Report

On the first ascent

of Mt. Ozernaya, 4081 m,

preliminarily classified as 4A category of difficulty, ice and snow route,

completed on August 17, 2021.

Region: Central Caucasus

Area: 2.4.1. From the peak Gumachi to the Kitlod pass (Adyr-Su, Lekzyr, Chegem valleys)

Content:

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION Description of the ascent area. II. Description of the ascent.

1. Route description.
2. Team actions description.
3. Photographic Pathways, copy of the route sheet, Additional materials, Certification of participants' qualification, Report endorsement by the senior coach of the UTS FA SPB A. A. Kuznetsov, Opinion on the report by the head of the training department of the AUSB "Ullu-Tau" V. T. Orekhova.

I. Ascent Documentation

Description of the Ascent Area

The peak Ozernaya is located in a spur of the Main Caucasus Range, branching off to the west from the peak Adyr-Su and dividing the valleys of the Adyr-Su and Yonom-Su glaciers, between the peaks Khimik and Moskovsky Komsomolets. To the NNW, towards the peak Zimniy, a spur extends from it, dividing the Azot glacier and an unnamed glacier, flowing respectively to the NW and N.

The southern slopes of the peak are predominantly rocky, while the northern slopes are snow and ice-covered.

Two routes and traverses have been established on the peak so far, namely: Ozernaya — Khimik (3A category of difficulty) and Ozernaya — Treugolnik (3B). However, there was another route — Ozernaya via the right slope of the North tower of the North ridge (A. Yuryev et al., July 25, 1954), which followed the orographically left branch of the Azot glacier. But this part of the glacier has since melted, leaving steep rocky and scree slopes.

The northern slopes of the peaks Adyr-Su, Khimik, and Ozernaya are currently of interest from an alpinist's perspective due to changes in the snow and ice conditions, reduced glacier size, and smoothed ice falls.

New ice routes can also be laid on:

• peak Adyr-Su (approximately 4B-5A)
• peak Khimik (3A-3B)

Ice and snow routes of medium categories of difficulty have become particularly relevant for the training of alpinists. Based on many years of experience as an instructor, it has been observed that in recent years, athletes with 3rd and 2nd ranks have shown a significant decline in their ability to navigate snow and ice. This is partly due to:

• global warming — many ice routes have become objectively hazardous;
• the rise in rock climbing popularity — young alpinists prefer rocks to ice.

A new ice route in the popular area of the Ullu-Tau alpine camp will help fill this gap.

After consultations with the management of the Ullu-Tau alpine camp: Porokhney Yu. I., Zaytsev K. K., and Orekhova V. T., and at their request, this ice and snow route was chosen for the first ascent, with a preliminary assessment of 4A category of difficulty. The team hopes that it will contribute to both the development of alpinism in the area and the improvement of ice climbing techniques among alpinists.

The group dedicated their first ascent to the 85th anniversary of the Ullu-Tau alpine camp and named the route "Jubilee".

II. Description of the Ascent

1. Ascent Object Description

1.1. General photo of the peak. August 8, 2021, from the slopes of Shogentsukova peak

1.2. Profile of the upper part of the route.

1.3–1.5. Satellite image of the ascent area and constructed altitude profile.

1. Route Description

2.1. Technical photograph of the route.

2.2. Numbers of sections on the technical photograph correspond to the numbers of sections on the route diagram in UIAA symbols

2.3. Route diagram in UIAA symbols

2. Team Actions Description

3.1. Description of the route passage.

The path from the Ullu-Tau alpine camp to the Nizhnekichdarskiye overnight stay is not complicated and is described in many sources; the approach takes 2 hours and 30 minutes. The trail is available on OSM. From the overnight stay, a steel cable is stretched for safety during the wading (depth up to 50 cm) across the Yunom river. Then, from the crossing, go through the lateral moraine to the lake under the glacier, along which the route passes. There is a convenient place for an overnight stay at the western end of the lake. (N 43.22511° E 42.84503°)

From the overnight stay, go around the lake to the right and ascend along the stream to the snowfield under the glacier. R0. 10–20°, 150 m. Along gentle snowy, sometimes rocky slopes — to the right part of the glacier tongue.

R1. 35–60°, 300 m. The right part rises above the main glacier in the form of an ice ridge, along which the ascent goes. The steepness of the ridge changes; it is generally steeper in the upper part than in the lower. The middle and left parts may be hit by stones from the western slopes of the North ridge. Photo 1–3. Alternate belay. At the top of the rocky island, a control cairn is suspended on a hook (photo 5). From the overnight stay — 5.5 hours.

R2. 20–75°, 180 m. From the control cairn, go left and upwards through the ice fall with a series of small ice walls to reach the flattening of the glacier.

R3. 20–30°, 450 m. Along a gentle snow and ice slope, bypassing the rocky island to the right, ascend to the snowy saddle of the North ridge. Movement is simultaneous. With a large amount of snow and avalanche danger from the North slopes of the peak, the rocky island can be bypassed to the left along a steep ice slope. This slope, although steeper, is safer and should be chosen if there is any doubt about the safety of the right option (photo 4).

R4. 35–60°, 350 m. From the saddle, along a steep ice slope, and then along the snow and ice ridge, reach the peak. Alternate belay. In the upper part of the ridge, 3 ropes (150 m) from the peak, descend to the left onto the ice slope and stay closer to the rock outcrops. From the control cairn — 6 hours (photo 6–8).

The group worked out 3 possible descent options and used the third.

1. Along the Northwest ridge towards the peak Zimniy with a descent to the Azot glacier. Along the ascent route during the traverse Ozernaya — Khimik.
2. To the saddle between the peaks Ozernaya and Khimik and then 2-3 rappels onto the glacier descending from Khimik to the north, and then simultaneously along the glacier, bypassing crevices and ice falls to the right.
3. Along the ascent route, 5 rappels down the ice to the snowy saddle (R3) and then on foot, bypassing steep ice slopes and ice falls to the left, along the rocky fence towards the peak Zimniy to the last couloir, and down it to the overnight stay. The entrance to this couloir is not clearly visible; do not turn right until the rocky wall of the Zimniy peak spur blocks the path. From the peak — 5-6 hours.

3.2. 3.3. Route safety assessment.

It is necessary to start the route as early as possible, as by 9:00 the sun illuminates the damaged rocky slopes on the left, and stones may fall from them.

If there is a danger of avalanches from the North slopes of the peak, on section R3:

• choose the left ascent option along the steep ice slope.

After section R3, the route is safe.

3. Photographic Materials

1. First rope of section R1
2. Third rope of section R1
3. Profile of the upper part of section R1
4. End of section R2. Flattening of the glacier after the ice fall
5. Location of the control cairn at the start of section R2
6. Section R4
7. Profile of section R4
8. Work on R4

5. Copy of the Route Sheet

ROUTE SHEET No. 79

For the ascent to peak Ozernaya via the first ascent route on the N wall category of difficulty. Approximately 4A led by Korabelnikov K. V. consisting of 3 people. completed on 17.08.2021. Ascent organized by UTS FA SPB

Group departure is permitted (certification number, signature of the releasing coach) Release date: "15" August 2021 at "16" hours. (Agreed: (detachment commander, senior coach)) Group registered with the rescue team (exit plan agreed with KSP) UTS FA SPB

Return deadline: set for August 19, 2021 at "16" hours 00 min. O. B. Panasyuk V. M. (Position and signature) Group returned from the route on August 18, 2021 at 19:00, having completed the ascent in full.

List of group participants:

Group is allowed to ascend in the amount of 3 people on August 15, 2021. (Medical officer of the alpine event)

Instructions and comments from the releasing coach, rescue service:

(Position and signature) Acknowledged. Team leader: Korabelnikov K. V. (signature)

We, the team leader and participants, are aware of the "Rules for Completing Ascensions" and the safety measures during the alpine ascent and take full responsibility for their observance.

Leader: (signature) Participants: 1. (signature), 2. (signature), 3. (signature)

Communication schedule with the base camp, call sign, plan of interaction with other groups: 8:00, 11:00, 14:00, 17:00, 19:30

Ascent, descent, return options, other additional data:

1. Descent via the ascent route.
2. Descent along the ridge of peak Moskovsky Komsomolets and then via the 1B category route.

Group Support

Standard, additional, special equipment:

Communication means, signaling (radio station, type, radio station power supply, configuration):

• Radio station
• Type: Baofeng
• Radio station power supply: 145.500 MHz
• Configuration

Food supply for 3 days

Tactical plan of ascent, time breakdown by sections, route diagram in symbols

Additional Materials

Certification of Participants' Qualification

The participants of the first ascent on peak Ozernaya had, by the start of the ascent, completed the required standards for the 2nd sports rank and were eligible for release on routes of 4A category of difficulty as participants in an educational group with an instructor. The group was released on the route accordingly. I am attaching:

• excerpts from the alpinist's logbooks of the participants
• copies of these excerpts
• some information about the leader.

Completed ascents of the participants of the first ascent on peak Ozernaya (approximately 4A category of difficulty) after achieving the 3rd rank:

Instructor Korabelnikov K. V., No. 597 Copies of pages from the alpinist's logbooks of the participants:

Yakuba N. V. All ascents are recorded in chronological order All ascents are recorded in chronological order All ascents are recorded in chronological order Tsvetkov I. A. All ascents are recorded in chronological order All ascents are recorded in chronological order All ascents are recorded in chronological order

Korabelnikov K. V., Master of Sports of Russia (2002). Instructor 3rd category (1997).

Participation in Russian championships:

• 1998 — Ushba, via the left part of the Northwest wall, 5B in a double team, winter class, 5th place.
• 1998 — 5013 (Gornyak), via the center of the North wall, variant, 6B in a double team, technical class, 2nd place.
• 2002 — Sablya, via the left part of the North-Northeast wall from the Goffman glacier, 5B winter, class of first ascents, 2nd place.
• 2003 — Akaya (Bezengi valley), via the center of the Southwest wall, first ascent, 6A, winter class, 7th place.
• 2004 — Kongur, via the Northwest slope and North ridge, 6A, first ascent, high-altitude and technical class, 3rd place.

Participation and leadership in first ascents:

• 1999 — Khan-Tengri, via the center of the bastion of the Southwest wall, Southwest-Southwest ridge, in a double team, 6A? (report not submitted).
• 2000 — Mramornaya Stena, via the 3rd wall, in a double team, 6A? (report not submitted).
• 2002 — Sablya, via the left part of the North-Northeast wall from the Goffman glacier, 5B winter, class of first ascents, 2nd place.
• 2003 — Akaya (Bezengi valley), via the central Southwest wall, 6A.
• 2004 — Kongur, via the Northwest slope and North ridge, 6A.

From 2010 to 2021, worked 18 shifts as an instructor as part of various camps, mainly under the programs:

• SP-1,
• SP-2.

Endorsement

To the report on the results of the ascent to peak Ozernaya 4083 m.

First ascent on August 17, 2021. The group led by instructor Kirill Korabelnikov successfully completed the planned route according to the tactical plan. The route was chosen and agreed upon based on visual reconnaissance and consultations with the management of the Ullu-Tau alpine camp. The participants have excellent physical and technical preparation, having completed a full cycle of training and educational ascents, and have climbing experience on routes of 3rd to 4th categories of difficulty. Instructor K. V. Korabelnikov is a Master of Sports with extensive experience in ascents and leadership, including first ascents. A debriefing was conducted, and clarifications were obtained on the technical complexity of key sections and the route as a whole. The participants' movement along the route was visually monitored by the senior coach of the camp; a radio communication schedule was maintained.

The group completed the route at a high pace, ensuring necessary safety measures. Excellent acclimatization and peak physical form contributed to the successful ascent. The descent from the route was carried out in daylight, but at the limit of daylight hours.

Considering all objective arguments, it can be concluded that the route is an ice and snow route corresponding to the preliminarily stated 4A category. It is recommended for further educational and sports ascents. The appearance of this route is highly relevant for the development of alpinism in the area and the further popularization of the Ullu-Tau alpine camp.

Senior coach of the UTS FA SPB A. A. Kuznetsov, certification No. 1935

Opinion

On the report on the results of the ascent to peak Ozernaya 4083 m.

"Jubilee"

First ascent on August 17, 2021.

1. I thank all participants who completed the first ascent and compiled a detailed, competent description of the route. The route is dedicated to the anniversary of the AUSB "Ullu-Tau" — in August 2021, it was 85 years since its founding.
2. This topic, first ascents, is relevant for the further development of alpinism in the area of the Ullu-Tau alpine camp. The route will allow future climbers to improve their ice climbing techniques.
3. Undoubtedly, this route corresponds to the stated category of difficulty 4A. This category of difficulty is in demand among climbers, but such routes are unfortunately in short supply. The route is visually appealing and has a convenient approach.

Head of the training department of the AUSB "Ullu-Tau", instructor 1st sports rank V. T. Orekhova, certification No. 550.