5. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via SW ridge.

From the "Jangi-kosh" hut through the "crescent-shaped" moraine to the Bezengi glacier, along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the glacier (attention - closed crevices, rockfall hazard from the S slopes of Peak Warsaw), bypassing the bases of three S spurs of the main ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz-bashi, along the cirque under the slopes of the SW ridge. From the hut 2.5–3 hours. Through the bergschrund, along the left side of the snow slope, bounded on the right by a rocky buttress of the ridge (attention - rockfall hazard on the right side), onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge with rock outcrops, with simultaneous belay on protrusions and bends of the ridge to the summit.

• From the glacier - 1.5 hours.
• Descent along the ascent route to the glacier 1 hour, and then to the hut about 1 hour.

6. Bashkha-Auz-bashi via S ridge.

The approach to the SW cirque of Bashkha-Auz is similar to the previous description. Traverse the cirque under the slopes of the S ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass - the last col in the S ridge. From the hut 3–4 hours. Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of broken rocks, with simultaneous belay on protrusions, to a steep rocky ascent. Here, traverse left 20 m and then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along broken rocks (attention! - rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE shoulder of the ridge. Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. From the pass about 1 hour. Descent from the summit along the SW ridge according to the previous description.

Башхауз, from the ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“crescent-shaped”) moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) exit to the upper circus and through it (attention — hidden crevasses) — under the slopes with the Bash-a-uz-b ridge. To the right of the rocky outcrops from the glacier along the slopes with the ridge to the left to the talus counterforce coming from the pass. Go around the base of the counterforce from the left, ascend from it along the S slope. Along the ridge of the counterforce, then 30–40 m along the ice drop wall (steepness 50–60°) and along the flattening snowy slope under the Sella pass, 4–5 hours from the hut. From the pass along the S ridge simultaneously to the summit of the 1st “gendarme” (control tour), then down 30–40 m along the rocky shelves to the snowy slope and bypassing the 2nd “gendarme” to the right — to the ridge. The 3rd “gendarme” — head-on or to the right, and along the snowy ridge (attention — possible cornices to the left) through small rocky “gendarme” head-on to the summit. 3–4 hours from the pass. Descent from the summit:

• along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle,
• then to the left along the right side of the snowy slope (rockfall hazard from the left),
• to the Bezengi glacier and along it (attention
• Hidden crevasses, under the slopes of the Warsaw peak rockfall hazard — bypassing

PASSPORT

Ascent to the summit of peak Borovikov (4880 m) via NE wall, category 5B difficulty Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge. Elevation gain 1800 m Route length 3040 m Average slope 42° Route character combined Section lengths:

• 5 — 285 m
• 6 — 50 m Team's moving hours – 32; days – 3

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Peak name: Gestemony; route name: via the North wall (M. Khergiani, 1959)
3. Complexity category: 5Б
4. Route character: combined
5. Route height difference: 1960 m (by altimeter) Route length: 2990 m. Section length: V category: 938 m, VI category: 140 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route: 65 °

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: combined
2. Ascent area: Dagestan mountains
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Adдала-Шухгель Mt., 4151 m, via N ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 850 m
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections:
     • I difficulty category — 590 m

1. Ascent class
2. Climbing area
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Estimated difficulty category
5. Route characteristics
6. Number of pitons driven
7. Number of travel hours
8. Number of overnight stays
9. Names of team leader and participants, their sports qualification
10. Team coach

I. Category of first ascents. 2. Region 2.10, Dagestan Mountains, Bogossky Ridge. 3. Addalashukhgelmeer, 415 m, via the right gully of the North-East face, combined route. 4. Proposed category 3B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 700 m, route length: category 1 - 450 m, category 2 - 450 m, category 3 - 120 m, category 4 - 195 m, category 5 - 15 m, total route length 1220 m, average slope of the gully 45°. 6. Pitons used: rock - 6 pcs, ice screws - 17 pcs. 7. Climbing time - 7 hours. 8. No overnight stays. Overnight stay at the base camp, at TDS "Sulak-Vysokogornaya" (2953 m). 9. Leader: Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Team members: Ivanov Alexander Petrovich, 2nd sports category; Maximov Vladimir Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category; Fomin German Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category.

PASSPORT

1. The route is combined
2. East Caucasus 2.9, Kila River valley
3. Mt. Addala-Shukhgelmeer (4151) via the north-eastern wall.
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: a. Elevation gain: 1100 m. b. Average steepness of main sections: 68° (3250–4080 m) c. Length: 1550 m (II cat. — 350 m; III cat. — 340 m; IV cat. — 460 m; V cat. — 400 m.)
6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: №2.9 (East Caucasus, Bogossky Ridge)
3. Peak, its height and route: Addala-Shukhgelmeэр East, 3970 m, via the northern counterfort
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 770 m, average steepness — 50°, section duration: R1–500 m, R2–250 m, R3–250 m, R4–220 m, R5–120 m
6. Number of driven pitons:
   • rock: 3
   • ice: 1
   • bolt: –

Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov")

Central Council of the DSO "Avangard"

Kiev — 1967

Data on team members