Central Pamir. Peak Kommunizma (7495 m), North-East Face

Team of the Central Council of the "Trud" Sports Society

Team Composition:

1. Chunovkin G.A. MS — captain, coach
2. Borzov Yu.V. MS — participant
3. Slesov I.V. MS — participant
4. Dzhioev G.L. MS — participant
5. Mikhalev V.E. CMS — participant 1978

Brief Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of the Climbing Area

1917–1967

In honor of the 50th anniversary of the Great October Socialist Revolution

Report

on the ascent of Peak Communism (7495 m) from the Bivachny glacier by the sports team of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional Sports Union. Materials for the USSR Climbing Championship 1967. Dnepropetrovsk 1967 Thus, the final composition of the assault group after adjustments was as follows:

1. Sinkovsky A.B. — MS — captain
2. Zaydler A.M. — MS — participant
3. Pechenin V.M. — MS — participant
4. Verbitsky G.G. — CMS — participant

Report

Ascent to Peak

Stalin

Group of CS SDSO "Burvestnik" Pamir, July – August 1961

Table of Contents

Introduction...........................................1 Brief Description of the Area............................1 Preparatory Period............................4 Assault.............................................11

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area — North-West Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, from Belyaev Glacier via south-west face of Peak 6950 m.
4. Expected difficulty category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: Total height difference — 2795 m; length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 1300 m; average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying rock 296, ice 15, for creating Intermediate Technical Objects (ITO): rock 14, ice —.
7. Number of climbing hours: total 108.5 h, to the summit 95.5 h.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing class — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — North-Western Pamir.
3. Climbing route to the summit of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m above sea level) via the south-western wall.
4. Climbing characteristics: height difference — 2800 m; average steepness — 70°; length of complex section (90°) — 1540 m. Number of pitons: rock — 501; ice — 15; bolted — 32.
5. Number of travel hours — 121. Number of overnight stays — 23, half of them sitting.
6. Team of the Rostov Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports.
7. Team members:

Route Description: Traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the Segment from Pik Parashyutistov to Pik Akhmad Donish

Group II of the "Burevestnik" Complex Expedition. Pamir, August 1968.

Description

of traversing the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges on the segment including Pik Parashyutistov – Pamiro Firnovo Plateau – Pik Kommunizma – Pik 6701 m – Pik Izvestiya – Pik K. Tsetkin – Pik A. Donisha.

I. Brief Geographical Characteristics of the Area

The Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges are located in the Northwestern Pamir. Their junction, Pik Kommunizma, is the highest peak in the USSR. The ridges, the first stretching in a latitudinal direction and the second in a meridional direction, are characterized by powerful glaciation and high peaks in their central parts adjacent to Pik Kommunizma. Studying the Petra I and Akademii Nauk Ridges, which play a significant role in shaping the climatic conditions of the Pamir and surrounding areas, as well as in the water balance of the Amu-Darya, is of great interest.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range.
3. Peak — Peak "E. Korzhenevskoi" 7105 m, via the South Ridge from Moskvin Glacier.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 4200–7105 m, section length 5 km – 60 m, average steepness of the route 42°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying SK-16, ice screws 2, for creating anchor points — 2 pieces.
7. Total climbing hours — 26 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs — three, two bivouacs were set up on the ridge by cutting part of the snowy ridge and laying out stone platforms.
9. Team

1. Class of ascent — high-altitude;
2. Region of ascent — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
3. Peaks, their height, ascent route: Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) with ascent from Moskvina Glacier along the southwest ridge (Markelov's route);
4. Category of difficulty — 5B;
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3000 m; length of sections: 1st category of difficulty — 1000 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 800 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 300 m, 4th category of difficulty — 740 m, 5th category of difficulty — 160 m; average steepness: 30°;
6. Pitons driven: for creating artificial holds — none, for belaying — 44, of which rock pitons — 4, ice screws — 40, bolt pitons — none;
7. Number of climbing hours: 6+7+10+10+8=41 hours;
8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: 4 bivouacs, lying down;
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Krasnoukhov Yuri Vasilyevich (MS) — team leader

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION Central Council of the SDSO "Burevestnik", Bauman MSTU sports club

Ascent to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via South Face of the Pamir Mountains. (Report)

Team Coach A. Ovchinnikov Team Captain L. Dobrovolsky Fortambek Glacier — Moscow, 1966 www.alpfederation.ru I. Brief Geographical Description, Exploration, and History of Ascent to Peak Evgenia Korzhenevskaya

Ascent Certificate

1. Class: winter
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Prielbrusye
3. Ushba North via Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty: 6A
5. Route characteristics:
6. Elevation gain: 1700 m (by altimeter)
7. Route length: 2550 m
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1370 m
   • Average steepness: main part of the route — 56°, entire route (from bivouacs) — 48°