1. The ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations: via the center of the north wall of ZINDON 4800 m, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1089 m, average steepness — 84°
6. Number of pitons and chocks used for protection and artificial aids: rock — 334 (140), ice — 42 (2), bolt — 17 (16), chocks — 49 (37)
7. Number of climbing hours — 118
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 8 bivouacs, including:
   • sitting in a tent — 3
   • semi-reclining in a tent — 4

Ascent Passport

I. Technical class. 2. Fan Mountains. Zeravshan Range. 3. Sary-Shakh peak, 4650 m, via the right part of the North face (through the cleft) 4. 5B category of difficulty (repeat ascent) 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, length of 5th-6th category sections — 540 m, average steepness — 80 — 85° 6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 89 used to create intermediate belays — 17, bolted pitons — 2, used cams, stoppers — 46 7. Number of climbing hours — 25 hours 8. Number of bivouacs — 2

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area — Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains. 3. Pik Severny, height 4200 m, ascent via the eastern wall. 4. Presumed difficulty category (third "B" cat. diff.). 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 185 m; length of sections with 3–4 difficulty grade — 85 m, average steepness — 60° 6. 20 rock pitons hammered in, one of them for ITO (Instrumental Technical Equipment). 7. Total hours of climbing — six hours 8. Number of overnight stays — no overnight stays.

Ascent to the summit of Pila (4600 m) 25 c.d. SC

via the northwest ridge The summit of Pila, 4600 m high, is located in a ridge running north of the Lupdon pass. The route along the ridge is almost entirely rocky. There are very small sections of firn. The ridge is sharp, rocky, and consists of a series of pronounced "mandarins." The summit had remained unconquered until recently.

Descent after ascent

The group left the base camp at 12:00, heading towards the Lupdon pass. The approach to the pass takes 3 hours. Before reaching the pass point, we turn left. From there, the ascent begins via a wide, scree-filled couloir. The steepness of the couloir is 30°. The snow is hard and compacted in the lower part, and very loose and fine in the upper part of the couloir. The couloir ends at the ridge. The ascent via the couloir takes 3 hours. At the pass point on the ridge, we find a cairn. A note from climbers from "Varzob" camp is retrieved. Elevation: 4200 m. We set up a night's stay. At 7:00, we start on the route. Along a gentle snow slope, we reach the beginning of the local ridge leading to the summit in 10 minutes. The start of the route is very monolithic - rocks with convenient handholds. Two ropes along moderately difficult rocks - and we're on the ridge. Belay via outcrops. Just below the ridge, to the left of it, we advance another two ropes. We climb in turns with belay via outcrops. With top rope, we descend 10 m down a large rock (1 piton), and then back up to the sharp ridge. The ascent along the ridge at this point is only possible by crawling (20 m, 2 pitons). Careful belay is necessary. To the left and right - sheer walls. Further along the ridge, several rocks lead to "mandarin" #1. The "mandarin" should be bypassed from the right. Here, there's a long (40 m) inclined ledge, above which rocks overhang. Movement is only possible while crouching, and in some places - crawling. 3 pitons are hammered in at this section.

Report

on the first traverse of the peak Skalnaya Stena from west to east with an exit to the ridge along the counterfort of the southern wall from the Dvoynoy pass, category 5A (approximately) in the account of the Volga Region mountaineering championship. August 1-2, 1968, Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay.

I. Characteristics of the Area

Between the Gissar and Zeravshan ridges of the Pamir-Alay rises a cluster of short but high ridges - the Fan Mountains. The main ridge of the Fan range stretches from west to east in a continuous arc, convex to the south. It is intersected by two indistinctly expressed meridional ridges:

• the western one - with the Laudan pass (in the north) and the Dukdan pass (in the south);
• the eastern one - from the Pasrud River (in the north) to Lake Iskanderkul. At the intersections of these ridges are the highest peaks of the range - Chimtarga (5487 m) - the main peak of the area, located in the western node, and Big Ganiza (5415 m) - in the eastern node. The main ridges of the Fan range are composed of metamorphosed limestones, lying in thick strata. The weathered rocks of the peaks are very brittle. Rockfalls are a constant phenomenon in the Fan Mountains. The forms of rock weathering often have a superficial, pockmarked character. Such rock sections are very convenient to pass in rubber boots.

Simultaneously: from the re-roping point, move towards the summit along a small snow patch (1.5–2 ropes) to reach the base of the rocky ascent. Climb monolithic boulders and the frozen crack beneath it to the summit of the rocky ascent. Then, traverse the ridge, during which the first mandarin is bypassed on the left through rocks, a snow patch, and a slab with a crack (2 ropes, difficult climbing). Then, exit to the 4th mandarin (1 rope) on a crack on the left, and from it, descend 10 m under the wall of the summit tower. Ascent up the wall through a snowy-icy inner corner:

• straight up 15 m,
• hook belay. Then, exit left to a platform. From it, move right along a vaguely defined snowy gully (steepness 50°) — 45 m (belay through protrusions). Exit right to a platform, and from it — to a snowy-icy slope with a steepness of 50° (1.5 ropes) and further along slopes of medium difficulty (15 m) — to the ridge. Along the ridge for 30 m, then:
• 10 m up the wall,
• move left — up (25–30 m) along the left side of the wall (hook belay),
• another 10 m ascent through snow — and exit to the summit. The entire route takes 9–10 hours. Descent is via the couloir; ascent is up the wall, then down the couloir. In the upper part of the couloir, there is ice (2 ropes).

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1973 Class of ascent technically complex Region of ascent Pamir Matinsky mountain gorge Ascent route: Kshemysh (5300 m) via the north face Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1700 m, average steepness 80°. Length of complex sections 1700 m (height difference 1610 m, steepness 84%). Number of pitons: rock 209, ice 22, bolted 1 Number of climbing hours: 76 h Number of bivouacs: five (without rest day) and in them: lying 1, sitting 4 Team name:

1. Solonnikov Viktor Aleksandrovich — MS, captain, coach
2. Antonov Dmitry Igorevich, MS, participant

Ascent Passport

1. Class: Technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
3. Ascent object: peak AkSu Northern
4. Complexity category: 6B cat. (approximately), first ascent.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 1200 m,
   • length of sections: 6 c.t. 900 m, 5 c.t. 400 m,
   • average steepness: 70 degrees.

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak gorge area
3. Peak A. Blok, 5239 m, via the Southwest Ridge
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Elevation gain 800 m, length 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 diff. cat. — 300 m
6. Pitons hammered: rock: 44/30; bolted: 5; chocks: 71/47; ice: 15. Previously hammered pitons used: 0.
7. Team's travel hours — 21 hours, days — 4

I. Category — technical 2. Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, Leylyak gorge 3. Peak 4541 via the Eastern ridge 4. Assumed 46 40 category first ascent 5. Height difference 850 m. Total length 1480 m. Length of sections IV — 450 m 6. Average slope of the route 60° 7. Average slope of the key section 75° 8. 65 pitons driven Of which 23 for organization of reception areas 9. Climbing hours — 12