Merdven-Kayas — 16. "Right Slope"

Massif: Merdven-Kayas (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 3А V Authors: A. Lavri­nenko, O. Po­pov

Year of creation: 2012 Number of pitches: 8 Time to complete: 3–4 hours

Route description: A logical line that leads up a couloir to the ridge and then through a complex wall to the summit. The route is monolithic, but there are loose rocks on the gentler sections of the couloir. It is hazardous in rain and during snowmelt. Not recommended for large groups.

The approach starts from where a dirt road leads to the base of Khergiani rock. Follow the trail upwards, bearing right to bypass Khergiani rock, then up a couloir (with some simple scrambling) to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Traverse right along the terrace and descend to the base of the couloir.

R0–R1: 60 m

• Up the simple rocks of the couloir to the left to reach a tree
• From the tree, traverse right, then upwards
• Belay station on a ledge with personal anchors

II

R1–R2: 60 m

• Up through a small wall
• Then up gentle rocks and grassy ledges

Belay before a large internal angle. Place the belay as far right as possible.

R2–R3: 45 m

• Up the left side of the angle, with smooth rocks
• Then up the angle-couloir to a gentler section

Belay on the right side of the couloir, on a tree. 35 m III+; 10 m I

R3–R4: 45 m Up simple rocks on the left side of the couloir, beneath a steep wall. Belay on personal anchors and a small tree. I

R4–R5: 50 m

• Up the wall with cracks, left of the angle, to reach a ledge with a tree
• Along the inclined ledge right to trees

Belay can be made on a tree, but it's more convenient higher on the ledge with personal anchors. 30 m III; 20 m easy

R5–R6: 55 m. Up the angle-couloir, overgrown with bushes and trees. Belay on a small tree before a crux. II+

R6–R7: 20 m. Approach the crux. The crux is bypassed on the right. Then up to a horizontal ridge.

List:

• 5 m IV
• 15 m II

R7–R8: 45 m. Up несложным ска­лам, подой­ти к внут­рен­не­му уг­лу with 2 cracks. Start up the left crack, then move to the right crack, up it to a ledge. Move 3 meters left, and up large blocky rocks to the left onto a plateau.

List:

• 10 m III
• 10 m V
• 25 m III+