Traverse of the Northern and Central Towers

V. Trekhglavaya with ascent along the NE ridge of the Northern Tower via route 2B category of difficulty

1. Geographical information

The V. Trekhglavaya massif is located in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, in a long lateral spur that serves as a watershed between the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching latitudinally for hundreds of km. The highest point is 3266 m above sea level, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym river. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to climbers. The gorges are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1880 m, on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The V. Trekhglavaya massif consists of three towers - South, Central, and North. The highest is the Central Tower, with a height of 2511 m above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. From the resort to the Base camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers - 4 hours walk (uphill to the gorge).

2. Route description

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "FLIBUSTIER" VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, 2860

Group Composition

KUZNETSOV YU.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 4B, 5A, 5A — team leader MUKHORTOV M.V. — 2nd sports category, 9 ascents of 4th category difficulty, 5A — participant KUPRINA N.S. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 5A MIKHAILOV A.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A Irkutsk, 1971 Brief Geographical Characteristics The summit "Flibustier" is located in the southern lateral spur of the Tunka ridge. Its eastern slope drops into the valley of the Moygota river, and the western slope — into the valley of the Biron river. The described route is laid from the Moygota river gorge. The entrance to the gorge is located 25–30 km from the Arshan resort. A dirt road allows driving to the gorge by truck.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism" Gory Baikal

Report on the First Ascent

To the peak Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge. Approximately 2B category of difficulty.

Irkutsk, 2016. Passport of the Ascent

1. (Eastern) Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Barun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table (6.1.2).
2. Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge.

Ascent passport for Starkova peak, 3187 m, via South-Eastern couloir, cat. 2A diff.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy mountain range, Ganga Khairyim valley, section 6.1.2.
2. Starkova peak 3187 m, via South-Eastern couloir.
3. Proposed cat. 2A diff., first ascent description.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 400 m, length — 700 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and chock stones — 9 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours — 11 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. First ascender and first traverser of the route — Starkov, 1963.

Report

On the first ascent

To the summit: Domashnyaya (2352 m) Via the route: Eastern wall of the Southern ridge Complexity category: 5A cat. sl. (proposed) By the team of Irkutsk region: Klepikov A.A., Ivanovsky A.V., Kazantseva E.V. The ascent was made on February 5, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class 2020

REPORT

On the ascent of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai and Moscow, Parfenov A.A. – Lebedev N.M. to Peak Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the Center of the NE wall, 6A (Khvostenko, 01)

I. Ascent Passport

White Peak (4700 m)

Ascent to the White Peak summit via Akgyul peak, route 2B cat. diff.

From the Talgar alpine camp through Surovyy pass to the right branch of the Korzhenevskogo glacier. Here, overnight stay. The path to the White Peak summit goes through Akgyul peak. From the overnight stay, go to the main ridge via scree. Reach the junction of the ridge with the Issykten-Chokhu spur, turn onto it and along the ridge of the spur approach the foot of Akgyul's summit dome. The ridge has several drops. To the right are ruined rocks. A snowy slope with a steepness of up to 35° leads to the summit dome. Alternate insurance is needed, and at the end of the season, when ice appears, the use of ice screws is possible (2-3 hooks). From Akgyul peak, the path goes along the ridge in a southeast direction, then along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of 40-45° and a length of up to 300 m. Crampons and screw insurance are needed. The slope leads to a saddle between Akgyul and White Peak. From the saddle, along a snow-ice ridge with a length of up to 2.5 km. Crevasses are encountered. Insurance is needed. In 2-2.5 hours, the foot of White Peak is reached. The ascent to the summit is along a snowy slope up to 30°. To the left are snowdrifts and cornices. Deviate to the right. In an hour, the summit is reached. A cairn is on the rocks. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the bivouac takes 8-10 hours. Return to the camp via Surovyy pass.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants - up to 25 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the right branch of the Korzhenevskogo glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac no later than 5:00.

Overview

Peak Amangeldy, 1B, V. Zimin, 1937

This is probably the most frequently visited route in Tuyuk-Su. From Alpinigrad move up the slope located on the left, in the direction of the big gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left, follow the trail upwards, then traverse the talus slope, and then enter the steep couloir. In winter, it may be necessary to put on equipment already there - there may be hard sastrugi in the couloir. In summer, it's talus with rock outcrops. Climb up to the next couloir, move up it until it ends. The start of the route is on a ledge under a steep wall. R0­–R1

• Move right, exit onto a ledge
• From this ledge, climb up an inside corner (15 m II) to the next ledge
• Belay station on a protrusion

Move on to the snowy saddle between the North and main peaks of Bogatyry. The route goes along the rocks on the saddle itself. There are cornices on the eastern side (be careful!). To overcome the fourth gendarme, one should drive ice screws into the snowy slope and stretch the handrail. The fifth gendarme is overcome head-on with cutting steps on the icy slope with a steepness up to 70° when approaching its constituent rocks. The rocks are of medium difficulty and are overcome with belay. Descent from the gendarme to a small dent, then to the pre-summit rocks. The rocks of medium difficulty lead to the main peak of Bogatyry. The ascent to the summit itself goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 60° (with running belay). The descent from the main peak goes along the snowy slope with several drops. A gendarme blocking the path is overcome head-on; the rocks are of medium difficulty. Then, the path leads to the saddle between the Central and South peaks of Bogatyry. The ascent to the South peak of Bogatyry goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 45°, and the descent from it goes along the snowy slope no steeper than 40°. The descent leads to the saddle between the South peak of Bogatyry and the peak of Kolesnik, the last object of the traverse route. The peak of Kolesnik is an ice dome, above which three groups of rocks rise. The middle group is the summit. The route to the summit presents no particular difficulties. From the saddle, the ascent to the summit begins with a 100-meter snowy slope (sometimes with aufeis). Further on:

• there are easy and medium rocks of the southwestern ridge
• further to the east, there is a second rocky ridge, which is the highest point of the summit.

Тraverse of the Jамalak­tau — Di­na­mo­vets peaks, 3B cat. route. The approaches and the route to the Jамalak­tau peak are described in the section on ascents to this peak. From the Jамalak­tau peak, the descent goes down a couloir with snow and talus and leads to a destroyed ridge running in a southerly direction. At the point where the ridge turns southwest-southwest, descend from the last gendarme via an internal corner. Hook insurance required. Further along the destroyed ridge, the gendarmes are bypassed on the right. Behind the ridge is a snowy isthmus, to the left are rock formations resembling towers. Descent via a small couloir to the Tumanny Pass. Stick to the left rocks. The pass elevation is 3700 m. A convenient place to spend the night. From the peak to the pass takes 2.5–3 hours.