"Fnesta" Route 4A 270 m 6a/5cA1 Lavrinenko A., Miryuk O.
The approach begins from the place where a dirt road goes to the Khergiani rock. Up the path, bearing right, bypassing the Khergiani rock, then through a couloir (some simple climbing) to a large inclined grassy ledge. Up along it — to the base of an internal corner where the route begins.
R0–R1 55 m 5c
Always up the corner, the difficulty gradually increases. Protection with large stoppers and friends; several trees are encountered.
The belay station is on a tree at the beginning of a wide chimney.
R1–R2 60 m 5c
Up the chimney, pass under a plug, then:
- along a ledge slightly right,
- up, bearing left, towards an internal corner formed by a large boulder and the main wall.
The entire pitch is very easy except for 7 m through the internal corner. Above the corner — along a ledge left, to a juniper, with a belay station on it.
R2–R3 53 m 5b
From the station, along an inclined grassy ledge left to a pine tree, not reaching it:
- 5 m up an internal corner,
- then up and right, towards a destroyed internal corner.
Carefully up the corner, to a pine tree, from it up and right, through a simple internal corner, to a large pine tree with a belay station. Protection is piton plus trees.
3–4, 40 m, 6a
Up an internal corner to a tree. From the tree, through a crack — difficult climbing, protection with large stoppers and friends.
Behind a bend — a ledge. Along it left and up, to a more comfortable ledge. Here it's convenient to make a belay station.
4–5 60 m 5c–6a. From the station up and right, through 2 small junipers, then 5 m right and up a crack, protection with medium and large stoppers. 2 trees remain on the left; there's no need to go to them.
The crack gradually turns left and, through a small overhang, leads to the yayla.
The route is logical but requires some navigation skills. On the 3rd pitch, the rocks are fragile; climb very carefully! It's advisable to take a 60 m rope, but you can manage with a 50 m one — there are enough trees; only on the last pitch will you need to make a belay station on nuts or pitons.
Must take with you:
- Pitons
Time to complete — 4 hours. Descent via "Chortova Lestnitsa" (Devil's Staircase).
The most pleasant thing is that in summer, the sun appears on the route after 11:00. About 10 good routes are directed to Merdven-kyasy, with difficulties from 3 to 5.
They say that everything is explored in Crimea! The main thing is to have the desire. Besides our routes, the following were added:
- Solo ascent on the right part of Maksimimenya
- Shaanakaya via the center — Voloshanovsky and company
- Ai-yaya — Novsilcev — Dashkevich
- Chelebi — Dulnev — Zaytsev
- Sokol — Kuzmitsky — Kholodov
