Moscow City Council

VSS "TRUD" TRAVERSING THE BEZENGI WALL WITH ASCENT TO SHKHAra VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE 1960 Leader: Gavrilov B. A. Participants:

• Moiseev Yu. A.
• Mosunov A. A.
• Chereshkin D. S. In July-August 1960, a gathering of qualified climbers from the Moscow City Council of VSS "Trud" was held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp. The plan included participating in the Moscow championship in the traverse class. The Bezengi Wall was chosen as the object, whose traverse with ascent to Shkhara via the northern ridge had only been done once before in 1948 by a group from VSS "Spartak" led by Honored Master of Sports Abalakov V. M.

Ascent Report

1. Caucasus, Rocky Range, Cherek gorge.
2. Ekrzdyggen peak, 3160 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed - 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 915 m (GPS) Route length: 1300 m. Average slope of the entire route - 35°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total: 0; including bolted: 0.

209. The 4310 m peak via the Northeast ridge (a combined route, category B. Solovyov, 3B category of difficulty, fig. 18, 25). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp (a group of 4-8 people) to the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Bezengi glacier with a starting bivouac at the Kel pass is described in route 215. Across the plateau, approach the right side of the Northeast ridge of the 4310 m peak. From the glacier, ascend an 80-90-meter slope to a saddle on the Northeast ridge of the 4310 m peak. On the saddle, turn right and traverse along the left side of the Northeast ridge to cross a 10-meter ice-and-snow couloir (rockfall, avalanches). Ascend 100-150 m up and left along simple rocks and ledges on the left side of the couloir to reach the Northeast ridge. From here, ascend 50-60 m on simple rocks. Then, ascend 120-150 m along the steep ice-and-snow Northeast ridge, leaving a gendarme on the left and ice drops on the right, to reach an ice-and-snow pad. From the pad, ascend 80-100 m up a steep ice-and-snow Northeast ridge (cornices, protection) to approach a wall. Under the wall, traverse 20-25 m left along the boundary of rocks and snow. Then, ascend 60-70 m up and right on moderately difficult rocks to reach the Northeast ridge. Further, ascend 30-40 m to the 4310 m peak. From the Kel pass - 7-9 hours.

• Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Krumkol glacier valley. KMGV section number: 2.5
• Peak: 4443 via the Southwest couloir and Northwest ridge.
• Category of complexity: proposed 4A category, first ascent.
• Route character: combined.
• Height difference: about 1000 m.
• Route length: about 1500 m, including:
  • length of rock sections IV — 25 m,
  • rock sections III — 45 m,
  • ice sections with a slope of at least 40° — 200 m.
• Number of pitons used:

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko-named CSKA team

To the summit of Prividenie (Ghost) 3809 m

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°2′37.71″ N, 43°16′25.86″ E) via the Northern slope First ascent, presumably category 2B Zaryaev V.V. – Galimzyanov T.R.

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader – Zaryaev Vladimir Valerievich¹ 1st sports category Address: 117465, Moscow, Profsoyuznaya str., 156, bld. 1, apt. 384.

Russian Championship in Alpinism 2020. Class of Altitudinal-Technical Ascents.

Report on the Traverse of Krumkol (4688 m) – Dykhtau Gl. (5205 m), via Route 6B cat. dif. by the Combined Team of Voronezh Region and Moscow Region for the Period from July 15 to July 22, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

Bartuy

The Bartuy peak (4000 m) is located in the Main ridge between the Gebe peak to the northwest and the Kain peak to the southeast, in the upper reaches of the Bartuy glacier to the north and the Kirtysh glacier to the south. The only route was climbed by N. Tizengauzen, A. Bratolyubov, and B. Shcherbakov on August 12, 1933, via the southeast ridge from the Bartuy glacier. 78. Bartuy via the Southeast ridge (combined route, category 1B) The path from the Dzanaga settlement (group of 4-20 people) to the upper firn plateau at the top of the Second step of the Bartuy glacier's icefall is described in route 80. From the plateau, go right and upwards to pass the Third step of the icefall of the Western branch, then ascend a gentle slope with a bergschrund in the lower part to reach the saddle of the Main ridge between the Bartuy peak to the right and the Kain peak to the left. On the saddle, turn right and ascend simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeast ridge to reach the summit of Bartuy. Descend via the ascent route. The duration of the route from the Dzanaga settlement is 3-4 days. Naumov A. F. Karagom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

fig. 3 5. Galdor Main via South Ridge (combined route by A. Alexandrova, 4A category of complexity, fig. 3). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the moraine leading to the Galdor glacier is described in route 1. From the moraine, traverse right and upwards along the talus slopes to approach a wide couloir descending southwest from the South Ridge of Galdor Main. From here, ascend a wide, gradually narrowing, steep snow-ice 600-700-meter couloir (rockfall possible) that becomes talus in the upper part, to beneath the rock walls of the South Ridge. The ascent includes:

• 20-30 m of steep 'sheep's foreheads' (loose rocks - piton protection);
• then simple slabs with snow sections to a 'South' ridge platform. The platform serves as the initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" meadow, it takes 5-6 hours. From the platform, turn left and follow the simple 'South' ridge to approach a rock step. Ascend 120-140 m of rocks of above average difficulty (loose rocks, piton protection) up the left side of the ridge to the step.

Fig. 3 6. Galdor Main via Western Ridge (combined route by I. Suzhaev, category 4B, Fig. 3). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) to the moraine leading to the Galdor glacier is described in route 1. From here, ascend the moraines to the Galdor glacier. Then, moving up the steep glacier, overcome a crevasse cutting across it on the left side, and cross over to the right side. Further, staying on the right side (rockfall is possible from the left), approach the saddle of the Sugansky ridge between the peaks of Tsukhgarty on the left and Galdor Main on the right. From the glacier, ascend a steep ice-snow slope, then scree, to the saddle, where a bivouac is set up. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, it takes 4 hours. On the saddle, turn right and reach the rocks of the Western ridge of Galdor Main. Along the simple, heavily destroyed Western ridge, approach the first pinnacle. Overcome this and the subsequent second pinnacle head-on via moderately difficult rocks. Further, along simple rocks, reach the third pinnacle. Overcome it via rocks of above-average difficulty head-on up a 20-meter wall (piton belay), and then bypass the pinnacle's summit on the right via steep rocks. Beyond the pinnacle:

• first, along a ledge on the right side of the ridge;
• then, along destroyed rocks, approach the main rock ascent of the Western ridge.

Passport

1. Rock Climbing Category

1. Rock Climbing Category.
2. Central Caucasus. Digor Gorge.
3. Main Galdor peak via the Southeast wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. Route height difference — 417 m, length — 490 m.
6. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 376 m.
7. Average steepness of sections with 4–6 cat. diff. — 77.
8. Of which 6 cat. diff. — 104 m with a steepness of 90–95°.