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Report on the ascent made by the Sever sports club team from Severodvinsk to Peak Pobeda via the north-eastern spur.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
  2. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek.
  3. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via the northeastern counterfort.
  4. Complexity category: proposed — 6A category, 2nd ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference: 2989 m (by altimeter); distance: ascent — 3650 m; descent — 4160 m. Distance of sections with 5th category complexity — 580 m; 6th category complexity — 350 m.
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Ascent of Khan-Tengri (7010 m) via the classic route across the shoulder of Peak Chapayev, category 5B, in difficult weather conditions.

Passport

  1. High-altitude technical climb
  2. Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge
  3. Khan Tengri peak 7010 m, from the north, via Chapayev peak shoulder
  4. Category of difficulty 5B
  5. Height difference 2710 m, length – 3500 m
  6. Average steepness – 55°
  7. Pitons hammered in: rock – 25, ice – 15
  8. Climbing hours – 18 hours
  9. Overnight stays – 2 in a tent
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Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the "Marble Rib" route in 1964 by a team led by V. Romanov.

Report

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the southwest edge (MARBLE EDGE) by the team of CS DSO "Trud" led by Master of Sports B. Romanov from August 4 to 11, 1964 Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) is located in the highest part of the Central Tien Shan, in an area where the highest peaks of this mountain system are concentrated:

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Ascent of Khan Tengri Peak via the SW spur of the SSW ridge, grade 6B, second ascent.

Passport

High-altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier, Khan-Tengri peak via the southwestern spur of the south-southwestern ridge. Category 6B difficulty, second ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 2500 m, route length: 3280 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category: 1015 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°, of which 6B category difficulty — 120 m. 6. Pitons driven:

RockBoltsNutsIce
7718193
6X90
X — reuse of previously driven pitons.
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Description of the first ascent of the West Tent peak (6740 m) in the Central Tian Shan via the North-West edge of the North ridge.

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude category. 2. Central Tian Shan, Tengri Tag ridge. 3. Peak Zapadny Shatyor, via the Southwest Ridge of the South Ridge, 6740 m. 4. Proposed - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 1840 m; length - 3428 m; length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 240 m; average steepness of the southwest ridge - 48°. 6. Pitons driven:

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Report on the ascent of Zhalgirys peak (4850 m) via the north-eastern buttress with traverse of 4600 m peak, grade 5B, Tian Shan, Terskey-Alatoo.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Climbing category: technical.
  2. Climbing area: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo.
  3. Ascent route: ascent to p. Zhalgiriz (4850 m) via the NE buttress of peak "4600 m" with traverse.
  4. Proposed category of complexity: 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1350 m, b) average steepness — 60°, c) length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 390 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 340 m, 4th cat. diff. — 320 m, 5th cat. diff. — 520 m, 6th cat. diff. — 40 m.
  6. Pitons hammered: a) for belaying: rock — 64 pcs., ice — 23 pcs.; b) for creating ITO: rock — 6 pcs.
  7. Number of travel hours: 53 h.
  8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 5 overnight stays — all normal.
  9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
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Ascent to the United Nations Peak (3900 m) in the Western Tian Shan via the NW ridge, category of difficulty 3.5.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock
  2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — "Ob'edinennykh natsiy", 3900 m, NW ridge
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m average steepness — 65° length of sections: 3 – 45 m, 4 – 85 m, 5 – 130 m
  6. Pitons driven:
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Description of the ascent route to Yan Kresta peak (4634 m) via the right edge of the wall, climbed by a group of mountaineers in 1979.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing Category:

Technical

2. Climbing Area:

Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge

3. Peak, Height, and Ascent Route:

p. Yana Kreusa (4634 m), via the right edge of the chimney on the South Face

4. Difficulty Category:

5B (variant)

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Climbing passport for the peak Karaganda North (4800 m) via the left edge of the Eastern wall, category of difficulty 5B combined.

Moscow Region Championship 1983 /technical class/ ASCENT DOCUMENT.

  1. Area: Gamuysh gorge, Pamir-Alay.
  2. Peak — Karaganda North (4800 m) via the left edge of the East wall
  3. Difficulty category — 5B combined
  4. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 65–70°, section length — 800 m, grade U–U1
  5. Pitons and other gear. Total: rock, nuts, hanging cams, ice screws, incl. AID: 144, 70, 65, 8, 1, 8.
  6. Climbing hours: 37 for the ascent (route traverse)
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**Climbing route description to the summit via Chungur Pass** with key landmarks and time estimates for each stage.

Route Description:

The ascent to Chugur Pass (following the "Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass" route) is to the right of the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol Pass, it takes 2 hours. From the pass, follow the right side of the 500-meter ridge, initially a broken rocky ridge (watch out for cornices on the left!), then a snowy ridge to reach the summit. From Chugur Pass, it takes 2.5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route to Chugur Pass and takes 1.5 hours.

  • When ascending from the northern side, from Chugur valley, set up the initial bivouac under the Chugur glacier on the right lateral moraine, on the shore of a dried-up lake. From here, the ascent to Chugur Pass goes along the right side of the snowy slopes of the glacier, then up a steep (up to 40°) 80-meter snowy slope.
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