The preliminary ridge of the left peak and snow cornices. The ridge is initially sharp with cornices to the NE side.

• Two rocky "mandarins" are passed with piton belay.
• The last three rope lengths to the ascent to the summit are very steep.
• The exit to the summit is through a snow cornice 1–1.5 m wide.

The summit is snowy. A cairn is built one rope length below the summit on the rocks.

The descent is made via the approach route — 5–6 hours. The route is of the 4th cat. diff. Estimated ascent time:

1. Ascent from the 3800 m lake to the bivouac on the 4800 m ridge — 3 hours.
2. Passage of the section from 4800 m to the 5280 m summit — 8 hours.

Recommended equipment for a group of 8 people.

1. Tents — 2 pcs.
2. 40 m ropes — 4 pcs.
3. Ice pitons — 6 pcs.
4. Rock pitons — 6 pcs.
5. Hammers — 2 pcs.
6. Carabiners — 20 pcs.
7. Crampons — 8 pcs.

The description was compiled by 3, Bрусницин