Activity Feed
Route Description: СВ кф.
Report on the ascent made by the Sever sports club team from Severodvinsk to Peak Pobeda via the north-eastern spur.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
- Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek.
- Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via the northeastern counterfort.
- Complexity category: proposed — 6A category, 2nd ascent.
- Route characteristics: height difference: 2989 m (by altimeter); distance: ascent — 3650 m; descent — 4160 m. Distance of sections with 5th category complexity — 580 m; 6th category complexity — 350 m.
Route Description: СВ ребру плеча п. Чапаева
Ascent of Khan-Tengri (7010 m) via the classic route across the shoulder of Peak Chapayev, category 5B, in difficult weather conditions.
Passport
- High-altitude technical climb
- Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge
- Khan Tengri peak 7010 m, from the north, via Chapayev peak shoulder
- Category of difficulty 5B
- Height difference 2710 m, length – 3500 m
- Average steepness – 55°
- Pitons hammered in: rock – 25, ice – 15
- Climbing hours – 18 hours
- Overnight stays – 2 in a tent
Route Description: левой части ЮЗ баст, и ЮЗ ребру
Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the "Marble Rib" route in 1964 by a team led by V. Romanov.
Report
on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the southwest edge (MARBLE EDGE)
by the team of CS DSO "Trud" led by Master of Sports B. Romanov
from August 4 to 11, 1964
Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) is located in the highest part
of the Central Tien Shan, in an area where the highest peaks of this mountain system are concentrated:
Route Description: ЮЗ кф. ЮЗ ребра
Ascent of Khan Tengri Peak via the SW spur of the SSW ridge, grade 6B, second ascent.
Passport
High-altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier, Khan-Tengri peak via the southwestern spur of the south-southwestern ridge. Category 6B difficulty, second ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 2500 m, route length: 3280 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category: 1015 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°, of which 6B category difficulty — 120 m. 6. Pitons driven:
| Rock | Bolts | Nuts | Ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 77 | 1 | 81 | 93 |
| 6 | X | 9 | 0 |
| X — reuse of previously driven pitons. |
Route Description: ЮЗ ребру Ю гребня
Description of the first ascent of the West Tent peak (6740 m) in the Central Tian Shan via the North-West edge of the North ridge.
PASSPORT
I. High-altitude category. 2. Central Tian Shan, Tengri Tag ridge. 3. Peak Zapadny Shatyor, via the Southwest Ridge of the South Ridge, 6740 m. 4. Proposed - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 1840 m; length - 3428 m; length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 240 m; average steepness of the southwest ridge - 48°. 6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: СВ кф.
Report on the ascent of Zhalgirys peak (4850 m) via the north-eastern buttress with traverse of 4600 m peak, grade 5B, Tian Shan, Terskey-Alatoo.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Climbing category: technical.
- Climbing area: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo.
- Ascent route: ascent to p. Zhalgiriz (4850 m) via the NE buttress of peak "4600 m" with traverse.
- Proposed category of complexity: 5B.
- Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1350 m, b) average steepness — 60°, c) length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 390 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 340 m, 4th cat. diff. — 320 m, 5th cat. diff. — 520 m, 6th cat. diff. — 40 m.
- Pitons hammered: a) for belaying: rock — 64 pcs., ice — 23 pcs.; b) for creating ITO: rock — 6 pcs.
- Number of travel hours: 53 h.
- Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 5 overnight stays — all normal.
- Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Ascent to the United Nations Peak (3900 m) in the Western Tian Shan via the NW ridge, category of difficulty 3.5.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock
- Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route — "Ob'edinennykh natsiy", 3900 m, NW ridge
- Estimated difficulty category — 3B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m average steepness — 65° length of sections: 3 – 45 m, 4 – 85 m, 5 – 130 m
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: правому канту камина Ю стены
Description of the ascent route to Yan Kresta peak (4634 m) via the right edge of the wall, climbed by a group of mountaineers in 1979.
Climbing Passport
1. Climbing Category:
Technical
2. Climbing Area:
Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, Height, and Ascent Route:
p. Yana Kreusa (4634 m), via the right edge of the chimney on the South Face
4. Difficulty Category:
5B (variant)
Route Description: левой части В стены
Climbing passport for the peak Karaganda North (4800 m) via the left edge of the Eastern wall, category of difficulty 5B combined.
Moscow Region Championship 1983 /technical class/ ASCENT DOCUMENT.
- Area: Gamuysh gorge, Pamir-Alay.
- Peak — Karaganda North (4800 m) via the left edge of the East wall
- Difficulty category — 5B combined
- Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 65–70°, section length — 800 m, grade U–U1
- Pitons and other gear. Total: rock, nuts, hanging cams, ice screws, incl. AID: 144, 70, 65, 8, 1, 8.
- Climbing hours: 37 for the ascent (route traverse)
Route Description: с пер. Чунгурджар
**Climbing route description to the summit via Chungur Pass** with key landmarks and time estimates for each stage.
Route Description:
The ascent to Chugur Pass (following the "Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass" route) is to the right of the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol Pass, it takes 2 hours. From the pass, follow the right side of the 500-meter ridge, initially a broken rocky ridge (watch out for cornices on the left!), then a snowy ridge to reach the summit. From Chugur Pass, it takes 2.5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route to Chugur Pass and takes 1.5 hours.
- When ascending from the northern side, from Chugur valley, set up the initial bivouac under the Chugur glacier on the right lateral moraine, on the shore of a dried-up lake. From here, the ascent to Chugur Pass goes along the right side of the snowy slopes of the glacier, then up a steep (up to 40°) 80-meter snowy slope.