46. Himik via the Left rib of the North tower of the North ridge (combined route by A. Naumov, cat. 4B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Yunom glacier with an initial bivouac at the "Sredne-Kichkidarskiye nochyovki" is described in route 73. From the nochyovki, cross the Yunom glacier to the right and ascend the gentle snow slope to reach the snow-covered talus terrace on the left side of the Left rib of the North tower of Himik peak. Traverse the talus ledges of the terrace to the left, beneath the Left rib of the North tower. From the ledge, ascend 80 m up the moderately difficult rock of the rib to a vertical wall. Below the wall, make a short traverse to the right and ascend the moderately difficult rock of a 15-20 m steep internal corner to reach the wall. From here, ascend 160-180 m up and to the left through moderately difficult rock ("live" stones), passing:

• internal corners,
• ledges,
• alternating with short walls of above moderate difficulty and difficult rock,
• beneath the left side of a huge inclined slab - a balcony. Ascend a difficult 15-20 m wall to reach the slab - balcony, and traverse it to its upper left corner. From the slab-balcony, ascend 80-100 m up and to the left through a chimney - crevice, then traverse along a ledge to reach the right chimney - crevice and ascend another 80-100 m. Bypass the rock plug in the upper part:

SPORTING AND TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT Khimik 5AK to the S wall with crest The "Khimik" peak (3935 m) is located on the western spur of the "Adyr-Su" peak. There are two routes to the summit. The first ascent of "Khimik" was made by a group led by Yuryev A. on August 15, 1951, during the traverse of Khimik—Treugolnik. The ice and snow slopes of "Khimik" towards the "Yunom" glacier end in sheer walls of the Northern tower. In 1971, a group led by Naumov A. laid a 4B category route along the left edge of this tower. In 1980, a group led by R. Efimov passed a route along the North-Eastern wall of the right edge of the Northern tower. In the upper part of the route, not noticing a simple exit to the right edge, the group:

• traversed along a ledge to the left under a large cornice;
• ascended to the Northern tower along the wall between the left and right edges. The second passage of the route was made in 1981 by the duo Gnaevsky—Bratsev. This group reached the edge at the level of the traverse of the first ascenders and ascended to the Northern tower along it. The further path of both groups coincided with the 4B category route. In this report, the sports group from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp describes the path taken along the variant of the second ascenders. We consider this path more logical and safer. During the ascent, the group observed rockfalls passing along the upper part of the path of the first ascenders.

Report

on the ascent to Pik Khimik, second passage of the route on the right part of the bastion of the S. wall of the S. ridge (Didora, 2009) Team Coach:

• Timoshenko T.A.
• Semiletkin S.A. Leader: Murin E.G. Participant: Shabelnikov S.V. St. Petersburg, 2010

Climbing Passport

1. Prielbrusye, Adyrsu gorge, section 2.4.1.

56. Khimik - Treugolnik

(the route is combined by A. Yuryev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Alp лагеря "Ullutau" (a group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Khimik with a bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Severny Adyrsu glacier is described in route 45. From the summit of Khimik:

• along the snow-covered simple rocks of the long Western ridge
• passing a simple gendarme head-on
• ascend to the Ozernaya summit. From Khimik, it takes 30-40 minutes. From Ozernaya, descend along the simple snow-covered, gently sloping, with a steep shoulder, heavily destroyed (insurance) rocks of the Western ridge to the saddle under the Big Gendarme.

243. Chattu via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, Fig. 18, 28).

From the "Bashil" tourist base, follow the left bank of the Bashil River upstream through the gorge until you reach the stream from the Chat glacier. Here, turn left and ascend along the stream's edge to the tongue of the Chat glacier. Approach the icefall via the glacier, preferably passing it on its right side. Above it, cross the snow bridge over the bergschrund and ascend a steep 100-meter ice-and-snow slope to the Chat pass. From the "Bashil" tourist base, it takes 5–6 hours. The path from the "Chegem" tourist base to the Chat pass is described in route 242. On the pass (when ascending via the Chat glacier), turn left and follow the ice-and-snow saddle of the pass to reach the Southwest Ridge. Traverse the heavily damaged, long, and occasionally snow-covered easy Southwest Ridge of Chattu, bypassing numerous rock pinnacles on the right (loose rocks, protection required), to reach the summit of Chattu. From the pass, it takes 4–5 hours.

Chegem via ridge, combined, Tal, 1912, 2B

The route was completed during the training camp of the KAiS MEI in 2020. From the ruins of the "Bashil" tourist base, cross the bridge to the left (orographically) bank of the Bashil River. Move along the trail for 1.5–2 hours upstream along the river until you reach the turn into the gorge of the Maly Chegem River. Fig. 1. The landmark is a standalone birch tree. Higher up and to the left along the slope is a waterfall. Climb the steep grassy slope and местами large-block talus for 2 hours until you reach a flattening on a large field with a stream. There is no trail, but there are tourist markers. Overnight stays are possible on the grassy field. Then, reach the left-bank moraine of the Chegem glacier and move along its ridge for another 1.5–2 hours. Fig. 2. The moraine ridge leads to large-block talus. Approximately at the level of the glacier tongue are the overnight stays. This is the initial bivouac. From the overnight stays, move up the large-block talus for 30 minutes until you reach the open glacier. On the gentle part, reach the glacier step. It can be overcome from the right side. The upper plateau of the Chegem glacier is the beginning of the route. From the bivouac, it takes 1–2 hours. The original 1912 route went along the ice-snow slope from the glacier to the East Ridge of Chegem. Fig. 3 and 4. Nowadays, the snow has melted, and this part is a giant ledge that crosses the slope of Chegem diagonally from left to right.

Chegem via the western ridge, combined, 3A

Route description:

We ascend to the Donkin pass along the snowy slope, followed by an ascent to the snowy pad of the northern ridge of the Kickhadar peak. The ascent leading to the Chegem peak begins from the pad. The ridge is characterized by a large number of gendarmes. The general direction is from west to east. The first four gendarmes are easily bypassed on the right. Move simultaneously with protection through the ledges, then exit to a platform, descend 10–15 m along the internal corner to the saddle between the gendarmes. There are two possible path options further: I. Bypass the main rock mass along the ledges 1.5–2 ropes below the ridge. II. Move along the ridge, overcoming the gendarmes head-on. Moving along the ridge, we come to the gendarmes with a saddle, deviating slightly to the left along the edge of the snow. The first one goes up to the crack, standing on the partner's shoulders. Secures the rope on which the rest climb. Further movement along the ridge with simultaneous protection to a smooth 3 m wall, with a narrow crack into which you can hammer pitons, but you can bypass the wall along the gap on the left. The movement continues:

• Again, simultaneous movement along the ridge,

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: (in accordance with KTMVG) Caucasus, from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass. 3. Peak, its height and route: Chegem, 4461 m, via the Northwest wall of the Northeast ridge. 4. Difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1250 m, average slope of the wall directly 75-80 degrees, average slope of the ascent route 50-55 degrees. Length of sections: 1st category difficulty — 0 m, 2nd category difficulty — 400 m, 3rd category difficulty — 570 m, 4th category difficulty — 330 m, 5th category difficulty — 150 m, 6th category difficulty — 80 m. 6. Pitons hammered in: For belaying: - Rock: 48

Moscow Alpinism Championship 2009. Technical Climbing Class

Central Caucasus

Report

On the ascent to Chegem peak (4461 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge (first ascent) Team Leader: Sergey Nilov — Master of Sports Coach: Sergey Kutkin, Candidate for Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Chegem gorge
2. Peak: Chegem, height 4461 m.
3. Route: Via the North-Eastern wall of the North-Eastern ridge

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.