Peak Uchitel'

Via South-Western

Counterforce, 4B,

V. Shapovalov, 1978

Pass by the Southern wall of Pioner and immediately after it, turn left into the couloir. You need to be careful in the couloir - rocks may fall depending on the season. It's better to put on helmets even below Pioner. Ascend to the clearly visible counterforce, reach its lower part via a snowpatch lying to the left. R0–R1: From the ledge, along the outer edge, 35-40 meters to the next ledge. R1–R2: From the ledge, upwards to the right across the slabs. A small wall, about two meters (90°), then it flattens out again. R3–R4: Either onto the wall to the right or into the couloir to the left. Either way, it "squeezes" out onto the ridge. R4–R5: The ridge abuts a wall about three meters high. The wall is not difficult, and there are ledges behind it.

Route Description

The starting point of the route is described in the ascent description to the summit of Uchitel 2A cat. sl. from the East. Further path follows the ridge connecting both summits. The first and second gendarmes are bypassed on the left. The remaining ones are overcome head-on. Then a неслож­ный спуск (easy descent) into the pass, movement along the ridge to the very summit of Pioner. The descent from the summit is to the left along the ridge to the Pioner­sky pass (3870 m), from it to the moraine of the Mametova glacier and along the trail to return to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at the Alpin­grad site.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope — 2×40 m
• expendable repschnur — 5–6 m

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. ASCENT CLASS — snow and ice.
2. ASCENT AREA — Tian-Shan, the peak is located in the main ridge of Zailiyskiy Alatau between the peaks OPTЭ and Chokan Valikhanov. To the south of the peak is the Bogatyr glacier, to the north is the Shoskalsky glacier.
3. PEAK ELEVATION — 4400 m. The route runs from the north along the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass, from the pass along the eastern ridge to the peak.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 2A.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — elevation difference: from the base of the Shoskalsky glacier to the OPTЭ pass 450 m, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 200 m. Difficulty of individual sections — from 1B to 3A cat. diff. Average steepness of the route 25°.
6. PITONS USED — 4 ice screws for belay purposes.
7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS — from the camps under the Chekist peak (“Football field”) to the OPTЭ pass 4 hours, from the OPTЭ pass to the peak 1 hour, descent from the peak to the camps 2 hours.
8. NO OVERNIGHT STAYS are planned on the route.
9. PARTICIPANT INFORMATION — team leader Lobushkin Vladimir Nikolaevich, 1st sports category, Popov Alexander Mikhailovich, 1st sports category, Kolonogorov Alexander Valerianovich, 2nd sports category, Petrov Mikhail Nikolaevich, 2nd sports category, Prekhin Viktor Grigorievich, 2nd sports category.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Leisure and Alpinism" Gory Baikal

Report on the First Ascent

To the summit of Baychechekey 4515 m. Via the center of the West Wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge. Section number according to the classification table 7.4.
2. Baychechekey summit 4515 m (summit coordinates: 42°31′45.76″ N 74°33′23.32″ E), via the center of the West Wall.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 5B, first ascent.
4. Route character: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 535 m (3980–4515).

Route Label

	Peak Boks, via the central buttress of the Eastern wall	Difficulty Category
		□
	Pugachyov Ivan Anatolyevich
	Kyrgyzsky Ridge
	№1.2

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Boks, 4242 m, via the central buttress of the Eastern wall, category 4B, I. Pugachyov, 2007.

Bishkek — 2007. Climbing Passport

1. p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. team leader: Sergey Dashkevich, Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Aksay valley.
4. Section in classification 7.4

Report

on the second ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) to p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6A cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Ekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, ap. 17, Sergey Dashkevich, Tel. 89122436251, Dash-sa@mail.ru, Ekaterinburg, 2010

Report on the ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea

Lo­ca­tion. The Peak 30 let VLKSM is lo­ca­t­ed on the ridge of the Ja­la­my­sh­sky spur of the Kyrgyz Range and is its first peak to the north of the junction, where this spur branches off in a practically meridional direction from the So­ku­luk­sky spur. To the north of the peak, its other neighbor, the Pan­filov Peak, rises. From the summit to the east, a counter­fors runs, which flows along the Yu. Ady­gene gla­cier, making a turn to the north. The entire northern slope of the counter­fors is co­ver­ed with a han­ging gla­cier, which forms a small gla­cier at the foot. The western slope of the peak is steep and dissected by numerous rocky ribs made of cry­stal­line chlo­rite schists. Ex­ter­nally, the summit re­semb­les a re­gular three-faced py­ra­mid and is well vis­i­ble from the entire Ady­ge­ne area.

As­cent via the North Ridge

The rou­te, like the pre­vi­ous one, starts from the "Elektro" camp­si­te and coin­ci­des with it in the ini­tial part. Af­ter the slope of the Elektro peak turns to the west, you should not go to the left mo­re­ne of the Yu. Ady­ge­ne gla­cier. You need to con­tin­ue mo­ving along the same hol­low in the south­ern di­rec­tion, where the beau­ti­ful py­ra­mid — the goal of the as­cent — is al­most al­ways vis­i­ble. The hol­low leads to the val­ley be­tween the Pan­filov Peak and the Peak 30 let VLKSM, which forms two cham­bers here:

• the north­ern one
• the south­ern one, ad­ja­cent di­rectly to the Peak 30 let VLKSM From this val­ley, the bot­tom of which is paved with mo­ren­ic ridges, it is nec­es­sary to as­cend to the ridge con­nect­ing the two men­tioned sum­mits. There are two vari­ants of the path to this ridge:
• The first one: along the slope with an exit to the col (the 30 let VLKSM pass) from the south­ern cham­ber. The path to the pass runs along a loose scree.

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT OF PIK BOKS VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE EASTERN WALL ROUTE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, BY THE POLITEKHNIK-6 TEAM FROM JULY 27 TO JULY 27, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Imanbaev Renat Talgatovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Breer Artur Andreevich, 2nd sports rank, Ibragimova Elena Valeryevna, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Baranov Dmitry Andreevich
1.4	Organization	UTC FA SPb
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

PASSPORT

1. Class — snow-ice
2. Tian-Shan, Djetyoguz gorge
3. Peak Armstrong by the North wall
4. Proposed 5B cat. diff. (second ascent)
5. Elevation gain — 850 m, length 1280 m, wall — 1120 m, length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 910 m, average steepness of the main part — 52°
6. Pitons driven: ice — 232/0
7. Climbing hours — 10 h
8. No overnight stay
9. Leader — Gorbenko Mstislav Mstislavovich — Master of Sports of International Class

¹

Footnotes

1. 4­А — Usogametechi MGP ↩