Route Description

December 2, 2025

Udmurtia North via the East Buttress of the North Ridge The route is rock, category 3A (fig. 5, 87, 95, 97, 103). Length — 1200 m, height difference — 600 m, time — 5–6 hours. The approach from the Kirgizata alpine camp (group of 2–6 people) to the initial bivouac on the grassy areas of the Beketty gorge opposite the Eastern walls of the Udmurtia massif — see route 91. From the initial bivouac, a 900–1000-meter ascent up the scree slope, overgrown with grass, on the left side of the East buttress of Udmurtia North peak, leads to a large couloir. Without entering the couloir, exit right onto the East buttress, along it 300–400 m upwards over simple slabs and "ram's foreheads" of the East buttress to the upper rock belt. Steep 50–60° simple and moderately difficult slabs of the belt, 40 m up-left (pitons belay) lead to a scree ledge. From the ledge, up the wall directly, first 40 m over moderately difficult rocks (pitons belay), then 40 m over rocks of moderate and above-moderate difficulty (key point of the route, pitons belay) to a scree ledge. From the ledge, 40 m up-right over steep simple and moderately difficult slabs (pitons belay) and along a 15-meter internal corner, exit onto the summit North Ridge.

Here turn left and along the gentle, simple 250–300-meter North Ridge ascend to the summit of Udmurtia North. From the initial bivouac — 5–6 hours.

Descent:

To the right of the West Ridge is a hanging gorge, ending in rock drops.

Descent is also possible via the South summit:

From the North summit descend over simple rocks of the South Ridge to the saddle.
From it, up a 15-meter wall of moderate difficulty to the North Ridge of the South summit.
And along the simple 300–350-meter North Ridge ascend to the South summit. From the North summit — 30–40 minutes.
From the South summit, descend along the simple South Ridge with two 40-meter rappels to the Beketty pass.
From the pass, over scree and moraines, return to the initial bivouac.

Championship

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