- Lekzyr Malaya via North-West ridge (combined route, Cat. III, Fig. 24, 26).
From the initial bivouac on the “Morena Lekzyr” sites (point 159) cross the Eastern branch of Lekzyr Glacier (closed crevasses) and ascend on its right side.
Pass the lower part of the North-West ridge with gendarmes, turn right, cross the bergschrund, and ascend a steep snow-ice slope (streams) to the North-West ridge of Lekzyr Malaya summit.
On the ridge, turn left and follow the icy-snowy North-West ridge (cornices) to approach the snow-covered rocky ascent.
Ascend steep snow-covered rocks of the ascent (“live” stones, pitons) — 60–70 m up.
Then 100–120 m along the edge of ice and rocks (cornices, belay), then:
- 200-meter steep snow-ice ascent (belay) to a snowy shoulder,
- from which follow a narrow icy-snowy North-West ridge (cornices, belay) to approach the first wall of the summit tower.
Ascend the moderately difficult wall — 5 m up (pitons).
Then:
- follow 90–100-meter steep snow-covered North-West ridge (cornices, belay),
- ascend a 5–7-meter moderately difficult wall (pitons) to reach a snowy ridge,
- along which reach the summit of Lekzyr Malaya.
From “Morena Lekzyr” sites — 6–7 hours.