Chegem via the western ridge, combined, 3A

Route description:

We ascend to the Donkin pass along the snowy slope, followed by an ascent to the snowy pad of the northern ridge of the Kickhadar peak. The ascent leading to the Chegem peak begins from the pad. The ridge is characterized by a large number of gendarmes. The general direction is from west to east.

The first four gendarmes are easily bypassed on the right. Move simultaneously with protection through the ledges, then exit to a platform, descend 10–15 m along the internal corner to the saddle between the gendarmes.

There are two possible path options further:

I. Bypass the main rock mass along the ledges 1.5–2 ropes below the ridge.

II. Move along the ridge, overcoming the gendarmes head-on.

Moving along the ridge, we come to the gendarmes with a saddle, deviating slightly to the left along the edge of the snow. The first one goes up to the crack, standing on the partner's shoulders. Secures the rope on which the rest climb. Further movement along the ridge with simultaneous protection to a smooth 3 m wall, with a narrow crack into which you can hammer pitons, but you can bypass the wall along the gap on the left.

The movement continues:

• Again, simultaneous movement along the ridge,
• Descent to a platform with a lake.

From the platform with the lake to the summit is 1 hour's journey.

Descent from the summit along the couloir going straight from the summit to the Chegem plateau. There is a descent along the couloir from the platform with the lake. From the plateau, we exit to the Freshfield pass and through the rock "gates" down to the Yunom-Su glacier.