meters. At the midpoint of the island is the I control cairn! Before exiting onto the snow, there are 20 meters of gentle rocks. Then, a 40-meter snow slope at 40–45° leads to the III rocky "island". The third rocky "island" is climbed straight up. Its length is 100 meters. The rocks are easy. After the III rocky "island", there is about 100 meters of a steep snow slope. In the lower part, the slope is 50°, and in the upper part, it is 55°. This snow slope leads under the IV rocky "island".

Fig. 71. a – initial part of Route 27 (R0–R3); 1, 2 and 3 – Left, Central and Right ("Hockey player") gendarmes; b – view of the South walls and West ridge of Dimitrov-100 peak (sections R3–R10), partially R11 and R12 – from the West ridge of Bulgaro-Soviet Friendship peak; c – section R11–R12 of Route 27. Photo by V. Bobylyov. View from the North Fig. 70. Sketch of Route 27. Scale 1:3000 Route 27 (Fig. 69, 70). The path to the assault camp "At the lake" under the southern slopes of the 60th anniversary of KChAO peak is described earlier (Route 22). From the base camp "Ice farm" to the specified assault camp – 4–5 hours. The approach path to the beginning of the described route partially coincides with a similar path to Route 26 (3A). From the base of the ascent on Route 26, you need to turn 90° left, towards the saddle between Bulgaro-Soviet Friendship peak and the South tower of Dimitrov-100 peak. There are three gendarmes on the saddle. The direction should be kept towards the base of the junction of the saddle wall and the South tower wall. A couloir descends here from under the right gendarme "Hockey player". The start of the route. Movement on 30–40° snow. From the "At the lake" overnight stay – 2 hours 30 minutes. The beginning of Route 27 coincides with Route 24 (up to R3). Section R0–R1 (Fig. 71a). Along the left part of the couloir (smoothed gneiss granite) 35 m to a convenient reception point (chip, shelter). At the same time, the overhang encountered after 25 m is bypassed on the left with an exit above it. α = 70°. 3 stoppers.

Peak 3226 (Dimitrov-100) Route: via north-west edge Complexity category — 4A cat. sl. (combined) Leader: S. Bernatsky Western Caucasus, Kara-Jash ridge Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3226 (Dimitrov-100) "Via north-west edge 4A cat. sl. (combined)".

Ascent Passport

1. Class: rock
2. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Pshysh River valley.
3. Tokmak (3438 m). Via the South slope and South wall
4. Proposed 4A category difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference: 1318 m. Rock part 390 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 40 m. Average steepness of the key part of the route is 80–85°. Overall route steepness is 35–45°. Total route length (rock part) is 1075 m.
6. Pitons left on the route: rock 6 pieces.
7. Team's climbing hours: nine up, five down.
8. Leader: Plotnikov Alexander Alexandrovich, 1st sports category.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Fisht, 2867 m, via the northern slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 1B
5. Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 1367 m; b) average steepness — 35°; c) length of sections: I — 2400 m, II — 500 m, III — none, IV — none, V — none, VI — none
6. Pitons driven: