Climbing Passport

I. Climbing type: technical II. Climbing area: Western Pamir, Mazarsy ridge, Mazar valley III. Peak, altitude, route: Peak Soviet Olympians (p. 5347) via the right buttress of the southern wall; name proposed by the first ascenders IV. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff., first ascent V. Route characteristics: height difference 1420 m, length – 1625 m (of which V and VI cat. diff. – 1425 m) Steepness – 61°; in the lower and middle part of the route, there is no water for 850 m (in the second half of summer). VI. Number of pitons: 203 (rock pitons – 191, bolt pitons – 12), of which 33 for creating artificial anchors (ITO) VII. Number of walking hours: 74 h 30 min VIII. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

PASSPORT

1. Class of first ascents 2. Pamir, Darvaz Range 3. Peak Suraysha, via the right bastion of the eastern wall 4. Proposed — 6B category of complexity, first ascent 5. Height difference — 1405 m, length: wall — 1675 m, ridge — 300–400 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1095 m. Average steepness: ice — 52°, rocky part — 76°, overall wall — 88°, including 6B category of complexity 83° (4700–4910), 82° (5030–5270) 6. Pitons driven:

3. Non-trivial ascents on the route Тбу­мцу V — А Kam. on the right side according to the special task in the "5200" camp.

1. ASCENT CLASS: High-altitude-technical.
2. ASCENT AREA: Mazarsky Ridge, Pamir.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Peak 5772 m (central summit) via the southwestern edge (first ascent).
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B, first ascent.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 2572 m, length of sections with 5B difficulty category — 1135 m, average steepness:
   • approach to the start of the southwestern edge — 35° (with a height difference of 270 m),
   • along the southwestern edge — 50° (with a height difference of 1930 m),
   • along the pre-summit ridge — 55° (with a height difference of 372 m),
   • entire ascent route (from the glacier to the summit) — 55°.

First ascents of Peak 5285m

(p. Akik-Toо)

Peak 5285m is located in the western part of the main Zavlastnoy ridge, at the junction with the ridge where p. Sverdlova is situated. The ascent was made from the intermediate camp at 3800m of the Sverdlov Jubilee expedition. The intermediate base camp at 3800m was located on the old side, covered with grass, near a small lake, in the upper reaches of the Kok-Kyik gorge. The path from the 3800m camp goes along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Kyik river across a grassy slope. After 40–50 minutes of walking, there is an exit to the scree, where you need to turn right, bypassing the spurs of p. Kuznetsova. After an hour and a half to two hours of walking, there is a pass through the ridge coming from Peak 5150m (p. Metallurgov Urala). It takes 20–30 minutes to overcome the ridge. Behind the ridge, a flat black lateral moraine begins (orographically left moraine of the Kok-Kyik glacier), which leads almost under the route. On the flat moraine, it's not hard to find a convenient spot for tents. The height is 4200m. The entire approach from the 3800m camp takes 3–4 hours. The approach to the wall is made across the closed glacier. Closer to the wall, you need to walk between avalanche deposits. One or two rope lengths before the wall, there is a bergschrund, which is overcome via a snow bridge. Further, across the ice-firn slope, we exit with insurance under the beginning of the rock section. The ascent begins at the border of the rusty wall with black rocks (like sheep's foreheads) on the left. Further:

• Along an inclined ledge up to the right for 10–15m;

Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing

Report on the First Ascent to the Summit 5368 (Peak Alexandr Gubaev) via the Northwest Slope, Category 3B

Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2008

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Zaalai Ridge. Valley: Kyzylsu (East Kyzylsu Glacier). Section number according to the 2001 classification table — 4.4
2. Summit name: 5368, proposed — Peak Alexandr Gubaev. Route name: via the northwest slope
3. Category of difficulty — proposed 3B.
4. Route type: ice and snow.

ASCENSION PASSPORT

1. Type of ascension — High-altitude and technical.
2. Area of ascension — Zaalayskiy Ridge, Pamir.
3. Peaks, their height, ascension route — Traverse of p. XIX Partsezd (5920 m) – p. Spartak (6183 m) – p. Razdelnaya (6148 m) – p. Lenin (7134 m), with ascent to the Southern peak of p. XIX Partsezd via the western ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3000 m, length of sections: 1st category of difficulty — none, 2nd category of difficulty — 325 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 4230 m, 4th category of difficulty — 5930 m, 5th category of difficulty — 450 m. Average steepness — 30°.
6. Number of pitons used: for creating artificial support points — none, for belaying — 18. Among them, rock pitons — 8, ice pitons — 10, screw pitons — none.
7. Number of walking hours — 54 hours, 6 days.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 5 nights, lying down.

Peak XIX Partezda (5920 m), approximately category 5A, northwestern spur of the western ridge For the Leningrad city championship in the ice and snow class Team coach Master of Sports Stepanov I.V. Leningrad 1982

• Traverse by the Leningrad State University team: Peak XIX Partezda, Peak Spartak, Peak Lenin, Peak Razdel'naya

Route diagram according to ΦΙΛΑ

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM CAMP "PAMIR-79" Traverse of Peak Dzerzhinsky (6713) - Peak Lenin (7134) on July 8-14, 1979, category 5B difficulty, by a team of coaches from MAL "Pamir-79". Participants:

1. Stepanov I.E. - MS - team leader
2. Markelov V.V. - MS - participant
3. Lurye E.R. - MS - participant
4. Kalmykov S.G. - MS - participant Coach - Honored Coach of the RSFSR Ovchinnikov A.G. One of the highest peaks of the Trans-Alai range - Peak 6713 - was named Peak Dzerzhinsky in 1928 during a Soviet-German expedition led by N.P. Gorbunov. The honor of the first ascent to this peak belongs to a group consisting of E. Beletsky and I. Fedorov. In 1936, they made an assault on Peak Dzerzhinsky via Peak Razdel'naya (from Lenin Glacier) and ascended to the summit from the upper reaches of Dzerzhinsky Glacier along its eastern slope. In 1960 - the year of the 90th anniversary of V.I. Lenin's birth - two top teams completed traverses (as part of the USSR Championship) of Peak Dzerzhinsky. From August 1-12, 1960, a team from the CS "Spartak" led by V.A. Abalakov completed a traverse of:

• Razdel'naya

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category 2. Central Caucasus, Adyr-Su, Kulumkol valleys 3. Jailyk peak via the right edge of the 1st Southern bastion of the Western ridge, 4533 m 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff., first ascent 5. Height difference: 730 m, length — 1015 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 240 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 79° (3850–4100 m), including 6 cat. diff. — 75–95° (3905–4050 m) 6. Pitons hammered:

• rock: 53 (hammered) / 50 (left)
• bolt: 12 / 4
• chocks: 85 / 70