ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo.
3. Ascent route: ascent to p. Zhalgiriz (4850 m) via the NE buttress of peak "4600 m" with traverse.
4. Proposed category of complexity: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1350 m, b) average steepness — 60°, c) length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 390 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 340 m, 4th cat. diff. — 320 m, 5th cat. diff. — 520 m, 6th cat. diff. — 40 m.
6. Pitons hammered: a) for belaying: rock — 64 pcs., ice — 23 pcs.; b) for creating ITO: rock — 6 pcs.
7. Number of travel hours: 53 h.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 5 overnight stays — all normal.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
   1. SHA DUIKIS Vilus Yuozovich, CMS, leader;
   2. MOZURAITYTE Aurelia Kozovna, 1st sports category, participant;
   3. DAUGVILA Yuozas Yuozovich, 1st sports category, participant.
10. Team coach: Master of Sports I.K. MIGLA.
11. Date of departure and return: 28 July 1979 — 3 August 1979.

Table of main route characteristics

Ascent route: ascent to p. 4600 m via the NE buttress

Height difference of the route 1100 m, including complex sections

Nutrition

Rations were provided for two hot meals and dry rations for lunch:

• 100 g high-quality sausage
• 50 g chocolate
• 50 g nuts
• 5–6 pieces of sugar.

Due to the successful selection of high-calorie products, the weight per group member per day was 0.5 kg.

It should be noted that the selection of products, as well as their distribution during the ascent and preparation of hot meals, was skillfully organized by Aurelia Mozuraitite. Well-organized nutrition contributed to the group's good mood during the ascent.

Ascent details

Day 1. 28 July 1979. We left the base camp (confluence of the Takyr-Tor and Chon-Uzen rivers) at 10:00. After 4 hours of walking, we reached the East Chon-Uzen glacier. To approach the buttress, which is clearly visible from the base camp, we had to bypass 2 icefalls.

• We bypassed the 1st icefall on the left side of the glacier.
• In the middle of the glacier, a ridge protrudes, dividing the glacier into two parts.
• We bypassed the 2nd icefall, located on the right side of the glacier, on the right side in the middle of the protruding destroyed ridge.

On its upper part, above the icefall, on loose rocks, we set up an overnight stay, altitude 3500 m. From here, the start of the route is nearby, and its lower part is clearly visible.

Day 2. 29 July 1979. We started processing the route. We crossed the glacier and approached the route. We carefully passed the bergschrund. With piton belay, we ascended the steep ice slope. Two ropes up the ice to the inner rock corner. Then we ascended the middle part of the inner corner (1 rope). After lunch, the weather worsened, and the rope team urgently returned to the overnight stay, leaving the hung ropes.

Day 3. 30 July 1979. At 7:00, the entire group started on the route. We began ascending the steep ice slope and reached the rock inner corner. We passed 2 ropes. Working first, the group leader V. Stepulis pulled himself up and got an attack of radiculitis. The group returned to the overnight stay and accompanied him to the end of the glacier. Via radio communication, it became known that a group led by V. Bitinas was nearby. They came and escorted V. Stepulis to the base camp, where a doctor was waiting.

Day 4. 31 July 1979. At 7:30, we again crossed the glacier, bergschrund, and then up the ice slope and inner rock corner. Then we moved to the right onto a ledge, where it was convenient to belay and pull up backpacks. From the ledge, initially, there was a negative angle. Good piton belay and ladders were needed. Then we ascended a weakly expressed ridge to a steep ice slope (1 rope). Traversing left along the ice slope, cutting steps, we ascended to a snow ridge (2 ropes). Behind the ridge, on the left side near the rocks, there is a small depression. Here is a convenient place for an overnight stay. At 20:00, we stopped for the night.

Day 5. 1 August 1979. At 6:00, we started ascending the snow-ice ridge, sometimes cutting steps and with piton belay (3 ropes). At the foot of a steep ice couloir, we moved left to a rock ridge. Here, climbing was very difficult on icy rocks (1 rope). We pulled up backpacks.

Then we traversed a stone-dangerous wide couloir (1 rope). In the middle of the couloir, during the day, a cold "shower" poured from the overhanging rocks. Behind the couloir, we reached a ridge, which sometimes turned into a wall. Ascending with piton belay to a snow ledge going to the right (4 ropes). Here is a good place for an overnight stay. At 19:30, we stopped for the night.

Day 6. 2 August 1979. At 6:00, we started processing the route. We moved to the right onto the ridge. After 30 m, the ridge became very steep. We bypassed this place on the right via a chimney. To the control cairn on a snow and gentle shoulder of the ridge — 3 ropes.

From the shoulder with the control cairn, there is a steep ascent of the ridge. We ascended directly up the wall, which then turned into a sharp ridge. Before the second ascent of the ridge, we traversed to the left onto a pronounced ledge (2 ropes). Here is also a good place for an overnight stay.

From the ledge, we ascended a wide couloir, sticking to the right side. Here, the rocks are monolithic, holds are good, and climbing is pleasant.

In the middle of the couloir, there is a risk of falling stones!

In the upper part of the couloir, we exited to the right onto the ridge (2 ropes). Then, along icy rocks, we ascended to the upper part of the rock ridge (1 rope).

To reach the snow-ice ridge of the summit, we had to ascend a steep ice slope and pass a hanging snow cornice (2.5–3 m). For this, we organized reliable belay near the rock ridge. We passed through the cornice via a "window" cut by A. Migla's group.

Behind the cornice is the ice-snow dome of the summit. On the left side of the dome, on the rocks, there is a second control cairn. At 20:30, not far from the cairn, in a depression, we stopped for the night.

Day 7. 3 August 1979.

At 6:30, we started descending from peak "4600" along the ridge towards p. Zhalgiriz. Descent along destroyed rocks and an ice slope. We moved simultaneously. We reached a wide snow-ice saddle before p. Zhalgiriz. Then we ascended a steep ice ridge to the summit (see photo).

Be careful, there are large cornices on the left!

The most difficult part of the ascent is just before the summit, along the ice wall. The weather is good, and we passed the last part with great enthusiasm.

At 9:00, we reached the summit of Zhalgiriz. Here, we found a note from the first ascenders in 1969 and a group led by A. Gučas, which was on the summit two days ago via a 4A category route. On the summit, we installed a commemorative plaque brought by us (see photo).

Descent from the summit followed the ascent route of the 4A category, back along the ridge to the 2nd peak of the Ak-Su wall, and then along the ridge spur to the East Chon-Uzen glacier. At 18:00, we descended to the base camp.

Group leader: (V. SHA DUIKIS)