159. Ortokara via the North Ridge
(combined route, category 2B, fig. 14, 17). The path from the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people) to the upper plateau of the Shaurtu glacier under the northern slopes of Ortokara with a starting bivouac at the end of the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the Shaurtu glacier is described in route 154.
Cross the glacier plateau to the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Ortokara. From the glacier, pass through the bergschrund snow bridge and ascend the snowy slope to the ice-and-snow North Ridge of Ortokara. Along the left side of the North Ridge, approach the first 40-50-meter rock outcrop. Pass the outcrop via simple rocks on the left. Then, along the left side of the steep and sharp ice-and-snow North Ridge, ascend 250-300 m up to the second rock outcrop. Climb 60-70 m up the simple and moderately difficult rocks of the outcrop to a wall, which is bypassed on the left via ledges and moderately difficult rocks ("loose" stones, piton belay). Behind the wall, reach the North Ridge. Continue via:
- a 200-250-meter snowy North Ridge (cornices, belay)
to the summit of Ortokara. From the starting bivouac, it takes 7-8 hours.