Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical. 2. Region of Ascent, Ridge: Central Tien-Shan, Kokshal-Tau ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Slantsevaya; 4970 m, via the northern ridge. 4. Presumed difficulty category: 4A 35 48 / 681. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 580 m, length of section with 5th category of difficulty — 40 m, average steepness — 55° 6. Number of pitons driven: | | rock | ice | bolted |

Pik Propeller. 4551 m

Propeller is the final ascent of a gentle snowy ridge running southeast, which branches off from the southwestern part of g. Karниз. It drops to l. Chon-Turasu with a sheer rock wall. The ascent is done from pass Moldova and takes one day.

Peaks Druzhba and Promezhutochnyi. 4450 m

The peaks are located in the main ridge and enclose the cirque of l. Nalivkina. Peak Druzhba is an elevation in a sharp ridge—rocky to the east and icy with cornices to the west; Peak Promezhutochnyi is an elevation of this icy ridge. To l. Nalivkina, the ridge drops with a smooth 70-degree ice wall; to the south is a snowy-icy slope, the last meters before the summit are just as steep. Peak Promezhutochnyi is an elevation of this icy ridge. The peaks are small snow-covered areas. To the east of the summit area of p. Druzhba are rock "feathers" of equal height. The ascents are done from l. Ototash. Having ascended to pass K-3 (in the upper l. Ototash) via steep, usually ice-covered rocks, one reaches p. Promezhutochnyi. Further along the ridge with huge cornices, one moves toward peak Druzhba. Along the way, it is necessary to hammer in 6–8 ice screws because the upper part of the ridge reaches a steepness of 60°.

Peaks 40-let Oktyabrya and prof. Gorelik.

Table

of the main characteristics of the first ascent route to the Tian-Shan peak via the northwestern ridge, category 3B difficulty The time of departure from the overnight stay location is 8:30. The total number of walking hours per day is 4 hours. The overnight stay conditions are good. Further descent is via the ascent route.

Description of Approaches to the Start of Routes to Peaks in the Chon-Uryukty Glacier Area

From the base camp at the fork of the Chon-Uryukty River, follow the trail south to Mahabatkol Lake (40 min.), then along the valley along the stream to the base of the moraine up a steep grassy slope, and then up a steep scree to ascend to the moraine of the Chon-Uryukty glacier. (40–50 min.) Continue past the glacial lake to the northern slopes of Crystal Peak. (40 min.) Here are the starting points for the routes:

• Via the NE edge, category 3A difficulty
• North ridge, category 2B difficulty to Crystal Peak. From this location, it takes 1 hour to walk south, bypassing the eastern ridge of Crystal Peak, to the base of the couloir where routes to Dragon Peak via the western ridge and Crystal Peak via the SE ridge begin. To access the route to Aisulu Peak via the North ridge, from Mahabatbatkul Lake, head south along the valley for 15 minutes, then left up a steep grassy slope with individual rock outcrops to a wide area. (40 min.) Continue southeast along the lateral moraine of the glacier to the foot of a rocky outcrop. Here, ascend to the moraine and move south towards the North ridge of the peak:
• first across rocks,
• then across ice. To access the route to Ruslan Peak via the North ridge, from Mahabatbatkul Lake, follow the trail south, then west for 30 minutes, then ascend to the moraine opposite the North ridge of Ruslan Peak and move along it towards the base of the couloir through which the route passes. (1 hour)

Ascent Passport

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — combined
2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge
3. Peak — DEMON, height — 3980 m, route — via Eastern wall, COMBINED
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics — height difference — 550 m — average steepness — 65° — sections of 5th difficulty category — 110 m
6. Pitons hammered

I. Climbing category - combined 2. Climbing region - Tian Shan, Kunghey Ala-Too 3. Peak PARUS, height 4130 m, route via N ridge, combined 4. Estimated difficulty category - 2A 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 550 m
• average slope - 20°
• sections of 5th difficulty category - none

6. Pitons hammered in:
   • for belaying - 10 chocks, for creating artificial anchors - none

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent region — Tian-Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge
3. Peak — Parus, height 4130 m via the East ridge from Parus glacier, comb
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 590 m
   • average steepness — 25°
   • sections of 5th category — none
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

1 Ascent class — combined 2 Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge 3 Peak — Urrkty, height — 3930 m, route via East combined. 4 Assumed difficulty category — 2B 5 Route characteristics:

• height difference 500 m
• average slope 35°
• sections of 5th cat. diff. I5 m ? ? ? ?? 6 Number of pitons driven:
• for belaying — 3, for creating I.T.O. — none
• rock pitons — 3

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Sarydzhan range, Marble Wall glacier.
2. Traverse of peaks Karlytau (5450 m) – Marble Wall (6400 m) from Marble Wall glacier, first ascent.
3. Submitted – 5B cat. diff. (tentative).
4. Route character — combined.
5. Route height difference — 2030 m. Route length – 4316 m. Length of sections: V cat. diff. – 2500 m, VI cat. diff. – 300 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (sections?) – 70°

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8