Report

on the first ascent of the traverse of three peaks:

• p. 3657
• peak 3472 (peak Novorossiysk)
• p. 3440 (Bivachnaya) 3A cat. diff. by the group of alplager "SHKhelda" on July 28, 2022 Participants:
• Korolev A.V.
• Dedyukhin M.E.

Passport

1. Ice and snow ascent class.
2. Central Caucasus, Southern lateral spur of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak Tetnuld, center of the North face.
4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain 1780 m, length 2190 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 1768 m. Average steepness of main sections is 55° (R1–R2, R4–R14), including 6 category of difficulty 85–110° for 130 m (R12–R14).
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 1
   • ice: 232

"Main Dzhangitau via the North-East buttress — category 5A" (Schwarzgruber, A. Larin, Peringer, Taper — 23 July 1935; N. Chekmarev and G. Skornyakov — 23 August 1936; Fig. 39). From Bezengi alpine camp, follow the trail along the left-bank moraine of the Bezengi gorge up to the Missekosha hut. From the hut, on the south side of the meadow, follow the trail down, across the meadow with graves of climbers who perished in the Bezengi area, and descend to the Bezengi Glacier. Traverse the glacier, keeping to its left side, up and past minor icefalls and crevasses near the left bank, and then up the center-right of the glacier to its fork into left (East) and right (North-West) branches. Under the icefall of the East branch, turn left under the talus and grassy ascent of the left-bank moraine. Follow the trail right of the stream that flows from the trough between the moraine and the slopes of Pik Semenovsky down to the main Bezengi Glacier, and ascend to the moraine. Camp on the moraine. From Bezengi alpine camp — 3–4 hours. From the camp (with crampons!) traverse the glacier to the right side of the base of the North-East buttress of Main Dzhangitau. From the glacier, ascend the avalanche debris (avalanches!) between two rocky outcrops, through a bergschrund and along a gully, and then up a snowy slope to beneath the main rocky ascent of the North-East buttress. Bypass it via a snowy ascent on the right (avalanches! rockfall! icefall!) and exit onto an ice ledge (pitons!). From initial camp — 3–4 hours. From here:

• left and up rocky terrain of medium difficulty and an ice-snow slope (pitons!) — ascent onto the North-East buttress;
• from there, right and 80–100 m up simple and medium-difficulty rocks of the buttress (“live” rocks! pitons!), small slabs are bypassed via snow-ice slopes on the right;
• then, up a snowy slope — ascent onto a horizontal snowy ridge;

Central Federal District Climbing Championship

Ascent Report

TO THE SUMMIT of Dykhtau, Main peak via left South buttress (Alexashin's Route) 5A cat. diff. Voronezh 2023

I. Ascent Passport

103. Traverse of the Koshtan-Krest ridge from the peak of Kankashev to Gerty-Bashi with ascent to the peak Kankashev via the Eastern ridge — 5A cat. diff. (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, V. Shutov — July 16–21, 1961; fig. 34, 35). The path from the alp camp "Bezengi" to the Eastern summit of peak Kankashev see in description 102. From the Eastern summit:

• descend 60 m down simple monolithic rocks to the snowy ridge in the failure. From the failure:
• ascend simple destroyed rocks of the ridge to the Western summit of peak Kankashev. From the Western summit:
• descend to the west first over simple rocks,
• then by sports descents over slabs and steep rocks of medium difficulty to a simple snowy ridge. Further:

Moscow Climbing Championship 2024

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Karakaya via the Central Counterfort of the Southwest Wall, 6A category of difficulty, by the team from Moscow from October 9 to October 13, 2024.

Semenov M. A. — Master of Sports Vvedenskaya V. V. — 1st sports category Spichka A. I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Alpine Club — "Mountain Madness"

St. Petersburg Alpinism Federation

Russian Alpinism Championship. High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

St. Petersburg Combined Team Krumkol Peak, 4688 m, via North Ridge Timofeev's Route, 1967, Category 6A

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.5. From Kitlod Pass to Gezewcек Pass (north of the Main Caucasian Ridge)
2. Krumkol, 4688 m, via north ridge
3. Complexity Category — 6A;

XXXIV USSR Championship on Ice and Snow Climbing P place, 8.221 points, August 17, 1983

Report

On the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi Eastern (4918 m) via the left part of the North face — the second passage by the MAL "Kavkaz" team. Leader: Markelov V. V. Coach: Dobrovolsky L. N. 1983 International Alpine Camp: Address: 121069, Moscow, Skaterny per., 15 Phone: 290–23–67

Ascent Description

TO THE SUMMIT OF V. MIZHIRGI VIA THE N. RIDGE. Completed by the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering group. July 27 – August 1, 1962. The Mizhirgi peak (5027 m) is located in the Bezengi region of the Central Caucasus, at the center of one of the most complex ridges — Koshtan-Tau — Dykh-Tau. The north ridge ascending to the eastern summit of Mizhirgi from the Cheget-Mizhirgi glacier was first climbed by a Pelevin group in 1952. The ridge drops off towards Krumkol with a vertical rock wall, and towards Dykh-Tau with steep and avalanche-prone slopes. In the lower third, its steepness is around 70°, the remaining part is an icy ridge (40–60°) with several steps in the form of rock cliffs. The key sections of the route are the ridge exit and the pre-summit wall. The route is classified as 5B category difficulty. The MGS DSO "Trud" gathering group completed this ascent from July 28 to 31, 1962, with the following team members: Cheremisov V. 1st sports category — leader Tkachenko A. 1st sports category — participant Petiforov V. 1st sports category — participant Daruga V. 2nd sports category — participant

Ascent Description