56. Khimik - Treugolnik

(the route is combined by A. Yuryev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Alp лагеря "Ullutau" (a group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Khimik with a bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Severny Adyrsu glacier is described in route 45.

From the summit of Khimik:

  • along the snow-covered simple rocks of the long Western ridge
  • passing a simple gendarme head-on
  • ascend to the Ozernaya summit.

From Khimik, it takes 30-40 minutes.

From Ozernaya, descend along the simple snow-covered, gently sloping, with a steep shoulder, heavily destroyed (insurance) rocks of the Western ridge to the saddle under the Big Gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left with a descent along steep rocks (insurance), crossing 4 counter-slopes, and behind them, exit to the saddle connecting the Ozernaya and Moscow Komsomolets summits. Along the easy snow-covered rocks of the saddle, approach the ascent of the Eastern ridge of the Moscow Komsomolets summit.

From the saddle, along the heavily destroyed, steep rocks of medium difficulty of the Eastern ridge (insurance), ascend to the ascent. Further, along the simple snow-covered, then steep destroyed rocks of the ridge, ascend to the shoulder and from it to the summit of Moscow Komsomolets. From Ozernaya, it takes 3-4 hours.

From Moscow Komsomolets, descend along simple rocks, then rappel 12-15 m. Further, along steep slabs of medium difficulty, descend to the saddle and along it, approach under the Trapezium gendarme.

Pass Trapezium head-on along rocks of medium difficulty (insurance with a rope attached to a rock or ice axe) with a descent to the saddle under the Skala gendarme. Bypass this gendarme on the left (insurance) and descend to the saddle.

On the right side of the ice-snow slope of the wide long saddle with numerous low gendarmes, approach the ascent of the Treugolnik summit.

Along the simple destroyed rocks of the ascent of the Eastern ridge, ascend to the summit ridge and along it to the summit of Treugolnik. From Moscow Komsomolets, it takes 4-5 hours.

Sources

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