Panoramnaya Peak via North wall — Cat. 4B

The path from the “Bezengi” base camp to the first stage of the Mizhirgi icefall can be seen in the description of the ascent route to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak from Kyundyum-Mizhirgi pass.

70 m ascent up a steep firn slope from the bergschrund. The rocky cape is bypassed on the left on the ice, then 35 m on simple rocks to the right – exit to the site of this cape.

From the site 70 m up the stepped (destroyed) rocks. 50 m traverse left under the steep wall, then 3 m up the plate. From here 50 m to the right, then ascent on the plates to the sites of the lower rocky belt. From the sites up the ice-snow slope to under the rocky island. Traverse under it left-up to a steep ice shelf and fully up-right, then up a 3-meter icy vertical groove. Further up 60–70 m on a steep bowl-shaped ice slope (belay!) and on 50 m snowy rocks of medium difficulty – exit to the site in the upper part of the island. There is a control tour on the sites. From the site 100–120 m up the ice-snow slope to the light-brown wall of the North buttress of the Utës spire. 20 m right under the wall. Then up a 4–5 m chimney and 120–130 m on snowy, destroyed tile-like rocks of medium difficulty of the buttress. The 4-meter rocky ascent of the buttress is passed on the right side of the inner corner (belay!). And on the snow-ice slope left of the rocky ridge ascent under the second ascent. 10 m to the right under the ascent and up a 10–12-meter cleft up-left (piton!).

60–70 m up-left from the ascent on a steep snow-ice slope and snowy ridge – exit to the saddle between the Utës spire and Panoramnaya Peak.

From the saddle left, on the snowy ridge (cornices!) and on simple rocks ascent to Panoramnaya Peak. 8–12 hours from the glacier to the summit.