Route Description
to the summit of Peak named after the newspaper "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy" (6042 m) via the western counterfort.
The group consisted of 8 people:
- Kokorev V.I. — leader
- Milko V.B. — participant
- Rozhalskaya G.K. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
- Tumovich S.D. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
- Shturma G.V. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
- Shalygin A.A. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
- Braverman V.L. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
- Mironchik O.N. — "Krasnoyarsky Rabochy"
On August 2, 1978, the group left their overnight stay at 8:00 am, crossed the eastern branch of the Oktyabrsky glacier, and approached the start of the route under the counterfort in 45 minutes. The path goes east along the edge between ice and talus, with a slope of 45–50°; they approached the area of the hanging glacier, which is located at an altitude of 5700 m; they spent 2 h 15 min on this section. They traversed the hanging glacier on crampons with piton protection. Organization of a mass type of belay (perils) — about 200 m. Further, the path goes to the area of the pre-summit shoulder, altitude 5900, on the left it drops steeply to the Uy-Su glacier with a steep snowfield. From the start of the route to the exit to the shoulder, they spent 4 h. Then, along a steep ridge 40–45° with rock outcrops, they reached the summit 6042. At the summit, as on the previous one, there was no cairn, no signs that anyone had previously ascended the summit, so they can be considered first ascenders to this summit as well. The entire ascent to the summit took 6 h. Descent was made via the ascent route.
It can be noted that the conditions for the ascent were close to ideal: excellent weather and conditions.
2.
The condition of the slopes allowed for a fast, accident-free ascent without any particular additional difficulties.
