- Panoramnaya Peak via East Ridge - Cat. 2B (A. Ermolaev, V. Vexler, A. Dobrushin and A. Kiselev - August 5, 1963; Fig. 7, 8).
The path from the Bezengi alpbase to the bivouac on the South Ridge of Utug rock pinnacle is described in 18°. From the ridge, descend to the snowy plateau of the glacier, above the third step of the icefall and along it to the left and upwards, parallel to the ridge. From the glacier, to the left and up a snowy couloir to the saddle of the South Ridge below Utug rock pinnacle. From the saddle, make a 60–70-meter descent to the Southeastern plateau of Panoramnaya Peak. Ascend across the plateau, then up a snowy slope to the left of a rock pinnacle and to the right of a small rocky outcrop to the saddle on the East Ridge of Panoramnaya Peak. Ascend along the snowy (watch out for cornices!) and easy rocky ridge to below the rocky tower of Panoramnaya Peak. Traverse rocky, heavily snowed ledges (belays required!) to the left of the tower, spiralling left and upwards to the summit of Panoramnaya Peak. From the initial bivouac - 4–5 hours. Descent via the ascent route - 2–3 hours.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants - 4–8 people.
- Initial bivouac - South Ridge of Utug rock pinnacle.
- Departure time - 4:00.
- Equipment: main rope - 2 × 30 m; auxiliary cord - 2 m; rock pitons - 2–3; ice screws - 3–4; rock hammer - 1; carabiners - 8; crampons - 4 pairs; tent - 1.
- Bivouac sites - on glaciers and their moraines, on the Southeastern plateau of Panoramnaya Peak.