Shankol via the northern spurs of the North-Eastern Ridge

The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5–7). Length — 1200 m, H — 500 m, time — 5–6 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2–8 people):

• Down the gorge along the highway to the Telman farm.
• From it, turn right to the east to the Shankol village.
• From it, turn right to the south and 20 km up the Shankol gorge road to the pastures and the end of the road. From the alpine camp by car – 1–1.5 hours. Further:
• Along the pack trail along the Shankol River with two long ascents to approach the lake in the upper reaches of the gorge.
• Near the lake, not far from the northwestern slopes of Shankol peak — the initial bivouac. From the end of the road – 3–4 hours. From the initial bivouac:

102. Udmurtia North via the East Buttress of the North Ridge The route is rock, category 3A (fig. 5, 87, 95, 97, 103). Length — 1200 m, height difference — 600 m, time — 5–6 hours. The approach from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 2–6 people) to the initial bivouac on the grassy areas of the Beketty gorge opposite the Eastern walls of the Udmurtia massif — see route 91. From the initial bivouac, a 900–1000-meter ascent up the scree slope, overgrown with grass, on the left side of the East buttress of Udmurtia North peak, leads to a large couloir. Without entering the couloir, exit right onto the East buttress, along it 300–400 m upwards over simple slabs and "ram's foreheads" of the East buttress to the upper rock belt. Steep 50–60° simple and moderately difficult slabs of the belt, 40 m up-left (pitons belay) lead to a scree ledge. From the ledge, up the wall directly, first 40 m over moderately difficult rocks (pitons belay), then 40 m over rocks of moderate and above-moderate difficulty (key point of the route, pitons belay) to a scree ledge. From the ledge, 40 m up-right over steep simple and moderately difficult slabs (pitons belay) and along a 15-meter internal corner, exit onto the summit North Ridge. Here turn left and along the gentle, simple 250–300-meter North Ridge ascend to the summit of Udmurtia North. From the initial bivouac — 5–6 hours. Descent:

• To the west over simple slabs and scree of the West Ridge-slope.
• Then from it left and down into the Achiktash gorge. To the right of the West Ridge is a hanging gorge, ending in rock drops. Descent is also possible via the South summit:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Pamir-Alay, Kisik-Alay ridge, northern spur.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: 60 let UASSR Yuzhnaya, 4150 m, via the eastern ridge, rock climbing.
4. Proposed complexity category: 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 600 m; length of sections with 3–4 complexity category — 125 m; average steepness — 45–50 °.
6. Number of pitons and placements of protection: 22/0.

Brief Description of the Route Approach

The path from the base camp at the confluence of the Kurgan and Suichikty rivers follows the road down to the lower bridge. After crossing the bridge over the Kyrgyz-Ata river, follow the trail leading into the Beketty gorge. Continue along the trail that runs along the bottom of the gorge until a steep ascent to the moraine. Then proceed along the moraine to a scree slope, orienting towards the "finger" gendarme. It takes 3.5 hours to walk from the base camp to the start of the route. 4150 m (60th anniversary of the UASSR) via the E ridge. Category 3B difficulty, 700 m, 45°, 21 pitches, 12 hours. 6/XI-80. R. Galeev, S. Bochenkov, S. Suntsov, V. Teletsyn. Map of the ascent area Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

The ascent class is technical. The ascent area is the Gissar Ridge, Igizak area. 3700 m. No. 10. Peak, its height, route - p. "Bivachnaya" 3320 m via the Southwest wall. Proposed difficulty category - 2B. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 300 m;
• average steepness - 50°. Driven pitons: rock - 16. Number of walking hours: - 7.

Ascent to the summit — DVUZUBKA from the Ivizak peak — 1B category of difficulty. The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located under the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should:

• go up along the Igizak River
• first along grassy slopes and scree
• then, after 40–50 minutes of movement, cross to the left bank of the river
• begin the ascent up the steep western slope of the valley The slope has rock outcrops. Further ascent on snow leads to the Big Igizak cirque and the Dvuzybka on the plateau. Between the peaks of Bolshoy Igizak and Dvuzybka, there is an unnamed peak. The ascent to Dvuzybka should be made from the saddle between the unnamed peak (Dvuzybka pass). The exit to the pass is on snow. From the pass:
• to the right along the scree,
• then along easy rocks, ascend along the ridge. Then the ridge narrows, and small walls up to 2 m appear. Insurance is simultaneous. Before the summit, you should descend into a shallow depression to the right along a ledge, as the ridge has steep walls to the left. The ascent to the summit from the saddle is 5 m along moderately difficult rocks.

79. South-West Peak of Zamin Karor (Yaghnob Wall) via South-West Ridge, 4A category of complexity, fig. 41

From the base camp, traverse grassy and talus slopes under the north-west wall of the West Shoulder to reach the start of the route. Cross a stream bed and ascend a grassy ridge-cone that abuts the wall. The approach takes about an hour. The route begins to the left of a black, washed-out chimney. The rocks are of medium difficulty, with an average steepness of up to 70°, and a length of 250 m. The first wall leads to a large, gently sloping ledge with talus. Cross the ledge and ascend the second wall, which has more challenging sections than the first wall, to reach a second large ledge. From the ledge, a distinctive split is visible in the right base of the triangular "mirror" slab. Ascend 40 m up a not-so-obvious buttress to a noticeable ledge below. From the ledge, it's 35 m to the split. This section is challenging. Traverse 5 m under the split to the left onto a narrow ledge. Ascent to the split:

• Via the inner angle and chimney formed by the split and the main wall slab on the left. Features:
• The rocks are smoothed.
• The height of the split is 12 m.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, spur of the Hissar mountain range, Khodzha Mofrach.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — unnamed, 4400 m, via the North Ridge (Kazan University Peak).
4. Difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: a. height difference — 220 m. b. average steepness — 40°. c. length of sections: total — 365 m, 2nd difficulty category — 210 m, 3rd difficulty category — 140 m, 4th difficulty category — 15 m.
6. Pitons used: rock — 5, ice — none, bolted — none, nut/hex — 2.

Horseshoe of Sangalt Glacier

Ascent in this area is done from overnight camps: either on the left lateral moraine of Sangalt Glacier or from below Snezhny Pass. Pяти Pass connects Sangalt Glacier with Snezhny Pass. The approach along Sangalg valley to the camps takes 4–5 hours. Fig. 31.

Kruglaya

58. Kruglaya from the northwest, route 16 cat. diff., fig. 31 (Martynov V. with a group — 1953) From the bivouac on the moraine below Snezhny Pass, exit into the cirque towards the pass. The ascent to the summit is to the left, onto the ridge via a steep narrow couloir filled with snow; in its upper part, the couloir becomes the steepest. The summit is accessed via a steep, broken ridge. Many loose rocks. Traverse a short slope with large scree to reach a small snowfield. Follow the snow, bypassing individual rock outcrops, to approach the low rocks of the summit. The descent from the summit is to the east, on the right side of a narrow couloir. Rockfall hazard! Lower down, on the right side of the couloir, a terrace begins, follow it to its end. Descend 25 m down a steep chute to reach an inclined slab. Traverse the slab for 20 m to the next terrace, which leads to a steep chute. Cross the upper part of the chute, crest a low ridge, and follow black, easy rocks to reach Pяти Pass. From the pass, descend via snow to the bivouac. The ascent takes 5–6 hours.

p. Sogdiana (Peak I). From the West. Description of the ascent via route 2B cat. diff.

I. Approaches.

Sogdiana is located at the junction of the Takob and Sangaltak areas. The approaches start at the 45th km of the Varzob highway. Straight from the road:

• The path leads up to the Tikhoi Radosti pass (trail) and descends into the Guscharinka river valley.
• The camp is located right where you descend.
• The approach from the road takes 2 hours. Further approaches follow the trail upstream along the stream, exiting below the fork of the gorges:
• Move to the right, bypassing the walls of Sogdiana on the left, and exit onto the pass.
• The approach from the camp takes 2 hours.