Report

on the first ascent of Shogentsukova peak via the South-Eastern wall, approximately 4A category of difficulty. Ullu-tau 2007

Route Passport

1. Mountain system — Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge. Name of the peak: Shogentsukova peak Peak number according to the 2001 classification table: 2.4.161
2. Route name: via the South-Eastern wall
3. Category of difficulty: 4A Passage: 1st passage

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical;
2. Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak, Adyrsu-Dzhailyk spur;
3. Yunom peak, 4365 m, via the West Face;
4. Category 4A, first ascent;
5. Height difference: 500 m; Distance: 960 m; Distance of category 4-5 sections: 135 m; Average steepness of the main sections: 58°;
6. Pitons driven:

Ynom-Kichkidar, combined, 3A

Route Description

From the Ullu-Tau alpine camp, the path goes through the Djailyk alpine camp, then crosses the Kullum-Kom river via a bridge and follows a trail along the right bank up to the terminal moraine of the Yuzhny Ynom-Su glacier. The ascent to the moraine takes 1.5 hours. Follow the trail on the moraine to ascend to the glacier and reach its right (orographically) side, along which you should proceed to the so-called srednekichkidar bivouac. It takes 2 hours from the camp to the bivouac. From the bivouac, move along the right side of the Yuzhny Ynom-Su glacier to a counterfort descending from the Freshfield Pass. The pass resembles "Gates" - two rows of rocky outcrops. It takes 3 hours from the bivouac to the pass. Then, descend from the pass about 20 meters down the snowfield to the east, and then traverse left to a couloir descending from the southeast ridge of the Ynom-Kara-Tau peak. Climb out of the couloir onto the ridge on its left side. The path to the summit continues along rocky steps resembling adjacent slabs. These steps lead to a gully. Cross the gully to the right and ascend the rocks on its right side (in the direction of travel) to a saddle. The path goes along simple rocks (slabs) to the summit. The summit is a sharp ridge, about 2 meters high, with a crevice in its middle part. The ascent from the Freshfield Pass takes 2 hours. From the summit, the path follows the ridge to the end of the massif, where a descent is made down a wall (40 m rope) to a snowy saddle. Then, a large gendarme is bypassed on the left along a snowy-icy slope, and a straightforward ridge is reached. The following gendarmes ("hares") are also bypassed on the left, leading to the ridge of the "Kichkidar" peak. The summit is covered with smooth rocky slabs. Return to the "hares" gendarmes and descend to the bivouac along the Zapadny Ynom-Su glacier, keeping to the left side.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, NW spurs of Adyr ridge, north of South Sabalyk glacier, from Adyrsu gorge side.
3. Peak 3800 m, from Southeast, first ascent.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B.
5. Elevation gain of the route 400 m.
6. Pitons used 1/0.
7. Number of climbing hours — 7 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Bivouac on South Sabalyk glacier moraine.
9. Leader Kiselev Nikolai Petrovich, Candidate Master of Sports.

Kenchat

202. Kenchat via the North Ridge (Category 1B route, A. Zyuzin, S. Katsnelson, A. Kaverin, F. Kompaneyets, L. Khodyush, August 7, 1938). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp through the Tyutyusu gorge to the rocky plateau in the upper reaches of the Tyutyusu gorge is described in route 184. From the plateau, turn left and first traverse the glacier, then the gentle moraines and scree to reach the left branch of the unnamed glacier flowing from under the Killar Pass. This is the starting bivouac. It takes 6–8 hours from the last grove. From the bivouac, enter the left branch of the glacier and ascend along its right edge to the upper snowy plateau. Traverse the plateau (many hidden crevices!) towards the wide

Report

On the first ascent

of Mt. Ozernaya, 4081 m, preliminarily classified as 4A category of difficulty, ice and snow route, completed on August 17, 2021. Region: Central Caucasus Area: 2.4.1. From the peak Gumachi to the Kitlod pass (Adyr-Su, Lekzyr, Chegem valleys) Content: I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION Description of the ascent area.

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit of Kullumkol

VIA THE ROUTE "NORTH-WESTERN SLOPE" CAT. 3B BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF THE ALPCLUB "POLITECHNIK" ON AUGUST 1, 2022 St. Petersburg 2022

I. Ascent Passport

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT TREUGOLNIK 3830 M VIA THE CENTER OF THE SLOPE ROUTE OF 3A CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY APPROXIMATELY DOUBLE TEAM CONSISTING OF Y. KOSHElenko, G. CHETVERKIN "ZVEZDOCHKA" July 24, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

Report

On the ascent to the peak Treugolnik (3830 m) via the Central-North slope, category III complexity, by the team of Alpcamp "Polytechnic" on July 28, 2022.

I Ascent Passport

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.