Report

On the ascent to the summit Donguzorun Glavnaya via the southwest slope, category 2A, by the team of MAC "Freeline", September 30, 2024.

I. Ascent Report

Peak Profsoyuzov!

PRK Profsoyuzov.

Cat. diff. 2B.

Summit elevation 2050 m.

The summit is located in the Main Caucasian Range, on the same ridge as the peaks Pkhola-Tau. Near the peak Profsoyuzov are located the following peaks:

• to the southeast — Pkhola-Tau
• to the northwest — Psentiba-shi
• a nameless peak above the Akh-Tsu pass

4. ROUTE DESCRIPTION Ascent to the Main peak of Sakashil-Bashi (4100 m) via the northern edge Day 1 - approach through the Sakashil-do gorge to the bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Central Glacier (at an elevation of 3430 m) - see the general description of ascents to the Sakashil-Bashi massif. From Tyrnyauz - 9:00-10:00. Day 2 - departure should be early - at 3-4 am; from the bivouac, follow the glacier to the foot of the rock buttress, approach the bergschrund (at the beginning of summer, the glacier is snow-covered, by the end of summer - open, crevices are easily bypassed). The elevation of the bergschrund edge under the buttress is 3530 m. Cramp-ons are put on here. Crossing the bergschrund is not complicated - at the beginning of summer it is closed, at the end (September 1969) it is possible to cross on snow bridges. One rope is passed directly up the ice couloir (at the beginning of summer - firn) between the two rock ridges of the buttress. Steepness is about 45°. Then, crossing the couloir to the right and upwards, we approach the rocks of the right (along the route) ridge and move along the edge of the ice and rocks; at the end of the second rope, a rock piton is hammered in for belay. After crossing a small ice tongue, we emerge onto the rocks. Cramp-ons are removed and we ascend the rocks upwards along the couloir for one rope. Rocks are of medium difficulty, heavily destroyed (unstable rocks). Further:

• to the right - along a vaguely expressed internal corner, one rope, one intermediate piton is hammered in;
• then slightly to the right and up along a steep internal corner with a small number of holds, exit to the ridge of the buttress.

I. The route is combined 2. East Caucasus 2.9. 3. Mt. Shalbuzdag (4142) via the Western ridge. 4. Proposed category of difficulty 3A. 5. Route characteristics a. Height difference: 750 m b. Average steepness of main sections: 40° c. Length: 1340 m. (I category — 580 m; II category — 560 m; III category — 120 m; IV category — 80 m) 6. Pitons driven: - rock: 9

• IO - 28

5. ASCENT TO KORYAKSKAYA SOPKA FROM THE SIDE OF ELIZOVSKAYA SUHOY RECHKI RIVER ALONG THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE — cat. dif. 2A (Figure 5) From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky to overnight stay in the Elizovskaya Suhoy Rechki river valley to the volcanological station (see description of the ascent to Avachinsky volcano — cat. dif. 1B). From the volcanological station, with orientation to the large gendarme "Verblud" (gendarme with two peaks), exit to the southeast ridge departing from the pre-peak of Koryakskaya Sopka. Landmark — to the left, along the path, from the ridge a wide steep couloir, dangerous for passage due to rockfall and avalanches. Along the southeast ridge exit to the pre-summit group of rocks. The ridge is heavily destroyed, does not present technical difficulty. Time to cross the ridge from the volcanological station to the pre-peak is 7–8 hours. The ridge ends with a series of gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right along the path (alternate belay). From the pre-summit ridge, traverse the large gendarme to the right along the path onto a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 45–50° and then to the left to a group of rocks, exit to the right side of the upper, narrowest part of the wide snow-ice couloir. Traverse of the couloir:

• steepness 45–50°

I request that changes be made to the All-Union classification table for mountain routes:

• Kozelskaya sopka, traverse from northwest to southeast with ascent to the "tooth" of Kozelskaya via the northwest wall — Category 3A difficulty. Effective January 1, 1975, this route is to be classified as Category 2B.
• Koryaksky volcano, ascent via the northeast ridge — Category 3A difficulty. Effective January 1, 1975, in the winter period, the difficulty of this route is to be considered half a category higher, i.e., Category 3B, for the period from November 1 to May 31. Rationale: Resolution of the Presidium of the Kamchatka Regional Federation of Alpinism dated December 24, 1975, Protocol No. 2, Item 1. Appendices:

1. Memorandum from the Route Classification Commission.
2. Description of the route to Kozelskaya sopka, traverse from northwest to southeast, Category 3A.
3. a) Description of the ascent to Koryaksky volcano via the northeast ridge, Category 3A (summer conditions).

Ovalnaya Zimina volcano, 3rd ridge --- — Passage of the western route. P — Control tour. Δ — Base camp.

Description

Ascent to the summit of Ovalnaya Zimina via western ridges, category 2B.

1. Location description of the volcano

Ovalnaya Zimina is located in the central part of the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes. This is an ancient extinct volcano with gentle, uniform slopes from the north and east. Its western and southern slopes are steep and heavily destroyed. The summit of Ovalnaya Zimina is snow-ice. A 4-meter pole is installed at the highest point of the summit, clearly visible from all sides. It is impossible to blow it away by wind. A hermetically sealed metal box is nailed to this pole.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF Soviet VoIN PEAK VIA THE ROUTE OF 3A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE FRI-LINE TEAM FROM PYATIGORSK ON SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

I. Ascent Passport