G. Merdven kaya (856 m) via the center of the SW wall "Fal'start" 5B, approximately.
Tsushko T., Khomenko A., 13–14.01.08
The approach from the upper road takes 10 minutes. The start of the route is a long crack that leads to a flattening. Further, along the rocks of medium difficulty, move towards a huge chimney-crack, through which you exit to the yayla. The route length is about 350 m.
R0–R1. First, a crawl, then up to A-2 through the crack (a bolt is hammered 15 m above the ground). At the belay station: bolt + own. The crack is partially destroyed; in some places, it's better to belay from the left and right walls away from the crack. 45 m.
1–2 First, through the crack to A-2 — 35 m, then climb the chimney — 10 m, and exit to an inclined ledge. Along the ledge, left and up to a tree. Near the tree, the belay station: bolt + nuts; the tree does not inspire confidence. 53–55 m.
2–3 Along the ledge, left and up, then easy climbing:
- first, up the slab,
- then up the flake,
- we climb to a flattening; on the left, there's a large pine.
Along the flattening, right and up to a tree. The belay station is on the tree, approximately directly above the previous one. 50 m.
4–5A 3–4. Easy climbing up and slightly right to a ledge with a juniper. Along the ledge, left — 5 m, then up through cracks. The belay station is on a small tree. 50 m.
5B 3–4. Easy climbing through inclined cracks, then to a large talus ledge, and further through the ledge. The belay station is on hooks to the right of the base of a large chimney. 50 m.
5B 5–6. From the belay station, left and up through the left part of the chimney. The belay station is immediately above a large jam in the chimney, on a ledge with a tree — the belay station is on anchors and nuts. 45–50 m.
5B–5C 6–7. From the belay station, up through the chimney: first, complex, then simple. We exit to the ridge. 55 m. 5C–6A
Required equipment:
- nuts, mainly large and medium, sometimes small (take more medium-sized ones)
- anchors
- large-size cams
- flat and box-shaped pitons