R. G. Veryasov, 62

Location and Approaches (4120)

Peak Andizhan is located in the crest of the Peredovoy Ridge between the Ak-Buura and Kyrgyz-Ata rivers on the northern slopes of the Kikik-Alay Ridge. Its southern slopes descend to the Kaldyrama River (the eastern tributary of the Kyrgyz-Ata River). A vehicle usually drives from Osh through Naukhat and past the forestry department to the foot of Mount Mazar (see description of Peak 40th Anniversary of the Soviet Army). Mount Mazar and Peak Andizhan stand opposite each other. In other words, the ascent to Peak Andizhan can be made from the vehicle stopping point.

Ascent Route

From the base camp, we start ascending along a grassy slope. The slope is partially covered with juniper forest. We ascend 300-350 m along the grassy slope on the right side of a couloir. This couloir reaches the pre-summit ridge and is visible from the base camp. It is difficult and dangerous to walk along the couloir itself due to the fine scree and potential rockfall. Then, along the ridge, we ascend another 350-400 m on very fragmented rocks and scree to the beginning of the couloir. We ascend along the couloir on coarse scree to a saddle. The ascent path is 90-100 m, with a steepness of 30-35°. The summit is visible from the saddle. On the way to the summit, there are some rocky outcrops, but they can be bypassed on the left. We approach the summit. The exit to the summit itself is along a monolithic rock, where belaying is necessary. The ascent to the summit on the rock is 6-7 m. Steepness is 35-40°. The entire path from the camp to the summit takes 4.5-5 hours. The descent is along the ascent path to the saddle, and then down the couloir on scree.

94. Beketty Eastern - Main. The route is rocky, category 2A (fig. 5, 87, 95–99). Length - 1600 m, H - 650 m, time - 6–8 hours. The path from the Kyrgyzata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the Beketty Eastern peak - see route 93. From the Eastern peak, descend 100–120 m down the easy rocks of the South Ridge with two 15–20-meter sport descents to the saddle. Along the occasionally snow-covered talus and rocks of the horizontal ridge of the 250–300-meter saddle, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, then along the snow-covered (cornices possible) talus and rocks of the 100–120-meter ridge to approach the 1st Big Gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the right along the talus slope. Behind it, along the talus ridge, approach the 2nd Big Gendarme. Ascend the sharp, straightforward rocky 80–90-meter ascent (insurance) to the Big Gendarme. From the Eastern peak - 1–1.5 hours. From the Big Gendarme, descend 100–120 m down the straightforward rocky ridge to the saddle. Along the wide ridge of the saddle with several straightforward gendarmes, then along the narrow snowy (cornices possible) ridge to the Eastern Ridge of the Beketty Main peak. Along the 500–600-meter easy talus, occasionally snow-covered (cornices), with small 3–5-meter walls and gendarmes overcome head-on on the Eastern Ridge, and along the 60–80-meter gentle ascent to the peak of Beketty Main. From the Big 2nd Gendarme - 2–2.5 hours. Descent along the South Ridge, through the Kukrniksy pass.

SUIChIKTY

East

Day

30. Jyrty via South Ridge The route is combined, category 3B difficulty (fig. 5, 6, 36, 37, 39). Length — 1200 m, ascent — 770 m, duration — 6–8 hours. The path from "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2–4 people) to the initial bivouac by the lake under the Northwest wall of Jyrty peak — see route 23. From the initial bivouac, follow the moraines to reach under the wide scree, possibly snowy (descent) slope of the couloir descending from under Jyrty peak between the South and Northwest ridges, to the right of the Northwest wall of the West pillar. Up the wide scree slope of the couloir with outcrops of destroyed rock islands 800–900 m up to its bifurcation. From here:

• 100–120 m up the right ice-snow steep couloir descending from the saddle of the South Ridge, to the right of the large South pillar. Here, turn left and 100–120 m up the icy narrow rock couloir under the wall of the South Ridge saddle.
• On smoothed rocks of medium difficulty 60–70° with cracks, 40 m up (key location of the route, "live" stones, piton belay) to ascend to the saddle of the South Ridge to the left and above the Big pillar.
• On the saddle, turn left and 120–150 m up simple steep 40–50° rocks with short 5–6-meter walls of medium difficulty ("live" stones, belay) of the South Ridge — to reach the shoulder.
• Further on, by simple gentle destroyed rocks of the 30–40-meter shoulder, approach under the summit ascent and on steep 55–60° medium difficulty rocks of the ascent ("live" stones, piton belay) ascend to the summit of Jyrty. From the initial bivouac — 6–8 hours.

58. Karatash via the Southwest Ridge The route is rock, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 6, 62, 66, 67). Length — 900 m, ascent — 400 m, time — 4–5 hours. The path from the Kyrgyzata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Joldzhilga glacier — see route 14. From the initial bivouac, cross the glacier and ascend the moraine to the Ruchyev Cirque. From here, go left and up along the buried glacier to the first wide talus couloir of the Southwest Ridge of Karatash peak. From the cirque, ascend an 80–100-meter ice and snow slope, then a 200–250-meter wide talus couloir that narrows at the top and becomes a damaged rock couloir (rockfall hazard) to reach the Southwest Ridge. Here, turn left and traverse 450–500 meters of easy, damaged rock on the Southwest Ridge, overcoming numerous short (3–5 m) walls and gendarmes head-on or bypassing them ("live" rocks, protection required), to approach the first pitch.

The trail initially goes along the right (orographically) side of the Suu-Chiktyn River. After 30 minutes, you need to descend down to the river, cross two branches of the Jav-Jjikga tributary fording. Then, continue along the trail on the right (orographically) bank of the Suu-Chiktyn River. The gorge gradually turns to the right and takes a south-north direction. At the bend of the river, it is necessary to ford it to the left (orographically) side and proceed towards the visible terminal moraine of the Suu-Chiktyn glacier. From the crossing point, the summit is visible. The path from the crossing point to the moraine takes 30-40 minutes. Advantages of crossing the terminal moraine:

The rocks of medium difficulty have cracks and ledges on the wall. There were 3 pitons hammered into the wall. The wall is actually the beginning of the couloir. The couloir has many loose rocks, so it is necessary to move carefully, constantly monitoring its upper part. The steepness of the couloir is 40°–60° (it is mainly rocky), the width is up to 5 m. Belays are organized through втулки (bushings), of which there are quite enough. After passing 60–70 m, we come to the second wall. The wall is 30 m long, with a steepness of 65–70°, monolithic, has few ledges and cracks. The first climber needs to be let out on the entire rope. At the end of the wall, there are ledges for organizing belays. Four pitons were hammered into the platform. The wall is climbed along a 5 m shelf that goes to the left at the top, and then along a crack. The place is difficult, and it is necessary to carefully organize the lower belay. Further, the couloir turns into an internal corner — a couloir with rocks of medium difficulty, extending up to 100 m, 65°. The corner-couloir has many ledges for organizing belays. The corner-couloir leads to the third wall, 15 m long and with a steepness of 70–80°. The wall has narrow 10–15 cm shelves, but few cracks, the ledges are smoothed out, and the rocks are like "бараньи лбы" (sheep's foreheads). The place is difficult. Three pitons were hammered into the wall. After the wall, we enter again a rocky couloir, up to 120 m long, with a steepness of up to 60°. The rocks are of medium difficulty, there are good ledges for belays.

89. Traverse of Kukryniksy Severaya - Yuzhnaya The route is rocky, Category 1B complexity (Fig. 5, 87, 93, 94). Length - 2600 m, elevation gain - 630 m, time - 6-7 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alplager (group size not limited) to the Kukryniksy Severaya summit - see route 87. From the Severaya summit:

• descend 50-80 meters down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the South ridge to the col;
• then traverse 450-500 m along the talus with some easy broken rock on the right side of the long ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Glavnaya summit (30-40 minutes from Severaya). From the Glavnaya summit:
• descend down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the 100-120-meter South ridge to the col;
• traverse along the easy broken rock and talus of the 700-800-meter col to approach the North ridge of Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya;
• from the col, ascend the simple, possibly snow-covered, 150-200-meter rock of the North ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya summit (1-1.5 hours from Glavnaya). Descend along the talus slope via Kievyanka pass.

9. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west via Central couloir. The route is combined, category of difficulty 2A (fig. 5, 6, 15, 16, 18). Length — 1200 m, ascent — 700 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. The path from "Kirgizat" alpine camp (group of 2–4 people) to the initial bivouac on the moraine of Kurgan gorge under the Central couloir of Kurgan peak — see route 10. Departure from the initial bivouac at 3:00–4:00. Up the scree slope, then up the wide 35–40° scree Central couloir for 600–800 m (rockfall, protection). Further 300–350 m up the right branch of the couloir, from which exit left to a site above the long rocky Western spur — a bastion dividing the upper part of the Central couloir. From the site, 120–150 m up and right along a 30–35° steep scree slope to the snowy shoulder of the Western ridge. From the shoulder, left and 80–100 m up simple and moderately difficult 40–50° rocks of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, protection) to the summit of Kurgan Glavnaya. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours. The route is prone to rockfall!! img-0.jpeg Fig. 18. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west

53. Osh Main from the southeast via the couloir of the Eastern spur of the Southern ridge The route is rocky, category 2A difficulty (fig. 5, 49, 57, 58). Length — 1300 m, elevation gain — 600 m, time — 3–3.5 hours. The approach path from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the light moraine of the upper circus of the Kurgan gorge — see in the route
54. From the initial bivouac, approach the wide scree, the first southern couloir from the base of the Eastern spur, with a long rocky outcrop in the center. From the moraine, 300–400 m up, on 30–35° fine and medium scree of the couloir, left of the long outcrop, then on simple rocks of the narrow destroyed couloir ("live" stones, protection) ascend to the saddle of the Eastern spur. From the initial bivouac — 1–1.5 hours. On the saddle of the Eastern spur:

• turn left
• on simple and easy, heavily destroyed, gently sloping rocks
• in the upper part — on scree Pass the 400–500-meter Eastern spur or its right side, exit to the scree shoulder of the Southern ridge. On the scree shoulder of the Southern ridge:
• turn right

49. Osh Western from the north via couloir and Eastern ridge-slope The route is combined, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 49, 53–56). Length — 900 m, duration — 2.5–3 hours. The approach path is from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) to the initial bivouac in the Djoldjilga gorge, short of the western walls of the Osh massif, see route 14. From the alpine camp — 3–3.5 hours. From the initial bivouac, ascend the scree slope overgrown with grass, possibly snow-covered, to the right side of the wide ridge of the Scedlovina pass, connecting the Osh massif with the Mazar peak. Here, turn right and along the wide ridge, approach the foot of the snow-ice couloir-slope descending from the saddle of the massif between the North and West peaks, along the western wall of Osh North peak. On the ridge, turn right and ascend the 35–40° snow-ice slope of the couloir for 200–250 meters (rockfall hazard, piton belay) to the scree-covered saddle of the massif. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. On the scree-covered saddle, turn right and ascend the easy, broken rocks, then large simple blocky rocks ("live" stones, belay) of the 60–80-meter wide Eastern ridge-slope to reach the summit of Osh Western. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours.