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Route Description: З кф.
Report on the ascent of the unnamed peaks 6205 m and 6042 m in the Eastern Pamir, made by the Krasnoyarsk expedition in 1978.
Passport
- Climbs — high-altitude
- Climbing area — Eastern Pamir, Trans-Alay Range from the south
- Climbing routes — via the western slopes of the unnamed peaks 6205 and 6042
- Climbing characteristics: HEIGHT | 6205 | — 1095 m | | :------------ | :------: | | 6042 | — 932 m | | average steepness — 45° | |
Route Description: В кф. С гребня
The first ascent of the east wall of Peak Kyzyl-Ogyn (6679 m) in the Pamir Mountains, made in 1975 by a group of climbers from Chelyabinsk.
Ascent Logbook
- Ascent Category: High-altitude technical
- Ascent Area: Pamir, Zaalaysky Range
- Ascent Route with Summit Elevations: Kyzyl-Ogyn 6679 m via the eastern wall
- Ascent Characteristics:
- Elevation gain: 6679 m – 4600 m = 2080 m
- Average slope of the Eastern wall: 55°
- Average slope of the entire route (across the plateau): 40°
- Length of complex sections during ascent: 2285 m
- Pitons Used:
Route Description: с севера в лоб
Report on the ascent of the Azerbaijan Alpine Federation team to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via the 5A category route as part of the World Climbing Championship.
Alpinism Federation of Azerbaijan
Report
On the ascent to
PEAK IBN SINA (LENIN) 7134 m WORLD ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP. HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS. July 3 — July 23, 2012
Baku, 2012
1. Ascent Passport
- Region: Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Trans-Alay range
- Peak name: Lenin Peak
Route Description: с севера в лоб
Ascent to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via Arkin's Route (northern wall) in alpine style; 2700 m elevation gain; slope angle 40-45°; 4 days.
Climbing Report on Peak Lenin via Arkin's Route (Variation)
Climbing Details:
- Pamir. Peak Lenin, 7134 m. Via the center of the north face, Arkin's route. Route type – snow and ice. Route elevation gain 2700 m.
- Climbing style: alpine.
- Average steepness: main part of the route – 40–45°.
- Pitons left on the route: 0
Route Description: с пер. Крыленко
Report on the ascent of Peak Lenin (7134 m) from the south, a 5a category climb, made by a team of Lithuanian climbers in 1965.
CS "DSO "Zalgiris""
ASCENT TO LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE SOUTH 5A cat. sl. IN HONOR OF THE 25th ANNIVERSARY OF SOVIET LITHUANIA (report for the 1965 USSR Climbing Championship) Vilnius, 1965
II. BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LENIN PEAK REGION
Lenin Peak, with an elevation of 7134.3 m above sea level, is located in the middle part of the Trans-Alai Range and is its highest peak. The peak is connected to Peak Dzerzhinsky (6713 m) to the west and, via the Krylenko Pass (5820 m), to the ridge of Peak Edinstva (6673 m) to the east. To the south, in a spur of the Lenin Peak massif, lies the Moscow-Peking Peak (6852 m). The Lenin Glacier flows from the northern massifs of Lenin Peak. The southern slopes of the peak are drained by the glaciers:
- Big Sauk-Dara (to the east)
- Small Sauk-Dara (to the west) The elevation difference between Lenin Peak and the middle part of the Sauk-Dara Glacier is about 3000 m. The slopes of the peak are covered with glaciers and thick layers of firn snow. In some places, the slope steepness reaches 55°. The slopes are cut by crevices up to 100 m or more in depth. Snow avalanches and ice collapses are frequent. Atmospheric pressure at the summit (7134 m) is 290 mm. Lenin Peak is the third highest seven-thousander in the USSR and is quite popular among climbers due to its relatively easy access to the starting points of the ascent. Most ascents are made from the northern side, from the Lenin Glacier.
Route Description: кф. скалы Липкина
Ascent of Lenin Peak (7134 m) from the north via the spur through Lipkin Mt in 1967 by a Soviet expedition.
LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE NORTH VIA THE SPUR FROM LIPKINA PEAK.
Moscow – 1967
II. Preparation and Organization of the Ascent
In the autumn of 1966, the Moscow City Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Association decided to conduct a complex high-altitude expedition to the Pamir using collective travel vouchers. A coaching council was formed, consisting of Honored Master of Sports Ovchinnikov A.G., Master of Sports Bozhukov, and Honored Coach of the RSFSR Radel V.A. The head of the organizational committee was Master of Sports Galkin V.T., under whose leadership the preparations for the expedition were carried out. Training sessions were conducted according to a plan developed by the coaching council, three times a week, at the sports complexes:
- Bauman Moscow State Technical University (MSTU)
- Moscow State University (MSU)
- Tsaritsyno
- Khimki.
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню из ущ. М. Саукдара
Report on the first ascent of Peak Lenin's western ridge from the Malaia Sauk-Dara valley in 1969.
Report
On ascending Lenin Peak via the Southwest Ridge from the Malaia Sauk-Dara valley. First ascent - approximately Category 5B difficulty.
Climbing category — high-altitude.
Team leader: Yushin N.P. Coach: Honored Master of Sports Kuzmin K.K.
Moscow, 1969
www.alpfederation.ru
www.alpfederation.ru
Route Description: В стене с л. Б. Саукдара
Ascent of Lenin Peak via the south-east ridge of the south-eastern wall from Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier, category 5B.
1. Ascent Passport
- Region: Zaalai Range (North Pamir). Gorge: Sauksay Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.4
- Peak name: Lenin Peak. Route name: along the rib of the southern edge of the southeastern wall from the Bolshaya Saukdara Glacier.
- Proposed – 5B category of difficulty.
- Route type: snow-ice.
- Height difference of the route: 1709 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3911 m.
Route Description: ЮЗ ребру З гребня
Report on the ascent of the MAI mountaineering club team to Lenin Peak via the Southwest Edge of the West Ridge, first ascent, 5A difficulty level.
Report
On the ascent of the MAI Climbing Club team
to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via the Southwest Ridge of the West Crest (first ascent) from August 31 to September 2, 2012 Captain: A. Lebedev, Coach: A. Lebedev Ascent to Lenin Peak (7134 m) via the Southwest Ridge of the West Crest (first ascent)
Passport
- Region: Trans-Alay Range (Pamir) Valley: Malaya Saukdara, category according to the 2011 classifier — 4.4
- Name of the peak: Lenin Peak (7134 m)
Route Description: Ю стене З ребра
First ascent description of Jailyk peak (4533 m) in the Central Caucasus, via the right edge of the I bastion of the Western ridge, 5B complexity category.
Ascent Passport
I. Technical category 2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su, Kulumkol valleys 3. Jailyk peak via the right edge of the 1st Southern bastion of the Western ridge, 4533 m 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent 5. Height difference: 730 m, length — 1015 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 240 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 79° (3850–4100 m), including 6 cat. diff. — 75–95° (3905–4050 m) 6. Pitons hammered:
- rock: 53 (hammered) / 50 (left)
- bolt: 12 / 4
- chocks: 85 / 70