Passport

1. Climbs — high-altitude
2. Climbing area — Eastern Pamir, Trans-Alay Range from the south
3. Climbing routes — via the western slopes of the unnamed peaks 6205 and 6042
4. Climbing characteristics: HEIGHT | 6205 | — 1095 m | | :------------ | :------: | | 6042 | — 932 m | | average steepness — 45° | |

Route Description

to the summit of Peak named after the newspaper "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy" (6042 m) via the western counterfort. The group consisted of 8 people:

1. Kokorev V.I. — leader
2. Milko V.B. — participant
3. Rozhalskaya G.K. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
4. Tumovich S.D. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
5. Shturma G.V. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
6. Shalygin A.A. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
7. Braverman V.L. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"

The preliminary ridge of the left peak and snow cornices. The ridge is initially sharp with cornices to the NE side.

• Two rocky "mandarins" are passed with piton belay.
• The last three rope lengths to the ascent to the summit are very steep.
• The exit to the summit is through a snow cornice 1–1.5 m wide. The summit is snowy. A cairn is built one rope length below the summit on the rocks. The descent is made via the approach route — 5–6 hours. The route is of the 4th cat. diff. Estimated ascent time:

1. Ascent from the 3800 m lake to the bivouac on the 4800 m ridge — 3 hours.
2. Passage of the section from 4800 m to the 5280 m summit — 8 hours. Recommended equipment for a group of 8 people.

First ascent of the route to Peak Sverdlova (5400 m) via the eastern counterfort through the summit 5280 m. Peak Sverdlova, 5400 m high, is located east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Trans-Alay range to the north. Approach to the route: from the Amrug-Kurgan settlement, head southeast for 35–40 km to the Kок-Kyik gorge. Follow the wide valley on the right side (orographic) of the river to the confluence of the right tributary. Cross to the left bank of the left component of the river; continue along the Kutasov trail to a small lake on an ancient moraine (altimeter reading 3800 m), where the route begins. The ascent starts on fine scree with uncomplicated, ruined rocks. After 2 hours, several gendarmes are encountered:

• the first gendarme is passed head-on,
• the second — from the right, with piton protection,
• subsequent ones are passed head-on with protection via ledges. From an elevation of 4400–4500 m, the route follows deep snow; movement is simultaneous. It is advisable to set up an overnight camp at an altitude of 4800 m, after 5–6 hours of travel. From a flat area on the ridge (4800 m), a steep ascent begins on snow in the direction of a narrow rocky ridge, which is bypassed on the left. The snow is loose and deep. From the middle of the rocky ridge, the steepness increases sharply (up to 50–55°). The most challenging section of the route (5–6 pitches) is the final push before reaching the pre-summit ridge. Movement is significantly hindered by ruined, schistose, flaky rocks covered with patchy ice and shallow snow. Protection is via ice screws and step cutting. The exit to the pre-summit ridge is to the left of the topmost part of the rocky ridge.

The summit of Pik Sverdlova is a huge cornice hanging to the east; ridges branch off to the NE, SE, and SSE. On the northeastern part of the summit, there is a rocky outcrop where a bust of Ya. M. Sverdlov was installed and a cairn was built, with flags of the Russian Federation and Kyrgyzstan erected. Descent from the summit is possible via any of the three branching ridges. Our group descended via the ascent route. The route's difficulty is assessed by the group as category 5A. Ascent time calculation.

1. Ascent from Lake 3800 m to the base camp on the ridge at 4800 m — 8 hours.
2. Traversing the section from 4800 m to the summit at 5280 m — 8 hours.
3. Traversing the section from the cave to the summit of Sverdlova — 7 hours. Recommended equipment for a group of 8 people:
4. Tents — 2 pcs.
5. Ropes 40 m × 4
6. Ice screws — 10 pcs.
7. Rock pitons — 10 pcs.

Ascent Logbook

1. Ascent Category: High-altitude technical
2. Ascent Area: Pamir, Zaalaysky Range
3. Ascent Route with Summit Elevations: Kyzyl-Ogyn 6679 m via the eastern wall
4. Ascent Characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 6679 m – 4600 m = 2080 m
   • Average slope of the Eastern wall: 55°
   • Average slope of the entire route (across the plateau): 40°
   • Length of complex sections during ascent: 2285 m
5. Pitons Used:

Alpinism Federation of Azerbaijan

Report

On the ascent to

PEAK IBN SINA (LENIN) 7134 m WORLD ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP. HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS. July 3 — July 23, 2012

Baku, 2012

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Trans-Alay range
2. Peak name: Lenin Peak

Climbing Report on Peak Lenin via Arkin's Route (Variation)

Climbing Details:

1. Pamir. Peak Lenin, 7134 m. Via the center of the north face, Arkin's route. Route type – snow and ice. Route elevation gain 2700 m.
2. Climbing style: alpine.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route – 40–45°.
4. Pitons left on the route: 0

CS "DSO "Zalgiris""

ASCENT TO LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE SOUTH 5A cat. sl. IN HONOR OF THE 25th ANNIVERSARY OF SOVIET LITHUANIA (report for the 1965 USSR Climbing Championship) Vilnius, 1965

II. BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LENIN PEAK REGION

Lenin Peak, with an elevation of 7134.3 m above sea level, is located in the middle part of the Trans-Alai Range and is its highest peak. The peak is connected to Peak Dzerzhinsky (6713 m) to the west and, via the Krylenko Pass (5820 m), to the ridge of Peak Edinstva (6673 m) to the east. To the south, in a spur of the Lenin Peak massif, lies the Moscow-Peking Peak (6852 m). The Lenin Glacier flows from the northern massifs of Lenin Peak. The southern slopes of the peak are drained by the glaciers:

• Big Sauk-Dara (to the east)
• Small Sauk-Dara (to the west) The elevation difference between Lenin Peak and the middle part of the Sauk-Dara Glacier is about 3000 m. The slopes of the peak are covered with glaciers and thick layers of firn snow. In some places, the slope steepness reaches 55°. The slopes are cut by crevices up to 100 m or more in depth. Snow avalanches and ice collapses are frequent. Atmospheric pressure at the summit (7134 m) is 290 mm. Lenin Peak is the third highest seven-thousander in the USSR and is quite popular among climbers due to its relatively easy access to the starting points of the ascent. Most ascents are made from the northern side, from the Lenin Glacier.

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: