Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — East Caucasus, Shanava ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — p. Kichcechcort, 4133 m. via South ridge (through j. "Bolshoy")
4. Route characteristics: a) rope length height — 900 m. b) route length — 1800 m. c) average route steepness — 45°
5. Pitons hammered for belay (I.T.O.):

2021 2020 2019 2018 2017 2016 2015 2014 2013

North-Western and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship 2024 (high-altitude technical class)

Report on the ascent of Tsей-Лоам via the SW wall (Gorin route) by the St. Petersburg team from 13.03.2024 to 13.03.2024

on the ascent of Tsей-Лоам via the SW wall (Gorin route) by the team of St. Petersburg from 13.03.2024 to 13.03.2024 St. Petersburg

I. Ascent Passport

1. The type of ascent is combined.
2. The region of ascent is Eastern Caucasus, Shavano ridge, Shandon river gorge, ChIASSR.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak 60 years of ChIASSR (4071 m) via the right couloir of the NE wall, first ascent.
4. Assumed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1250 m. b) average steepness — 40°. c) extent of sections: * 1st diff. cat. — 760 m. * 2nd diff. cat. — 320 m.

1. Climbing category - rock
2. Climbing area - Eastern Caucasus, Khde (Kistinki) gorge
3. Peak - Shino, height 3948 m, route - Shino via the center of the North face
4. Proposed category of complexity - 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall - 900 m; average steepness 55°; length in meters of sections:
   • 2A - 400 (pre-summit ridge)
   • 2B - 140
   • 3A - 165
   • 3B - 260
   • 4A - 195

Brief Overview of Mt. Kuro Area

Mt. Kuro is located in the ridge separating the Hde gorge from the Darial gorge. The western slopes of the peak descend to the village of Kazbegi. From this side, two routes of category 2B difficulty lead to the summit. The eastern ridge, together with Mt. Shino, forms a vast cirque filled with moraine formations. The cirque is separated from the Darial gorge by the southern ridge of Mt. Kuro, which connects to the northwestern ridge of Mt. Shino and has a depression down to 3500 m at the junction. A category 1B route follows this ridge, accessing it through the cirque between Kuro and Shino at the depression. Several routes of 2nd and 3rd category difficulty have been climbed by various groups on the southern slopes of the eastern ridge in search of a route along the southern ridge. At a pronounced elevation (often mistaken for the summit of Kuro), a distinct ridge with steep slopes, rocky and icy, branches off the eastern ridge to the east-northeast. Together with the slopes of the main summit, these form the northern facade of the massif. Mt. Kuro also has a sloping talus cirque on its northern side, opening onto a large terrace in the Hde gorge. The cirque is bounded to the north by the slopes of an unnamed peak about 3900 m high, and to the west by the ridge separating the Hde gorge from the Darial gorge. To the south, the cirque adjoins the eastern ridge of Mt. Kuro. No ascent to Mt. Kuro has been made from this northern cirque to date.

Group Composition

The ascent was made on May 9, 1971, by a group of climbers from Tbilisi State University, consisting of:

1. Sarjveladze N.I. — 2nd category
2. Tarkhnishvili D.I. — 2nd category

163. Lekzyr Malaya via North-West ridge (combined route, Cat. III, Fig. 24, 26). From the initial bivouac on the “Morena Lekzyr” sites (point 159) cross the Eastern branch of Lekzyr Glacier (closed crevasses) and ascend on its right side. Pass the lower part of the North-West ridge with gendarmes, turn right, cross the bergschrund, and ascend a steep snow-ice slope (streams) to the North-West ridge of Lekzyr Malaya summit. On the ridge, turn left and follow the icy-snowy North-West ridge (cornices) to approach the snow-covered rocky ascent. Ascend steep snow-covered rocks of the ascent (“live” stones, pitons) — 60–70 m up. Then 100–120 m along the edge of ice and rocks (cornices, belay), then:

165. Lekzyr Severnaya via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (combined route, category 2B, fig. 24, 26). At Tot pass (item 160. turn right and reach the snowy eastern slope of Lekzyr Severnaya peak. From here, 300–400 m up-left along a gentle snowy slope (avalanches, rocks), in the upper part along the rocks or to the right of them — to reach the shoulder of the snowy counterfort. Up along the counterfort, then cross left a wide snowy couloir (avalanches, rocks) of the saddle between Severnaya and Glavnaya peaks and reach a vaguely expressed ridge. From here, 80–100 m up along steep easy destroyed and snowy rocks of

168. Lekzyr Yuzhnaya via South-Eastern Ridge (combined route, E, Beletsky, 3B cat. diff., fig. 24, 26).

From Tot Pass (route 160) descend a snow slope with a bergschrund in its lower part to Tot Glacier and along its right side (closed crevasses) approach the right side of the south-eastern ridge of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya peak. From the glacier, having traversed the bergschrund, ascend 100–120 m up a snowy-ice slope of the "tie" to a col (cornice) of the South-Eastern ridge above the 1st pillar. Here, turn right, approach the 2nd pillar, bypass it with a descent along a ledge on the left (belay) and get behind it onto the South-Eastern ridge. Then:

• 15–20 m along a snowy slope,
• 80–90 m along rocky South-Eastern ridge to below a wall. Bypass the wall on the right along a ledge. Then, traverse 50–60 m along medium-difficulty rocks on the right side of the South-Eastern ridge (gully) and via an ice-snow couloir ascend to the South-Eastern ridge. Then:
• along medium-difficulty rocks,
• along a snowy col (cornice),
• along simple, easy rocks of the South-Eastern ridge — ascend to the summit of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya.

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.