Castle

The Castle peak (650 m) rises several meters from the upper (old) road Yalta — Sevastopol near the village of Foros. To the left of the Castle is the Mshatka-Kaya mountain, and to the right is Maly Kilse-Burun. The most interesting routes on the Castle pass along the southern wall — these are the routes:

• 6A
• 5B This is 8 ropes of the wall section, not counting the "roof". The length of the routes is about 400 m. On the more gentle southeastern wall, there are several relatively simple routes:
• 1B
• 3B The southern wall of the Castle looms over the upper (old) road, which connected Sevastopol and Yalta for over 100 years. The steep wall with a smooth, mossy, and in some places overhanging lower part; a more gentle but crumbling upper part and several caves overgrown with ivy in the center — it inspires awe and trepidation. Three very complex routes have been laid out along it, serving as benchmarks for the highest level of climbing mastery:
• Route 1
• Route 2

Ка­ла­ных­ — Ка­я. 2. «Жу­чок» Massif: Ка­ла­ных­ — Ка­я (623 m) Map: Difficulty: 1Б Author: Лав­ри­нен­ко А., Це­ма Е. Year of route creation: 2016 Time to complete: 1­–3 hours Route description: The mountain Ка­ла­ных­ — Ка­я is located west of Иль­яс­ — Ка­я, directly above the Лас­пи tract. It is the highest point of the До­нгуз Ору­н massif. The "Жу­чок" route, 1Б category. From the "Миф" restaurant parking lot, go right — up the asphalt road to a large clearing. Across the clearing, at 11 o'clock, in the direction of the mountain. The approach is through terraces overgrown with forest; there is no clear trail. The starting point of the route is marked by a huge pine tree growing on a ledge in the lower part of the wall.

Kilse-Burun — 2

Via the third counterfort of the western part of the massif (a question), 2B category

The approach to the route begins slightly west of the campsite under Kilse-Burun, 50 m east of the "36/18" kilometer post of the old highway. First, left along the trail, and then up simple rocks to the exit to a long inclined terrace. Along it, 100 m to the right and up. Then turn left and ascend simple rocks to a small terrace at the base of a small rock circus located between the third and fourth counterforts of the western part of the massif (R0 section). On the R1–R2 section — in the central part of the obscured wall:

• initially 35 m up and to the right in the direction of a small ledge (R1–R2: 40 m, 75°, IV+). On the R2–R3 section — initially a little up, and then up and left to a separate pine on the ridge of the counterfort (R2–R3: 30 m, 75°, IV+). Further, routes #2 and #3 coincide. On the R3–R4 section — from the pine 10 m up and to the right along a 10-meter steep internal corner, and then 30 m up and left along the ridge (R3–R4: 10 m, 80°, IV+; 30 m, 70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up 80 m along the ridge of the counterfort to the exit to a large terrace. On it, the main part of the route ends (R4–R5: 80 m, 70°, III). Along the terrace (R5 section — yayla):

Through the center of the central part of the wall through the internal corner, 4B (methodology by A. Brynza, 1991)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend along a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend 8 meters up a steep internal corner to the start of a long inclined ledge. Then traverse along the ledge to the right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical cracks, and in the middle part, a large and deep internal corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I). On the R3–R4 section — first, 35 m up the right crack, then move left to a small ledge near the middle crack. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) up the middle crack to the exit into the large and deep internal corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+). On the R5–R6 section — first, 40 m along the scree to the steep part of the internal corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially along the wall, and then up the crack, ascend to a complex chimney. Climb it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By passing it on the right along a steep wall, exit onto a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 80°, V+). On the R6–R7 section — first, 20 m up and left along the scree, then up the left wall. Along an inclined ledge, exit onto a ridge and then up along it or the slabs (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 75°, V).

Kilse-Burun — 16. Through the central part of the wall through the inner corner, 5A (A. Brynza's route, 1991)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend via a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty inner corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend an 8-meter sheer inner corner to the start of a long sloping ledge. Then traverse the ledge right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical slots, and in the middle part, a large and deep inner corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I). On the R3–R4 section — first, ascend 35 m up the right slot, then move left to a small ledge near the middle slot. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) through the middle slot to the exit into the large and deep inner corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+). On the R5–R6 section — first, traverse 40 m of scree towards the steep section of the inner corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially, ascend the wall, then via a slot to a complex chimney. Ascend it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By-pass it on the right via a sheer wall to reach a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, easy; 40 m, 80°, V+). On the R6–R7 section — first, ascend 20 m via scree up and left, then via the left wall. Ascend a sloping ledge to a ridge and then ascend it or the slabs above (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, easy; 40 m, 75°, V).

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class
2. Region Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak Kush-Kaya
4. Route via South wall, "уголок" (corner)
5. Cat. diff. 5B, first ascent
6. Route characteristics: height difference — 325 m. Length — 390 m. Average steepness — 57°
7. Piton usage: rock pitons — 32 pcs., petal pitons — 6 pcs.

Merdven-Kayas — 16. "Right Slope"

Massif: Merdven-Kayas (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 3А V Authors: A. Lavri­nenko, O. Po­pov Year of creation: 2012 Number of pitches: 8 Time to complete: 3–4 hours Route description: A logical line that leads up a couloir to the ridge and then through a complex wall to the summit. The route is monolithic, but there are loose rocks on the gentler sections of the couloir. It is hazardous in rain and during snowmelt. Not recommended for large groups. The approach starts from where a dirt road leads to the base of Khergiani rock. Follow the trail upwards, bearing right to bypass Khergiani rock, then up a couloir (with some simple scrambling) to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Traverse right along the terrace and descend to the base of the couloir. R0–R1: 60 m

• Up the simple rocks of the couloir to the left to reach a tree
• From the tree, traverse right, then upwards
• Belay station on a ledge with personal anchors

"Fnesta" Route 4A 270 m 6a/5cA1 Lavri­nenko A., Mi­ryuk O.

The ap­proach be­gins from the place where a dirt road goes to the Khergiani rock. Up the path, bearing right, bypassing the Khergiani rock, then through a couloir (some simple climbing) to a large inclined grassy ledge. Up along it — to the base of an internal corner where the route begins. R0–R1 55 m 5c Always up the corner, the difficulty gradually increases. Protection with large stoppers and friends; several trees are encountered. The belay station is on a tree at the beginning of a wide chimney. R1–R2 60 m 5c Up the chimney, pass under a plug, then:

• along a ledge slightly right,
• up, bearing left, towards an internal corner formed by a large boulder and the main wall. The entire pitch is very easy except for 7 m through the internal corner. Above the corner — along a ledge left, to a juniper, with a belay station on it.

G. Merdven kaya (856 m) via the center of the SW wall "Fal'start" 5B, approximately.

Tsushko T., Khomenko A., 13–14.01.08 The approach from the upper road takes 10 minutes. The start of the route is a long crack that leads to a flattening. Further, along the rocks of medium difficulty, move towards a huge chimney-crack, through which you exit to the yayla. The route length is about 350 m. R0–R1. First, a crawl, then up to A-2 through the crack (a bolt is hammered 15 m above the ground). At the belay station: bolt + own. The crack is partially destroyed; in some places, it's better to belay from the left and right walls away from the crack. 45 m. 1–2 First, through the crack to A-2 — 35 m, then climb the chimney — 10 m, and exit to an inclined ledge. Along the ledge, left and up to a tree. Near the tree, the belay station: bolt + nuts; the tree does not inspire confidence. 53–55 m. 2–3 Along the ledge, left and up, then easy climbing:

• first, up the slab,
• then up the flake,
• we climb to a flattening; on the left, there's a large pine.

Sokol — 23 45 m, 85′ Sokol, m-t "Zapятая" 5A, F6b (or V+, A1), 230 m

Description prepared by: Maksim Kostrov and Olga Kostrova

From the asphalted observation deck on the road, move first along the slope overgrown with forest, then:

• left along the rocky mulde to a long shelf going left;
• from the shelf to the right upwards along the slabs and trees to a large shelf under the wall.