First ascent of the route to Peak Sverdlova (5400 m) via the eastern counterfort through the summit 5280 m.

Peak Sverdlova, 5400 m high, is located east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Trans-Alay range to the north.

Approach to the route: from the Amrug-Kurgan settlement, head southeast for 35–40 km to the Kок-Kyik gorge. Follow the wide valley on the right side (orographic) of the river to the confluence of the right tributary. Cross to the left bank of the left component of the river; continue along the Kutasov trail to a small lake on an ancient moraine (altimeter reading 3800 m), where the route begins.

The ascent starts on fine scree with uncomplicated, ruined rocks. After 2 hours, several gendarmes are encountered:

• the first gendarme is passed head-on,
• the second — from the right, with piton protection,
• subsequent ones are passed head-on with protection via ledges.

From an elevation of 4400–4500 m, the route follows deep snow; movement is simultaneous. It is advisable to set up an overnight camp at an altitude of 4800 m, after 5–6 hours of travel.

From a flat area on the ridge (4800 m), a steep ascent begins on snow in the direction of a narrow rocky ridge, which is bypassed on the left. The snow is loose and deep. From the middle of the rocky ridge, the steepness increases sharply (up to 50–55°). The most challenging section of the route (5–6 pitches) is the final push before reaching the pre-summit ridge. Movement is significantly hindered by ruined, schistose, flaky rocks covered with patchy ice and shallow snow. Protection is via ice screws and step cutting. The exit to the pre-summit ridge is to the left of the topmost part of the rocky ridge.