Report

On the ascent to the summit of Misses via the right spur on the Wall, category 5B, by the team from KAiS MEI from August 9, 2019, to August 13, 2019.

I. Climbing Report

Central Federal District Climbing Championship 2022 (altitude and technical class) Report on the ascent of Misses peak (4425 m) via the right buttress on the wall, Yu. Shevchenko 1976, 5B cat. difficulty The route was completed by a team from St. Petersburg - Moscow Moscow 2022

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, 2.5. From Kithlod pass to Gezhevek pass (north of the Main Caucasian Range)
2. Misses peak (4425 m) via the right buttress on the wall, Yu. Shevchenko 1976

1. Climbing Report for the Ascent of Misses-Tau via the Right Counterfort in the Wall, Category 5B (Combined) Route by Yu. Shevchenko's Mixed Team from Magnitogorsk and Yekaterinburg "MiKraLip" from 17:00 on August 17, 2024, to 17:00 on August 21, 2024

1. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge, 2.5. From Kittlod pass to Gezivcek pass (from the north from the Main Caucasian Ridge).
2. Name of the peak: Misses-Tau, name of the route through the center of the Eastern wall.
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, second ascent.
4. Nature of the route: combined
5. Height difference of the route: 980 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1492 m. Length of sections:

• V category of difficulty — 295 m.
• VI category of difficulty — 165 m. Average steepness:

St. Petersburg Alpinism Championship 2020 (high-altitude technical class) Report on the ascent to the summit of Misses-Tau (4427 m) via the center of the W wall, 5B category of complexity The route was completed by the team of FASPb St. Petersburg 2020

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge Section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Summit Misses-Tau, 4427 m, via the center of the W wall (2002) 4th ascent.
3. Category of complexity – 5B.

TO THE QUALIFICATION COMMISSION FASIL ST. PETERSBURG

St. Petersburg Championship in mountaineering in the high-altitude and technical class 2012

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MISSES-TAU (4427 m) VIA THE CENTER OF THE EASTERN WALL, 5B cat. dif. team captain: Molodozhen V. A. team coaches: Lobachev E. A. Timoshenko T. I. St. Petersburg 2012

Ascent Passport

159. Orto­kara via the North Ridge

(combined route, category 2B, fig. 14, 17). The path from the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people) to the upper plateau of the Shaurtu glacier under the northern slopes of Orto­kara with a starting bivouac at the end of the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the Shaurtu glacier is described in route 154. Cross the glacier plateau to the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Orto­kara. From the glacier, pass through the bergschrund snow bridge and ascend the snowy slope to the ice-and-snow North Ridge of Orto­kara. Along the left side of the North Ridge, approach the first 40-50-meter rock outcrop. Pass the outcrop via simple rocks on the left. Then, along the left side of the steep and sharp ice-and-snow North Ridge, ascend 250-300 m

Peak Oktabrenok via NW wall — 5B (3890) The transition from the "green camps" of Dumala gorge via l. Ululu-Auz to the big rocky island, to the left of the buttress of p. Pioneer, takes about 1 hour. Ascent through the bergschrund and then up the steep snowy slope (50%) about 5–6 ropes to the right of the rocky island - the shoulder of p. Pioneer with an exit to its summit. Here is a safe place to spend the night and a good observation point. From here:

• 2 ropes up to the right of the rocky tongue with an exit into the couloir
• 60 m of easy and moderate difficulty rocks along the couloir
• The next 80 m of moderate difficulty path should be traversed, rising gradually above the couloir by 8–25 m, partially using rocky ledges. Insurance from the start of the entrance to the couloir is only крючьевая [hook] and very strict. Movement along the right wall of the couloir at a height of up to 25 m is quite reliably protected from falling stones and possible ice falls from the left glacier. The bend of the buttress of p. Pioneer protects from falling stones from the right. It is from the bend that the dangerous sections begin, requiring clear, quick work, the section of transition to the lower part of the wall of p. Oktabrenok. On the day of reconnaissance and processing, the group worked on the route for 6 hours. The ascent path was processed up to the angle of turn of the right wall of the couloir. 120 m of rope were hung. 10 hooks were hammered.

25. Panoramnaya Peak via East Ridge - Cat. 2B (A. Ermolaev, V. Vexler, A. Dobrushin and A. Kiselev - August 5, 1963; Fig. 7, 8). The path from the Bezengi alpbase to the bivouac on the South Ridge of Utug rock pinnacle is described in 18°. From the ridge, descend to the snowy plateau of the glacier, above the third step of the icefall and along it to the left and upwards, parallel to the ridge. From the glacier, to the left and up a snowy couloir to the saddle of the South Ridge below Utug rock pinnacle. From the saddle, make a 60–70-meter descent to the Southeastern plateau of Panoramnaya Peak. Ascend across the plateau, then up a snowy slope to the left of a rock pinnacle and to the right of a small rocky outcrop to the saddle on the East Ridge of Panoramnaya Peak. Ascend along the snowy (watch out for cornices!) and easy rocky ridge to below the rocky tower of Panoramnaya Peak. Traverse rocky, heavily snowed ledges (belays required!) to the left of the tower, spiralling left and upwards to the summit of Panoramnaya Peak. From the initial bivouac - 4–5 hours. Descent via the ascent route - 2–3 hours. Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants - 4–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - South Ridge of Utug rock pinnacle.
3. Departure time - 4:00.
4. Equipment: main rope - 2 × 30 m; auxiliary cord - 2 m; rock pitons - 2–3; ice screws - 3–4; rock hammer - 1; carabiners - 8; crampons - 4 pairs; tent - 1.
5. Bivouac sites - on glaciers and their moraines, on the Southeastern plateau of Panoramnaya Peak.

Panoramnaya Peak via North wall — Cat. 4B The path from the “Bezengi” base camp to the first stage of the Mizhirgi icefall can be seen in the description of the ascent route to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak from Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass. 70 m ascent up a steep firn slope from the bergschrund. The rocky cape is bypassed on the left on the ice, then 35 m on simple rocks to the right – exit to the site of this cape. From the site 70 m up the stepped (destroyed) rocks. 50 m traverse left under the steep wall, then 3 m up the plate. From here 50 m to the right, then ascent on the plates to the sites of the lower rocky belt. From the sites up the ice-snow slope to under the rocky island. Traverse under it left-up to a steep ice shelf and fully up-right, then up a 3-meter icy vertical groove. Further up 60–70 m on a steep bowl-shaped ice slope (belay!) and on 50 m snowy rocks of medium difficulty – exit to the site in the upper part of the island. There is a control tour on the sites. From the site 100–120 m up the ice-snow slope to the light-brown wall of the North buttress of the Utës spire. 20 m right under the wall. Then up a 4–5 m chimney and 120–130 m on snowy, destroyed tile-like rocks of medium difficulty of the buttress. The 4-meter rocky ascent of the buttress is passed on the right side of the inner corner (belay!). And on the snow-ice slope left of the rocky ridge ascent under the second ascent. 10 m to the right under the ascent and up a 10–12-meter cleft up-left (piton!). 60–70 m up-left from the ascent on a steep snow-ice slope and snowy ridge – exit to the saddle between the Utës spire and Panoramnaya Peak. From the saddle left, on the snowy ridge (cornices!) and on simple rocks ascent to Panoramnaya Peak. 8–12 hours from the glacier to the summit.